Yes I already searched, and no I'm not finding many people with this exact setup. There were a couple posts from people with GTX discos in the FI chat thread, but the images all 404'd so there's not much I can see.

Looking for people in the 300->400WHP range that are using the upgraded disco potato. I'm considering a Go-Auto Street X kit with a log manifold along with a GTX2860R. Goal is only 300-350WHP for me, with spool as the focus point. I want it to feel as linear, instant, and close to N/A as possible. I'll be using an 11:1 compression ratio with 4.7FD ITR Trans. Daily driven.

I'm also curious what people think the estimated MPG would be on a setup like this, as spool would be almost instant and hard to stay out of so I think it may negatively impact gas mileage. Gen 2 GTX series just recently came out so I think there may be some pretty interesting options out there for our engines right now in the small frame department.

I'm mostly just looking for videos/dynos/experience from people running the disco potato in the GTX billet trim, especially Gen 2 if anyone has that already.

 

You want close to over 330whp-400whp, go with the GTX2863R or GTX2867R over the GTX2860R. The GTX2860R is focused for lower end torque for over 2.0 litres that still wants< 330whp. If you want close to 400whp and still stay in the 54mm turbine wheel. With the release of the Gen II series GTX28Rs, these 1st Generation turbos are getting better in price for Super Cores.

The Generation 2 series is more expensive, and hasn't had a lot of feedback yet due to limited release, although I'm currently testing one on a Fiesta ST.

 

Thanks Shodan, interesting stuff. The GTX2863R was the only other turbo I was considering. Either way I'll be going with a Gen 2. I'll also be reading up more on some of the recent Ford testing with the Gen 2's once I'm home from work, I've also seen a couple of those ST's.

350WHP is the absolute most power I'll ever want out of this car, period. I'll be using a B18 to start with, but building a B20 on the side to eventually get a bit more displacement out of the build. Low end torque is what I want.

Low end torque/response as a priority, 2L displacement (will do 85mm sleeves for 2.02L), do you still think the 2863 would be better than the 2860? I never intend to go over 350WHP.

 

Yes. Especially when you go 2.0 litre for the lower end. (I recommend just staying at 84mm to give yourself some additional room in the sleeve should something happen.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate the input. 2863 it is, and I'll definitely consider staying with just 84 on the sleeves; I have some time to think about that before I do the B20 block. I just realized that between 84/85mm bore that only changes the displacement by .047 litres, so yeah probably not worth the loss of insurance lol...

That's all I was wondering, but if anyone has first hand experience with any of these mentioned turbos I'd still be interested to see/hear/pics/vids/dyno whatever.

 

Could't find the gtx2863 in the Garrett website. Is it being taken out of producción?

 

It definitely isn't, if you google it you can find it on a tonne of websites (FullRace/RealStreet/ATPTurbo/etc). Like we were saying earlier, Gen 2 was just released fairly recently for the small frame GTX series.

I don't remember if it was the 2860 or 63 but I was having issues finding one of them earlier on Garrett's site as well. I've seen quite a few SR20 Nissan's and Focus/Fiesta ST's running the 63, looks really good for lower HP goals.

 

I was able to confirm it still exists and is still available. You would need to look at the Gen1 stuff.
You may want to check Super Core number 816365-5001S.
But you have to look in the 2013 catalog, as it is still considered as a Gen I product, and for some reason didn't get into the 2016-2017 catalog.

A lot of Garrett catalogs unfortunately have a lot of errors in them, especially the Vol. 4 & Vol 5 catalogs. (Incorrect Supercore and CHRA numbers, sometimes a mis-typed turbine wheel measurement or two) .

I have an FTP with a list of all of the catalogs from almost ALL of the Aftermarket Turbocharger companies since 2002. I'll see if I can make it a sticky for all to get more information.

 

What are your thoughts on the Go-Auto 2.5 -> 3" flared down pipes? Since the turbo only has a 2.5" discharge on the turbine side in the T3 trim as an option, I don't know how beneficial it would be to flare out to a 3" exhaust in the downpipe and then run 3" all the way back. Currently I'm still planning on doing this to try to remove as much back pressure as possible, but I don't know how beneficial that is since it's still 2.5" from the turbo through the first several inches of the DP.

 

But its only 2.5" at the outlet right next to the turbine wheel. Hot combustion gases want to expand and create pressure in the system that work against the turbo. Hence the benefit of 3" exhaust.

Corky Bell's Maximum Boost - "The best exhaust system for a turbo is none at all"

 

Actually, going from a 2.5" transition to 3" is a very good thing, as it causes a slight vortex effect to the turbine exhaust gasses. That's why you see a lot of conical-shaped GT and TiAL turbine housings that are 3" v-band, because they started off with the exhaust exit of the volute at something slightly smaller. This is very commonly used in Formula 1, Indy and Formula Ford applications that utilize turbocharging.




So, it fits on the turbo (GT and GT{X}) like so:




You'll note that even though most of the other turbocharger that are used whether or not they are journal bearing or ball-bearing CHRA, will have a typical T31 2.5" outlet, (even some of the custom-configured v-bands have this) because they expect the fabricator to make it into a 3" exhaust from a transition.



Only the GT 3" 4 bolt with it's special sized outlet, came from Garrett directly with a 3" to start with. Even then, that only works on GT & GTX CHRAs because of the fitment / profile of the exhaust wheel. But even then, as you can see, there is a nice conical transition.

 

This is true. However, for the small distance that the exhaust gasses go through from 2.5" to 3", even conical, especially at the speeds they're going, there's no loss in performance that's going to make any difference. It's quite negligible.

 

Thanks again guys. I was considering that as well, since I know intake pipes such as the AEM V2 try to increase the velocity of the air moving through the tube by changing the diameter.

3" Kteller W/ Vibrant bottle resonator and Magnaflow muffler should sound pretty sick when used in conjunction with the turbo as well. Will probably sound quite a bit more refined than just an N/a application too since the turbo will actually muffle the exhaust sound itself a bit. Should be tame and quiet enough for a daily, and still make some nice noises at WOT with straightpipes.

 

That's what I have, except I fitted a Magnaflow glasspack (bottle) up front instead of Vibrant....sounded sick and quiet the first couple days, till my **** tune started plugging the perforations with soot.
Got louder.

 

Running super rich I guess? My old S2000 with a log and 5858 sounded pretty nice with a 3" DP and Berk headerback, no resonator either. Wasn't loud and had a smooth idle, you could hear the turbo a lot more than you'd hear the actual engine.

Boring *** exhaust vid:
^Phone recording unfortunately really didn't do that car justice in the sound department. Had some nice little backfire pops. Weather that day was like 90+ degrees too.

 

yea, rich...after my Datsun is fixed, I'll get a new EMS and learn to tune.

 

i am looking into getting the same kit for my itr with 10.1 compression also with the same power goals. will be using the car for road racing. but i was thinking about getting the turbonetics t3 super 60. what are your thought on this turbo?

 

Get the GTX2860R over the T3 Super 60. That Turbonetics application is going on about 24 years old now, and its turbine wheel is longi outdated in terms of efficiency. You'll get to about 290whp-320whp and hit a brick wall while the GTX2860R will just keep going.!

 

How durable are the ceramic bearings?

 

I'm building a B16 with a GTX2860R for a buddy of mine, and a D16 for myself. The D16 is planned to be running in September, the B16 I have no clue. I will keep it up to date here if I have some experiences.

 

Willl the gtx2860r spool up fast? I also have the 4.7 gear in my trans. and like a said I really only use the car for the road course, so quick spool is what Im after. as far as hp goes Im only wanting a solid 300hp at first or maybe a little more!! lol whats the differences between the gtx2860r and the 2860rs turbos?

 

The GTX2860 is probably the fastest spooling turbo option you have. (Saying this very loosely as I'm sure there are exceptions to this, but generally speaking...)

This especially applies if you get one of the new Gen 2's or a Super Core.

 

did you go with the go-autoworks kit? if so how to you like it? and i dont think they offer the gtx2860rs in that kit.

 

Those use a silicon-hybrid bearing that is slowly replacing the steel ball-bearing ones over the last two years. It's not a ceramic bearing in the traditional sense at all. No disintegration or cracking.

You won't know by any part of the part number which is still steel and which one is not.

They rang are nice on the allocations I've used so far. Not like the older Turbonetics or Precision ones
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That's why you don't get the whole kit. Just the starter portion and get the rest elsewhere.

Head to the FAQs at the top of the forum page in grey highlight to see the differences. There is a link bolded in blue by Schister66 with every catalog and link with maps of these units.