Yea

 

ah ah ah

you ain't in GDD

You better be nice

 

hey do you know this?

 

This is what I wanna do on the front
Nothing to big


s-l1600 by [ai]van, on Flickr

On the rear theres this ridge, remove it ? polish

I read that ridge is intentional to prevent air from flowing backwards.

 

you see that lil bevel right there?
What is it for?



I think it suppose to prevent back flow of aair, like this
By creating little venturis that keep the flow of air in that direction

Untitled by (ai), on Flickr

But the skuunk2 and others dont follow it
see.


Anyway my inlet is gonna probaly look like this
tapered

 

nice

 

I would bet that Honda put a bit more R&D in a throttle body then Skunk2 did.

What about getting a B16 or even a B18B throttle body? B16 is 58mm and B18B is 60mm.

 

d-you just skip everything?
d16a6 Throttle bodies only work with d16a6, d16a1, 1988-1989 sohc and dohc zc manifolds

1986-1987 accord, integra and preludes as well. except the tps on these is different. But they can be switched out for the newer version

Basically, they're all the same, a "GF" stamp on top.
A d15b7 manifold looks very similar to a d16a6 and accepts b series throttle bodies but idunno if the manifold support bracket lines up.

 

If the manifold is larger than the outlet, I'll remove the lip, if not I'll leave it

 

I figured out what that lip is for. GM and chrysler throttle bodies have it, it's just to seal the butterfly.
general mass produced castings, too expensive to go in and smooth out that lip on a throttle body over a superficial gain.

So I'll blend it in as planned.
Sill cant find an oe throttle body though

 

This is what I decided to do. A bigger throttle body increases volume, but on a stock NA engine with no aggressive need or ability to pull in larger amounts of air. You lose velocity and that means low end torque and HP because it wont be pulling larger amounts of air until at speed.


So, I know my Manifold is ~ 56 mm and the throttle body is ~56 mm at the rear. And this was the best option for me.(Because I didnt want to have my manifold port matched to a straight through 59 mm TB

I made my opening to 59 mm and tapered it so it transitions smoothly to the oe spec.
This creates a venturi effect which increases air velocity. Which means at low speed you'll get more air because the design will help push air in faster. Perfect for a stock spec engine.
I also made a TB spacer simply by making another thermal gasket out of cutting board, I had to back out the oe studs to get it to bolt on however. This creates a thermal barrier and also increases plenum volume. Which I believe means there is just more air available and less chance for cylinders to be starved of oxygen.

I got to start it and there is a noticeable change in sound, but who knows if this means a gain.

I won't get to see until tommorrow.

You can't tell from the photos, but the TB has a slight bevel, like a velocity stack

I know you can bore this one to 59 mm, so I took a sharpie and ruler and marked it than shaved away the marked areas to get an even 59 mm.
Then tapered it, then drum sanded with about a 120 grit, then a 200. then by hand with 400 and 600.
I didn't polish it
I tried to make kind of a bevel on the lip like a velocity stack.

Measurements are 59 mm tapers to about 55/56 and opens at the rear to 56/57 to match the manifold at 57


_MG_9836 by (ai), on Flickr
Then I removed the tape and put coton ball in the iacv hole and taped closer to the butter fly and hit it with 600 grit to get an even smoother transition to the center. which is ~ 56 mm
Put my TB spacer on as well, had to back out the oe studs to get it to bolt on though/


_MG_9834 by (ai), on Flickr

At some angles it looks gouged but I sanded i all the way don to 600 grit and it so slick. Not sure why it looks that way
Probably the lighting


_MG_9842 by (ai), on Flickr


Another angle(before the 600)

_MG_9835 by (ai), on Flickr


If aanyone wants, I will post pictures o the tools I used

 

Here you can see the bevel of the opening better

_MG_9830 by (ai), on Flickr

 

3d printed a version of my mugen ****
My favorite **** really, I dislike the feel of knubs and round *****

Reason I did this is because the alluminum mugen **** is cold in winter and hot as hell in summer


_MG_9851 by (ai), on Flickr

_MG_9852 by (ai), on Flickr


took my TB off and really did a nicer taper. Took my time and got the walls thin and the entry nice and beveled.

20170123_142309-2 by (ai), on Flickr

 

Why did you loop that coolant line?

Is it just an out<-in line?

 

I did the accord swap to my climate control it was cracked in every which way possible lol only took about 3 hours to connect the wires and mixer

 

Good thread.

Have you ever thought of finding a spare D16A6 with lots of miles, and building it N/A using Honda parts? I built an 11:1CR D16A6 using 1989 Integra D16A1 "P29" pistons, and a metal OEM head gasket from the 96-98 D16Y8. That set-up combined with an Si/ZC hybrid tranny walked B16A swaps all day, got good gas mileage, and ran forever on premium fuel. It wasn't an expensive build either.

I started the build in 2003 - HERE IS THAT BUILD if you're interested.

TRANS BUILD HERE

Spending time and effort on the little things like plugs, wires, TB, etc. are great, but in the end they have a very small impact on how much power you'll put down. You're capable of this build, I'm sure, and it was a ton of fun to drive it when it wad done.

 

Yea, coolant passes through the TB from the head, to the iacv and back to the block from the iacv.
I have all that bypassed from the block to the head, and I just popped that line on there to keep bugs out.
Keepst he manifold and TB cooler

Isn't the accord one vacuum controlled? My temp **** is still racked at the rear_ the part that moves the mixer) And only the crx 's use the same one.

Yea it's enticing but I have no plans for that.

 

Hey guys, for the longest time the portion of my rear cargo cover that folds down. Had a clip broken. Today I was able to make a new piece.
I can make more if anyone's interested in buying one.
I am also going to make a rear view mirror cover because mine is broken
Last photo is blurry but it worked out very well. They are the same size, only my original is bowed out so it looks shorter


3d printed one
oe one
broken one




mirror cover concept


This oil cap I will be making. Has a provision so you can insert a gasket from your old oil cap

 

You should stop interpreting and become an engineer dude.

 

you can pm me if you need something. Just pay the materials and shipping.

I have a small print bed though; 150mm cubed

And I only have black atm I'll be ordering some blue, silver, white, pink, and green soon maybe

 

Alright guys, took my mirror off to get good measurements.
And designed this and it's currently printing.



Also, I noticed how the mirror is attached to the stem and since I use a broadway mirror. I designed this piece to replace the rearview. It's lighter slimmer and hollow too so you can have a lil hidden pocket.
I don;t think I will have enough material left to print it though, but as soon as I get some I'll give it a try.

 

good news and bad, cover was coming along nice but ran out of filament around 87 percent done.
Fuu, I covered the gap with electric tape and it's on with double tape.
It's also a lil thick, the original is probably 2 mm thick and mine I designed slightly thicker for strength.


Oil cap came out nice.
It's much smaller than any other oil cap, that really stick out like a sore thumb on our small engines.
Has much less overhang.

 

Guys update.
I installed innovative steel 75a mounts
vibration was crazy at first still pretty harsh. These have two problems that need to be resolved.
1. you need a spacer on the driver side mount for the stud bolt because the innovative mount is thinner than oe. and the threads on that stud do not go down enough.
2. on the passenger side mount you need another spacer, this one for the bolt that goes through the bushing. The steel insert that they use is about 3 mm too narrow, it will pinch the bushing and cause it to bind. Causing VERY bad vibrations
Get a washer and dremel it to fit, slip it in the side closest the firewall.
3.* This one might apply only to me because I have an odd front torque mount setup. The innovative mounts were causing my front mount to bind I believe. I removed it, I'm only running the two side innovative mounts and the rear oe. mount.
I am unsure if I will install the rear innovative torque mount.


Aaaaand, I designed this for the 91 si crx to fit in the bumpers fake ducts.
I have my cold air filter located there and I believe a simple velocity stack like this could add maybe .2 hp

My 3d printer cant accomodate it but I might be able to split it and print it in two sections then glue them together post.
It's just a rough sketch not an exact fit.

I'll post pics of the mounts later

 

Here's where you need a spacer, I used a large nut, if you can you can cut out the round spacer from your oe mount.
I couldn't after trying for about 20 minutes.

where you need to insert the modded washer


one last photo of what I'm working with

 

More filament arrived today. So I printed the other 20 percent of the piece, glued 'em together.
Need quite a bit of post still to get it to fit. Mine was too long, ad that angle of that arc was wrong on mine.
I got it darn close and am happy with it.