Guys, would any of you be interested in purchasing 3d printed centercaps for the 15" Enkei rpf1?

I know no one makes a cap for this wheel so I am designing one that'll for and clear the axlenut/hub

I will make a set when this green material I ordered arrives

 

This came out really nice, feels lighter and gives the rear view a much cleaner sleek look. Looks like it's just floating.
I am very pleased.
If anyone wants one pm me.

 

Here's my rpf1 centercap design. I used a blue/gray filament. I was a little disappointed that it looked too blue, but in the light it takes on a gray hue. Matches the stem that Enkei supplies. My design is concave and has room to use hub rings
Fit is tight and my next one needs a little tweaking.
But overall pleased.



I can make these bulbous or flat faced as well, so pm me if you' like to order a set.

 

2nd version is getting very close.
Trying to get a snug fit is hard.
Seems a little post dremel work is inevitible.

Really like how you can't tell it's concave until you really look closely.
kind of like an easter egg.

Would be interesting to see how it would look in Silver or any other color.

 

A proper set of calipers would get you in the ballpark of a few thousandths and you'd get a decently snug fit.

Also, if you design a sort of clip (think like an OEM center cap) to hold the cap in place you'd also be able to have a wee bit more leeway in how snug of a fit you need. (think needing a .005" tolerance versus a .020" tolerance)

 

I have a set of venier calipers. But iI couldn't get it to fit n the wheel well to measure the bore.
But I got it to where I want it, and only need to sand a lil bit to get a really snug fit.
I don't like the potrusion effect of oe centercaps, and the rpf1 have no lip to hold them flush with the surface so my design is held in only by friction from the hub bore and outer bore.
The hub bore is ~ 72.95 mm and the centercap bore is ~ 62.55 mm


Another issue is the 3d print setting. I had to use a very fine setting of .16 mm to get it to print to an accurate dimension.


I mounted a wheel yesterday and there is interference with the hub, about 2 mm. The caps have only a honeycomb infill(basically hollow). so they were able to flex.

End result is my concave cap turned into a flat one.

I dont know if this will happen on the front wheel as well. I will try one out today, as well as modifying the design so it's shelled on the inside.

Blueish grey looks good ?

 

The bluish grey does match your lug nuts better than the black.

Black with a stenciled enkei logo would look good. Otherwise the black just looks like no cap.

 

Well it was suppose to be more gray, but it's blue dominant really.
I agree the black would just look like there's no cap and I think a silver or light gray would look odd because it would not be an exact match.

 

I made a flat face centercap, in black. Since it's flat, I can shell it and print it upside down with minimal support material. And the axlenut and hub do not touch . I made it 2 mm thick walls and it's plenty strong. a 1.75 mm thin wall should be sufficient and give little more clearance.
The black actually looks very sharp, and I might make a full set and make a stencel with some heavy stock and paint a logo on it in white paint.
What logo should I use? the
Enkei letters offset to the side, in the middle?
Enkei infinty symbol centered?
Honda H?
Or maybe my own logo?

 

man looks good. wonder how it would look in my ef sedan hehe

 

Your center cap project is an interesting one, and hats off to you, but you do know that knock off caps from Home Depot work and fit well?


I had some powdercoated to match. As such, I don't really see much of a market for your versions, but you never know.

 

Cool, thanks, it had an issue though. The plastic I used and t's location was too hot and it warps.
I will have to use a harder plastic. Also, because it's so light weight in comparison to the original, it vibrates a lot more than the original, with my 75 A mounts. Otherwise it works well. I have modified the design so when you mount the broadwy mirror it sits higher and covers that lil 8 mm stem that's exposed on the arm
I'm aware of all the available options, but it looks like a cap from Home depot imo.

I'm going to pirnt out this design to see if my printer can make the logo and I will fill it in with paint after

 

PSA! !!

I was getting such bad vibes with my 75a mounts that I removed them all except the driver because my oe mount is busted.
Even with that one mount the vibs were really bad. I
I ran across this in my manual and I was a bit skeptical but I did it annd it helped tremendously. I will re-install the other 75a mounts and see whats up.

Basically you torque everything minus the mount through bolts, set rthe car on the ground and torque them in that numbered sequence.

Probably relieves the tension or something.
Explains the variation of experience people have with these.


edit: vibs are really not bad. It's just the drone that transfers too much into the cabin.

 

I repeated the sequencing technique. I bought a locking washer for the transmission mount.
Because the innovative ships with a nut and bolt where the oe has a stud and I was having trouble torquing that nut. So torqued that one down.
Set the car on level ground, rocked the steering wheel a bit and shifted into all the gears, put in in neutral and then torqued them mount through bolts in that sequence rr, fr, lft, rgt and my drone is completely gone. The vibs are still there. Not anywhere near as harsh. but it's tolerable now. Shame because I ordered a new oem mount, but I guess I'll have it as spare.

By the way I 3d printed a shift **** and I was skeptical if it would feel good or not. But it feels amazing.
I printed it almost completely hollow, so it's very VERY light weight. but my 75a bushings and es shifter bushings means I need very little effort to select gears, and thus a weighted shift **** is unneccesary. I finally understand that riffle bolt idiom. A weighted **** for me would just require me to muscle it in. I'ts literally a fingerflick to shift now.

I got a little overzealous with my speeds and I tried using a cooling fan so it kind of warped. Also I set the wall thickness to thin and the top portion caved in.
It has this grippy but not sticky texture thanks to the layers, and it doesn't get hot. I'm going to order some white filament to re-print it.


It's re-imagined version of the Mugen f1 ****. I deleted the ridges and smoothed out the sharp edges.

I have designed three other ***** that I'm going to be selling; a tear drop shape, a re-imagined type R ****( just slightly different shaped, edges not as rough), my mugen remix and of course a classic ball.

Though printing the ball shape one will be a challenge.

 

You can figure out which is which right?
ball is 53 mm diameter, type r remix is 54 mm high i believe I made it.
The mugen remix is 84 mm high and the teardrop is 85.









You need a lock washer here(shiny bolt that replaces stud) and a spacer on this side. slightly dremeled 3 mm thick washer from HD, product code: ALC

 

good work

 

Don't buy Anchor motor mount

Will not fit, even if you cut the nut off and enlarge the holes

 

Looks like your hole spacing is off.

I'd measure the stud spacing center to center (of the studs) and then measure the hole spacing. Measure the diameter of one hole, measure from the outside edge of one hole to the outside of the other, then subtract the diameter of one hole, this will give you an approximate center to center measurement of the hole spacing.


Use your calipers for this, it's easier and more accurate.

 

The though bolt for the mount is too far off. The rust colored section is where the old mount sat, If I cut more so it can shift left, then I'm cutting out the reinforcement stud out.

 

Why is the spacing wrong? That's what you should figure out so you can get it replaced by the vendor.

 

Well comparing it to the oe one I had the top hole is too far to the left.
The bottom hole is too far left and too far down
But even though I got the bolts in, the main bushing hole is too much to the right, when the oe has it almost in the middle of the hole. This one actually has it left
Like this
OE ( o )
Anchor (o )
friggin weird

 

It's probably the wrong mount, that's why.

 

there's only one mount for that whole era of d series engine. It's just made wrong.

Of course it's not O.E. quality, but dang.

 

Sold my first 3d print, wanted then to pick the green apple but they chose the blueberry color.
Was anxious to see the green color. Really vibrant but I don't know what to use it for really.


I named the colors myself
They're really just labeled black blue etc etc but I thought it'd be clever marketing to give 'em cool names
Still undecided on the green and white names

Left to right
Onyx, Blackberry, Blueberry. Green apple, Pearl

edit:
Finished product came out nice