LeeMajors19082

I've got a question for those of living in colder climates, with stock manual trannies.... What type of MTF are you using?
I seem to be having some crunchy shifts at higher rpm's, especially the 4-5 shift over 5k rpm and occasionally the 3-4 shift in the same range. Below 5k they're fine for the most part but the closer I get to redline the worse it gets and although it will eventually go into gear that 4-5 is pretty bad sometimes almost like a "shift-lock". Anyway, just curious what type of tranny fluid you guys are using?... Thx

GhostAccord

Ran AMSOil SAE10w30 100% Synthetic motor oil for 3 years +30°C to -30°C with no issues.

LeeMajors19082

I'll have to give that a try... Thx Ghost

LeeMajors19082

Okay so I'm about to build a new turbo manifold and I've been looking through a lot of boosted F-series build threads and it appears as though a LOT of guys, using custom manifolds, are simply ditching their torque mounts completely!? Is this feasible? Or am I just missing something?... Does anyone know if it's possible to run a boosted setup, or ANY setup for that matter, in this chassis and not implement a torque mount!? Thx in advance

LeeMajors19082

Okay gents, it's about to get REAL! I finally decided it was time to buy a TIG machine because the MIG just can't do the thing's I need it to anymore and since I'm planning on making a new turbo manifold it was just plain necessary. So I'm picking up a little AC/DC High-Frequency TIG welder. Also in the process of preparing to make a new manifold I found a local industrial plumbing distributor (that's willing to sell to the public) and carries some phenomenal stuff that would normally require online ordering and they offer these items at competitive prices to their online counterparts! They carry everything from the nylon reinforced silicone hose used as couplers for intercooler piping to high-presseure fuel hoses to short radius 90* butt weld fittings! This place was a GREAT find. Anyway, the welder should be here by the end of March and at that time I'll be updating this thread again with some kick-*** fab work! Also coming soon will be: new wheels, the Stillen lip kit, some interior work, AC removal, some more body work, and idk what else?.... but THERE'S more!

GhostAccord

Nice purchase...the MIG will only take you so far. I see a lot of aluminum welding in my near future..... so I'll be in the market for a HF TIG machine as well.

What one did you end up getting?

LeeMajors19082

Some "brand ******" will probably talk a bunch of ish about this decision, but I wound up going with an AlphaTIG 200x by AHP. Every review I've read says it's the best sub $1000 AC/DC HF TIG machine on the market. And most folks who've bought/used it seem to agree..? Usually they go for around $800 but if you buy from AHP (via Amazon), and they're waiting on a shipment (which they are right now btw), you can find them listed for $680!!! I paid $710 w/shipping+tax! And you get a 3yr warranty. Iirc it's: any issues within 30 days they pay shipping and anything after that you have to pick up the shipping tab. But still man 200amp AC/DC HF TIG for 710 bucks shipped!!? With a warranty!? That's SPECTACULAR Ghost! Bro if it works for 6mos it paid for itself 3 times over! I did a TON of research, I've spent the last 2mos stalking eBay and Craigslist hoping to find a Lincoln SquareWave 175 (still on my wish list btw), or a Miller DialArc 250, but I have yet to find ONE even remotely close to my price range. And the few times I did see one of those machines for less then a grand it always had one issue or another; you know, "broken this or that", or "this item needs to be replaced", etc... so for me the AlphaTIG just made the most sense. I can always upgrade later down the road when I've got some more money at my disposal, but for now this was the ticket. And I'm looking forward to fabbing just about everything I possibly can with that thing! Do a Google search on them you'll be surprised what folks are saying about them... even the "Pros" have a lot of good things to say about that machine. And they're now on their 4th or 5th revision so the latest model comes with some pretty cool features like 200hrtz pulse, flex-head 17 style torch, ball-float style gas regulator, and dinse connectors (industry standard), and those were just some of the ones that stood out to me! Sorry for the long winded reply bro but I feel like it's a good machine for a great price. And if you're in that market they're definitely worth a look.

GhostAccord

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it. I will definitely look into them. $800 would be nice. $1700-2500 is a big investment for a hobbyist...lol

LeeMajors19082

My sentiments exactly...

LeeMajors19082

This is totally off topic but do any of you guys know anything about BMW's? I'm considering buying a 1997 528i (M5 clone) to possibly turn into a fun drift car or maybe as something to repair and sell? I'm not sure yet? But the car in question is in immaculate condition (interior/exterior), with a legit set of 2-piece BBS', which I'm pretty sure covers the seller's asking price alone, which is less then $1000!?... BUT he says the cars not getting fuel at the rail. Claims it's just the fuel pump. Now a few years ago; I wouldn't have even considered a purchase like this, but nowadays I'm pretty confident in my ability to find and fix problems like these. The only qualm I really have is that it's GERMAN! AAAHHHHHHH!!!! lol! And we all know that when working on Hondas we're pretty spoiled in the sense of straight-forward, simplistic, engineering. But with many European cars they're completely and utterly OVER-engineered, and I could be wrong, but my assumption is that BMW is no different from Mercedes or Audi or even VW in that sense... So, before I jump off of this cliff I figured I'd at least ask if any of you have had any experience with BMW and more specifically any experience working on them? Do you need a bunch of specialty tools or specialty scanning equipment, like with Mercedes? Or are these cars pretty straight-forward to work on? Also being that it's a '97 I'm sure it's OBD-2 and does that add an extra level of complexity to these beyond what we'd see here with a Honda? Thx in advance fellas

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

We have owned a number over the years. The wife likes them. I prefer Honda. I have replaced two fuel pumps with MUCH less mileage on them that on my Honda's pumps. BMW uses brands like Bosch which I would not have on my Accord. When something needs replacing on the BMW I look for a Japanese brand first. The only thing I like that they use is Bilstein.

LeeMajors19082

Awesome! I agree with you in that I prefer Honda or just Japanese in general but I'm kinda getting the vibe that I'd be foolish NOT to buy this thing? Here's a few pics of the car in question, fully intact with no hugely obvious defects (short of it not running), no gigantic oil stains under it, a relatively dry engine and bay, and he's selling it at rolling shell price!!? Look at these and tell me if you think it's worth $600?





Granted, I'm buying someone else's problems, but I've got the time and resources to do the work to get this thing running. And even if I didn't have those I feel like I could part it out for more than 600 right? I mean Jesus I could probably part out a cd5 in thethe same condition for more than 600!? Idk though because I'm not at all familiar with the BMW market? So plz share with me you opinion and insight... thx I'm advance.

GhostAccord

For $600 I'd pick it up. Even if it was just to part it out!

If it ends up that replacing the engine is required, that could very well end up being a financial loss. That being said, if you are the one putting in all the work, a few dimes could be made. Just as long as it doesn't require machine work or incur any other labour costs.

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

Well worth the $600. Everyone needs a project. If you are doing it for a possible sale, then it may end up costing you more than you can get out of it. But if you want a project car, then this looks like a good starting point. I can't say that the German cars are any harder to work on than the Honda, just different.

LeeMajors19082

Thx for the reply. According to the guy selling it, he's just in a jam, doesn't have the time or money to fix it, and needs/wants to be done with it. But swears up and down that nothing's wrong with the engine or trans? So I'm gonna cross my fingers and take a shot, I mean wth right? lol!

Thx for your reply. Yea I have to agree, definitely worth the money... I looked up the wheels (BBS RC Style 5's) and those alone are going for $1500 on the low end, with no tires!? So I'm thinking, absolute worst case, I can sell those and make my money back. And I don't necessarily want to do that, cause it is a pretty kick-*** car to start with! BMW makes a hell of a straight-6 which is surely comparable to it's Japanese counterparts (1j/2j and the Rb's), right? My only real concern now, after to talking to you guys, is the cost of parts? Because I think THAT's where the real difference lies between their [BMW] engines and the Japanese engines...? So if I do decide to keep it, cause I'm surely buying it lol, and let's say build and boost it, or do a 3-400hp n/a build (if that's even possible idk?), where do you think it would land in terms of cost vs a similar Japanese engine? I'm just trying to get a bit more of an idea of what I'm in for? Thx again

LeeMajors19082

Any of you ever remove the entire dash in a cd5? Or any 94-97 Accord? I'm looking for a write up on it if possible otherwise if anyone could just shoot me few pointers that's be awesome. I'm guessing the best place to begin will be with the center console/shifter bezel and then keep working my way upward? I gotta get this damn thing outta here so I can hunt down a bum wire in my internal wire harness! It's screwing up everything! When it grounds out or whatever the he'll it's doing it's causing feedback through my sub and most notably it's making my odometer function intermittently!? It's REALLY weird? But I'll go through phases where my stereo will be fine but the odometer won't work and then, almost everytime, the feedback begins in my stereo the odometer will magically start logging miles again!? So I've finally got it narrowed down to the wiring behind the dash, which of course isn't very narrow at all, but that's where I'm at. So now I gotta pull this thing outta here in order to get good access to the harness behind it... Any suggestions? Thx in advance

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

There are probably some videos on Youtube where somebody has done this. Incidentally, when I am working on the BMW that's were I look first. Like when I changed suspension bushings. There were at least three ways of doing it, all better than the shop manual showed. The easy way worked best.

Gary_Quinlan

Thank you LeeMajors19082 for sharing your build! I have been in the process of preparing for my build for over a year ('96 Accord Coupe, F22B1). I have almost everything needed and I can't wait. Priorities keep shifting and it keeps getting pushed back...

Along the way (research... it's important) I have come across a lot of posts about the F22B1 build but they were old threads that I would probably get shunned if I tried to resurrect them (I never understand that logic, information is information, regardless of age... anyway...) by asking a question. It is pretty awesome to see that someone else is/has done what I am about to do and it wasn't 10 years ago. lol

Thanks!!

LeeMajors19082

Haha! And here I thought I was the only one who did stuff like that? I always check out YouTube before journeying into the unknown on a car, and just like you said someone sort of did a vid on the subject of the cluster. So even though it wasn't exactly what I was after it was definitely close enough to help a lot. I usually combine my (Honda) manuals/diagrams, H-T/H-S write-ups and general forum feedback, and youtube vids to figure out my car stuff, if I've never done it before, and I've been pretty damn successful thus far! Thx for the suggestion Fitz.

I did wind up tearing into lastnight and within the first 5mins I found the issue but I still wound up pulling the entire dash (I probably should've taken pics and done a write-up myself now that I think about it?) anyway just to give the wire harnesses and ground connections a good once over. Plus when I bought the vehicle it had come with an aftermarket anti-theft device w/remote start (which can be finicky at times) so I thought it a good decision to check out ALL of those connections too. Man I gotta say I had NO IDEA just how deeply those systems have to be integrated in order to do what they do!? The amount of connections between the anti-theft and the vehicle harness was surprising to say the least. I gonna hate having to go through that again.

Anyway, everything else checked out good and the bum wire was the antenna lead! Found it as soon as I pulled out the deck but it wasn't obvious because that wire is wrapped in some type of a foam tape from the factory. Over the years the wire's coating had gotten really brittle and cracked open and there was a pretty significant amount of exposed copper under the foam, which was chewed up pretty good in one spot due to rubbing on some of the sharp edges of the tins behind the dash. So I taped it all up and did some preemptive friction taping on a bunch of other wires and now she's all goood!
.
Thanks for the kind words sir! And I hear you on being reluctant to post questions on the ancient threads. But you'd be surprised how forthcoming these guys are especially in the Accord community. We 4th-5th gen owners are a pretty small niche in the overall Honda world and it's been my experience that those who are a part of that group are extremely helpful. Even when you bump an OLD thread (which I did quite a bit of during my build With that being said feel free to hmu or ask questions here anytime, and if I can help you out in any way I'll do my best. And if not, I can at least try to point you in the direction of someone here who can. There's a LOT of knowledge here on H-T and if you own a CD chassis you might want to consider hopping onto to HondaSociety also. They have an AWESOME, and very ACTIVE, 5th gen Accord community over there too. Most of which are members here too but they definitely seem to be much more active over there when it comes to modified 5th gen Accords. As a matter of fact one of our members (xsboredom) on HS just had his boosted CD5 on the Smoking Tire with Matt Ferra! chk it out:

Gary_Quinlan

Cool, thanks, I appreciate that. It's getting harder to find people who customize their own cars anymore let alone the 5th gen Accord. Maybe I'm just not looking in the right places. lol I will definitely check out HS, it's been practically impossible to find some aftermarket parts for the F22B1.

I have 10 (yes, 10) 5th gen Accords and 2 4th gen preludes but my baby is a '96 F22B1 CD7 coupe. I'll try to get some pics up one of these days.

Thanks for the video share, that looks like a nice build.

LeeMajors19082

Yea aftermarket parts for our engines are almost non-existent these days, the move is to search for F23 parts (since most translate over) because for some reason there seemed to be a bit more aftermarket support for them? And of course look for F22Ax parts also, because many of those will crossover too (just be sure to do research and make sure they fit).

Yes definitely head over to HS, they have a very active 5th gen Accord community AND you'll find a ton of kick-*** 5th gen parts over there in the For Sale section, pretty much everything in there is for our chassis/engine. Sounds like you've got quite the collection man!? I wish I had a 4th or 5th gen Lude... I fkn LOVE those cars. I look fwd to seeing some pics soon!

And np on the video... I've been wanting/meaning to share that over here. I think it's great that not only someones out there representing for the 5th gen Accord community, but that The Smoking Tire actually had him come out to review what's usually thought of as a "grocery getter", I mean who would've thought we'd EVER see an Accord on The Smoking Tire?!!! I've been watching that show forever and Matt Ferra usually reviews some pretty badass cars, actually he ALWAYS reviews BAD-*** CARS! He's up there driving everything from Ferrari's and crazy Dinan built/tuned M3's with gobs of HP to Hennessy Venoms and refurbed Panteras with crazy TT Ford engines, I mean this guy drives some BEASTLY cars! And he occasionally drives some normal ones too, but I wouldn't have thought in a million years we'd have seen a Accord... Especially not a '94 sedan!? Lol! So yea man I've been meaning to get that shared over here since I seen it, and I'm glad you enjoyed it.

LeeMajors19082

Does anybody know if you can bolt a k-series trans up to a F/H block? I mean I'm sure if you could everyone would be doing it, but maybe Not? So I just thought I'd ask and see if anyone's tried it, heard of it, or had any knowledge of it being done?

I know the new thing is putting K swaps into S2k's and I'm not sure but if all you need is an adapter plate and a clutch to do that, then surely it's possible to mate the 6-speed gearbox from a K-series onto an F/H block..? Can you imagine a boosted F/H in an Accord with a 6-speed manual?! THAT.... would be *******.

GhostAccord

The engines rotate in different directions, therefore the transmissions are not compatible.

LeeMajors19082

Ahhhh... I see. I didn't know that the F's that were in the S2k's were that much different from ours but now I know. Thx Ghost.

On a different note...I'm almost done with the new changes! Ok so manifold's built, new dp's done, AC is gone, got the right size alt belt, and now the dumptube is semi finished due to a slight miscalculation. So, it follows the downpipe and kind of wraps around under the alt bracket and then between the front cross-member and oil pan, BUT the problem is the end of the dumptube doesn't clear the bottom of the oil pan and I kind of feel like this might be an issue ?.... what do yall think? I know some pics might help but atm I don't have any, so just imagine the end of the dumptube is approx. 2in from the bottom of the lowest part on the oil pan. Will the heat coming out of there under boost be too much for the the oil? My options are either pull it and extend it so it dumps just passed the bottom of the pan or reroute the whole thing and dump it upwards through the hood...?

Javlin42

iTrader: (1)

No, it will be fine. Where is all the pictures?