Ok so 1st, thanks for the replies fellas I appreciate the help.
And 2nd, the pictures.... unfortunately I took little to no pics during this endeavor and I do apologize for neglecting this thread, but as I'm sure many of you know, everything takes twice as long while trying to record it. Whether by photo or video it's just time consuming! And this time around, time was not a luxury I had to spare. So I did take a few, but nowhere near as many as I should have, so I'll give yall what I got.
Oh and before yall start flaming me for my welds, plz keep in mind these are the very first TIG welds I've ever done.... There was literally not a SINGLE practice bead laid prior to welding this manifold; so I was actually learning to do this, as I was fabbing this thing up. So try be gentle fkrs! Also, thought I should mention that ALL the cut work was done with a 4.5in angle grinder and the rest was done with a belt-sander and die-grinder. And on my 1st noobish attempt to weld up my V-band flange to the DP, I didn't realize I was supposed to mate it to the turbine housing!?... so it warped all to hell and I wound up having to cut it off and resurface it using the old 3/4in thick glass table and sandpaper, trick before welding it back onto the DP. I also cut/fab'd all of my own gaskets (except for the actual manifold to head) from thin copper sheet that I picked up at the local hardware store. Anyway... here's the pics I got:
This is what you get when you rebuild a turbo but DON'T get it properly balanced. I'd say not even 10k miles and the bearings and seals were shot due to the excessive vibrations. And I'm sure the manifold, and back-pressure created by the recirc'd dumptube, didn't help matters AT ALL.
This is the 5857 after returning from Boostlab Inc...
They do phenomenal work!
Just like new...

First cuts for the merge section...
These are the first TIG welds I ever did... and it's sitting on my homebrewed welding table.
Getting ready to mock up the dumptube...
And here you can see where the alternator was making contact with the old DP causing the connector to melt and screw up the voltage regulator. The new setup gives me at least 4-5in of clearance but I still intend to fab up a heat shield for the alt.
New dumptube welded up and behind the manifold it's welded to a short run of flex-tube which dumps between the front crossmember and the oil-pan.
Another angle...
and an overhead shot....
And here it is all buttoned up. Yes I know it looks like absolute ****, and I know there's a TON of work to be done yet but it is a work in progress. Right now functionality and performance are the priorities... the aesthetics will be next. For instance all of the rusty hardware and brackets! EEeeeewwwwww!!!!

Yea so the new changes have worked out well and I'm now in the process of getting the tune sorted out, with some help from a new friend. I'll keep you all posted and hopefully by the end of summer I'll have it back on the dyno so I can update yall on the power figures!

 

Awesome job man. It's way different than all the pictures you sent me last year

 

Thanks Jav.... Yea a bunch a stuffs been changed since then. I finally built some half decent catch tanks and properly routed them through the VC. And Obviously the new manifold, downpipe, and WG dumptube. Once I get my TIG welding skills up I plan on fabbing/selling custom turbo manifolds for the F-series and the CD chassis in particular; since, at the moment, it's so difficult to find any decent manifolds for the F22a/b and F23. And when you actually do find one, these guys are trying to sell them at such absurd prices that it winds up not being worth it!? I plan on doing custom Sch.10 SS manifolds with or without ceramic coatings in the sub $500 range. And I'd like to do some K-series manifolds also. That one you see in the pics above is actually Sch.40 mild steel which I was planning to ceramic coat but ran out of time. At some point I do plan to pull it and have it coated or I may just build another one out of SS and swap it out..? One thing I know for sure, although it hasn't been back on the dyno yet, is that the power comes in MUCH more linear now than it did with that flea-bay log manifold I was running and that's a HUGE improvement imo. Before the new manifold the boost would come on as if I were using a meth-injection or N2O button! In other words, Super sketchy! And it wasn't befitting of a low compression/high boost setup like mine, because one minute you'd have little to no power and then all of the sudden ALL of the power all at once! In a fwd car, there was NOTHING good about that. Anyway, I appreciate the compliments bro. I do plan to redo the engine bay hardware, and just try to clean it up in general, because right now it just looks like absolute POOP. I think I'm gonna start by relocating the front battery, sinceI already have one in the trunk, and that should free up a ton of space. Then I'd like to delete some more unnecessary systems like abs/brake booster/egr system (just above the abs)/etc... power steering maybe? Reroute some of the IC/intake piping, get some higher quality heat-shielding. And possibly WAY down the road a wire tuck and bay-shave? Idk man? There's so much I want to do, you know? But it really comes down to time and money. Oh!... one thing I'm doing for SURE, is fabbing up a tubular front cross-member for this thing! It would help tremendously with clearances and I think it'd be a fun challenge/project too. So a bit more research and I'll get it spec'd out and start working on that. I'll try to document whatever it is I decide to do on this thing next as best I can.... as I know I've been slacking off on that considerably. I've also had a full Stillen lip/body kit sitting in my garage for nearly 4yrs now waiting to go on this car and I just haven't taken the time to give my suspension setup some love!? So that may be in the cards for her this year too? We'll have to see how things play out? I did pick up some pretty tough 17x9 SP1 Professor knock-offs at an UNBELIEVABLE price a few months ago and I've been debating wrapping them in some fresh rubber and putting them on with the Stillen kit...? I'm just not sure if I even want to keep them? I'm not a wheel snob by any means, but they are a bit on the heavy side, so I'm not sure if they're really what I want? And 17's might be a little small still for the Stillen kit? 18x9's would be ideal but finding those in a 4-lug pattern is like trying to find an honest politician. Not to mention expensive but then again any decent set of wheels usually is anyway. Idk man?...decisions... decisions.... lol

Here's a sneak peek of those wheels:



And for anyone that may not be familiar with the Stillen lip kits for the CD chassis; just check out the, now rather infamous, "FindingNimo Accord". He basically set the bar... for wheels, suspension, body kits, grills, and just overall aesthetics period, on the CD chassis. Anyway, point is, if you've never seen or heard of the Stillen front lip for the 5th gen Accord, Google: "FindingNimo Accord" and you'll see one in all it's glory. lol!

 

Also just want to mention that I edited post #49 to include the pictures that I apparently never uploaded!?... what a moron. Yea apparently I wrote this long post and then forgot to UL all the pics that went with!? The post is nearly 6mos old but it was from when I did the steering wheel mod/swap so if any of you are interested the pics are there now and the post is on page 2. It was a pretty cool little mod and it's definitely unique in that Idk of anyone else running that particular steering wheel in a 5th gen Accord. And it taught me quite a bit about steering wheels and just how easily you can swap them in/out if you don't want to go the quick-release route. Or even if you do, just knowing exactly what's going on back there behind the wheel and column cover gives you a much better understanding of what's possible and what it takes to do those types of mods. Anyway, if you're interested check it out!

 

Okay so quick update, I finally got a chance, and the funds, to sneak back onto the dyno this week. Now before I continue, this probably would not have been possible without a boat load of help from another member here on
H-T, whom I'll keep anonymous (unless he decides otherwise), but he knows who he is and just how grateful I am... Thank you good sir, because without your assistance I probably never even would've made it down the road let alone through the 2hr drive to the dyno.

So.... here are the results of the new manifold + open dump setup:​​​​​​​


The thin red line is the old curve with the log manifold at the same boost pressure.
And here the thin Gr+Bl lines signify the old curve... nearly 60hp difference! And spool-up is practically identical.

 

Nice work on the manifold. I figured that the more equal length tube style manifold would be much better than the old log. Didn't think it would make that much difference though.

 

Well done.

I used a highway loop turning around at opposing oasis's oasii whatever. Doing night pulls in 2 nd and some of third while dataloging. Then I stop to make changes to the map, flash, loop around and continue test driving.
That looks like it works much better.

 

I KNOW Right!!!??? I was pretty shocked myself Ghost but from what I've gathered it's a combination of running the open-dump WG and having a proper collector that make all the difference. According to all of the research I've done, the implementation of a proper collector will effect exhaust gas flow tremendously vs the use of a cast log, or even a tubular log, style manifold. And that combined with the WG changes has given me much more exhaust flow, and much less back pressure. The open-dump alone has effectively added another 1.5" of downpipe diameter to the entire setup. Plus, in the old setup, the WG was re-circ'd right at the turbo outlet... it was TERRIBLE at best and dumping directly into the turbo outlet at worst. I can only imagine the amount of back-pressure and turbulence it was creating while in boost!? It was a horrendous design and even worse planning on my part, but I did learn a lot along the way. I knew going into the original setup, that it was by no means permanent, but I needed the car back on the road so I had to work within the confines of my schedule and budget to make it work for the time being. At this point I'm pretty happy with the builds functionality but of course I would like to see how she does with this fueling issue sorted out?... and then, hopefully, be able to move on to the aesthetics.

 

Thanks....... I think?

 

I'm sure most of you have already heard about the latest iteration of Accord coming out of Japan, but for those of you that haven't check this out:

The 10th-generation Accord will ditch the V-6 available in its predecessors, opting instead for a 2.0-liter turbocharged, direct-injected, dual overhead cam i-VTEC four-cylinder as its top power producer. Forged connecting rods, a forged crankshaft, improved cylinder head and block water pathways, and sodium-filled exhaust valves give the 2.0-liter additional durability and power capability. A 1.5-liter turbo-four (essentially the same engine available in the latest Civic) will also be offered, as well as a two-motor hybrid. Both turbo-fours will be offered with a choice of a six-speed manual transmission or an all-new, Honda-developed 10-speed automatic transmission. The 10-speed auto is capable of transmitting 20 percent more torque than the outgoing six-speed auto, but weighs 10 percent less. The two-motor hybrid needs no transmission thanks to its unique design. (read the full article here: http://www.automobilemag.com/news/sa...ew-powertrain/ )
Honda also released an animation detailing the powertrain and trans in the 10th Gen Accord that can be seen here:
All's I can say is... W-O-W! OEM forged internals?... in a sedan!? I mean I know it's boosted and all but W-O-W! I can't wait to see what the aftermarket/modifiers do with this engine...? Anyway, I just thought I'd share

 

Funny that they can put all the "Tech" into their street engines but are about to loose McLaren as a ride in F1 because they can't produce a turbo engine that can perform consistently with the big boys. Honda tech seems to have gone the way of the Dodo lately. They past VCM V6 engines are plagued with fouling and oil consumption issues. The reason for dropping htem and going with the boosted 4cylinder is for EPA ratings. I love Honda but they seem to be going backwards when it comes to tech. they used to be on the leading edge, now they are just trying to keep up!

 

Yea I havent been following lately but my father's a HUGE F1 guy and he was telling me they've been having some MAJOR issues this year... I think too that the long awaited NSX's lackluster performance said a lot about the direction the Honda engineers have gone. But with that said seeing things like this ^^^ gave me some hope...? lol

 

Yeah but It's sad really. That they are merely following the "EPA" regulations and not actually putting out what they could be. The retail automotive industry is really embarrassing these days. The tech that they used to put into cars was amazing. Just look at the specs for the 1975 CVCC (Civic) That F#@king thing was carbureted and it was getting 40MPG (5.9L/100Km) highway using unleaded fuel back then...... Why it take them so long to get real tech to the streets these days..... EPA and the all mighty dollar!

 

^^^^TRUTH^^^^

 

Alright, finally I'm on bigger wheels and tires. And now some new issues are appearing... Long story short, I think my car was in a front-end-collision at some point. Wheel specs are 17x9 +20 squared. And I'm getting slight rubbage inside the driver's side wheel well only at full lock L+R. Nowhere else, unless I'm flying and I hit a decent sized dip in the road, but overall no other rubbing. So I start taking measurements all around the front suspension to frame locations and on the driver's side, from center nut (axle nut) to the beginning of the frame rail, it's .75" difference from the passenger side. I also tried measuring from the LCA bushing to the same frame rail and the measurements nearly identical approx. .75" closer on the driver's side. So either the radius rod on the passenger side is bent and pulling the wheel fwd or the driver's side is bent somewhere and it's pushed back? ANy ideas what to do from here?.. how to find the OEM geometry specs?.. And or how to go about fixing this? I mean I've seen guys fix ish like this on drift cars using hydraulic jacks and pry bars but I'm not sure which side I should even be bending? Plz lmk what yall think? Thx in advance

 

Using a +20 wheel? Wow. Mine are +45 front and +40 rear. Yours must come out a lot past the fenders.

 

Actually I was really surprised by how little they stick out!? The wheels I just took off the car were 16x8 +15 and they stuck out just as much it seems like...? But yea with the natural camber of the suspension I didn't even have to pull or roll anything! They slide right up into the wheel wells with no clearance issues at all. Well, aside from this driver's side thing I'm going through. Which btw turns out is being caused by a bent LCA mount. Right where the LCA bolts onto the subframe (I think that's what it's called?) it's bent back towards the cabin of the car! So much so that it actually cracked and you can clearly see where someone (amateur at best) tried to weld it back together! What sucks is that the rack+pinion are also connected to this thing, plus God knows what else, and I'm just not sure if this is the kind of part I'm going to be able to yank from the U-Pull-It yard with basic hand tools?!

 

I had +38 XXR on mine at one time and they scraped the fender all the time. I tried the rear +40 on the front just to see if they would work and they scraped if I was not careful. Of course we have some pretty bad roads here, especially where you turn into a driveway or parking lot or side street.

 

I'm with you on the crappy roads (I live in northeastern PA) but I'm curious what we've done differently?... what size tires were you running and were you rubbing on the inner or outer side of them? I was anticipating having rubbing issues so I got semi-small tires for the rim size (215/45/17), maybe that has something to do with it? And my car isn't extremely "slammed" either, it's lowered don't get me wrong, but nothing like what you see a lot of ppl doing these days. I'll post a pic up in a min

 

I need a set of decent coilovers so I can really dial in the ride height but I'm still trying to find something I can afford.

 

I run 215/45/17 on the front with +45 offset, and 225/45/17 on the rear with a +40 offset. I would like to run 225's all the way around but I don't think the fronts will work. I had to raise the front a little, but mostly because the spoiler drug every time I pulled out of a parking lot. Yours really doesn't look much different than mine. I admit I don't understand what the difference is.

 

You might be lower then me?.... are you on coilovers? I wound up just getting some crappy lowering springs and then after installing my system I had to put the oem springs back on the rear because it was sagging WAYYYY too low. So now I've got like 2in lowering springs in the front and oem springs in the rear but I really want to pick up some fully adjustable coilovers like FF1's or FF2's. And yea I'm the same as you, I don't completely understand the difference why mine don't rub but your's do? I can only assume you may be a bit lower?

 

Don't get functions. Not 100% sure about Type 2s but Type 1s ride like ****. Go Koni yellow/ground control setup or if you must have some one pieces look into some D2s or KSports. Spring rate and suspension travel are gonna be paramount to ride comfort. Too stiff and you're gonna get beat up all the time. Not good for a daily. Too soft and you won't be getting the performance you want. It's about finding a balance for the intended purpose of the car. You can order ground controls with whatever spring rates you want. You want stiffer in the front and softer in the rear. I run 10k front 8k rear with KYB AGX(the red adjustable performance shocks) and it's great for the street on 75% stiffness with about 1" left of lowering headroom.

 

Mine does look a little lower than yours. Mine is about 1.5 front and rear. I used stiff rear springs because I sometimes carry a lot of stuff in the trunk when I travel. When the pic above was taken I was on the way to Tenn. and the car was loaded. My big problem is the front tire contacting the fender when I am turning into a drive. With the setup I have now, there is rarely any contact. Unless I hit a pothole when turning.

 

Nice numbers! I'd love to go FI one day but I doubt that will ever happen.