First picture looks good, second shows it is off by one tooth.

 

it's hard to show but both marks are one tooth off, clockwise. Could one tooth cause the car to run like that?
and there's is too much slack in the belt as well

 

Yes it will run badly when one tooth off. Put on your new belt and try it. You may not want to R&R water pump until you are sure the engine is OK.

 

So I just finished up on the timing belt, it was definitely off by at least one tooth and the tension was very loose. I didnt get a chance to fire it up today though but I spun the crank 6 times and checked and then repeated once I buttoned up the timing cover.



kinda wierd angle but the timing mark is even with the timing cover.

these are before just to make that clear

 

So I finished buttoning everything up and went to start it and it fires up but dies right away and started fuming out of the exhaust manifold, I pull the cover and a huge crack all the way through


I didn't tried adjusting the distributor I just started it twice and it died right away twice.
would this cause the car to die?

 

I've had the same thing happen to my 1st civic. It was a 99 ex and it slowly died out when I tried to go up a hill. I sold it to my friend and he opened it up and found a blown head gasket. The guy who stole it maybe has driven it hard trying to get away?

 

The cracked manifold wouldn't impair running very much. Something else is still wrong. Did you tension the new belt properly and tighten down the tensioner? Check that it didn't skip.

 

Yes, I turned the crank six times rechecked timing and tightened the tensionor. I checked the timing after I started it both times and it was on.

the manifold didn't smoke before though and the muffler didn't have pressure before as well. I would be able to plug it with my hand and the car would keep running. So it seems like there's better pressure now

 

Could my distributor be so far off it dies

 

Unlikely.

So you are saying that now it will always start, run a few seconds, then stall? And you can do that repeatedly? The thing to look for there would be to see if the oil and battery lights on the dash come on after it stalls. If they do not, it is probably losing power from the ignition key switch. If they do, put a test jumper in and see if any ECU codes are set.

 

I'll go try starting it a couple times but it started right after it stalled the first time. And I have obd scanner and got no codes, but I had 61 and 64 for the abs but don't think that's the problem.

 

Alright so it starts up time and time again and stalls immediately. And dash lights come on right when it stalls. But if I floor it when I start it, it stays running. And no ecu lights but the abs light stayed on when it was running for 3 seconds.

 

So I decided to redo the timing again today and had the same results. Car would die upon starting. But I found that if I held the key in start for 2-3 seconds it would stay running barely with a violent engine shake. And at full throttle most of the shake goes away but again car will not rev above 1000 rpms and after about 20 seconds at wot it starts to slowly drop down. I gonna try and get a spare fuel hose to rig up a fuel pressure gauge from the fuel filter to rail. And get a use set of injectors.






if u can find a junkyard civic with keys in it I'm gonna buy that. I was looking for damage on the ignition harness and found 2 wires with the insulation cut and taped up, black/yellow and white and a third wire with a but connector. And I noticed about half the fuses in the under dash fuse box are the wrong amp rating.

 

have you checked your distributor? specifically icm.

 

using this I tested my icm and had voltage on the white/blue and black/yellow with the key on (II) but nothing on the yellow green wire.

and no continuity from the blue wire to the housing

 

I read a different how to that said to leave all the wires hooked up to the icm. So after I did that test I have 6.15 volts on the yellow green wire and battery voltage on the black/yellow and the white/blue wires

 

coil is the weakest link but icm is up there as well.
i carry spares for both. you will need both eventually
so i dont consider that falling into the throwing parts
at it category. went with the honda coil from amazon for $75
but the $20 richporter unit is a good cheapo choice.
airtex icm from rockauto is pretty solid too.

 

icm will do the fire and die trick. there isn't a reliable bench test for them, take it to a parts store... most have testers for them

 

so with a used icm and coil out of a what looked to be new distributor. The car has not changed. I know this doesn't rule those out cause of the used condition but I can't buy new until friday

 

Let's review. With the timing belt on right, you're saying now it can start and rev high, but it will stall if you let off of the gas? If it is not that way, exactly what is it doing now?

 

same situation as before the timing belt. It won't rev over 1000rpm. The engine barely starts and most of the time won't unless you give it gas, and it still shakes violently while running and it smooths out a little at wot. But it's slow to climb rpms and still won't go over 1000rpm even held at wot