This is before I put the lift. I had the wheels and tires and just couldn't wait. It rubbed a little in the rear on a hard bump but not much at all I thought it looked pretty good.

 

Looks great! What was your wheel and tire set up?

 

Finally got around to installing my lift ( strut spacers ) I was pretty surprised to find out, after doing hours of research and seeing nothing about anyone else having to do it. that I had to grind down a little notch out of my rear control arm to actually be able to fit the strut back into place after adding the spacer. I only had time to do the rear unfortunately but right now its sitting pretty level with a little bit of a rake. anybody have any tips on doing the fronts? Thanks.

 

I am running 27 inch BFG mud terrains and for this vehicle they are ultimate!!!! Here some pics of my crv hanging with my crews xterras mine is manual so it helps with the under power issue but man its like a side by side and I take it everywhere

 

I am buying a jeep drive train and duel axle swapping it with a nissan xterra v6 and tranny because I am with you I would like it all wheel all the time but I have found a temporary remidy DRIVE THE ABSOLUTE **** out of it and I found that works well lol

 

That will be interesting.

 

Absolutely there is. You have to modify the front and turn it into an air locking unit instead of the oil activated way it is now. Darrycar on this board has a good write up in his build thread for his AWD civic.

Berz out.

 

are you ******* serious that's is geiunus Berz you can never leave this thread I don't care if you have an element

 

Haha Naw man I'll still chime in. I'm following the thread so I'll still toss my 2 cents in all the time.

Berz out.

 

I'm honestly thinking about going bigger and better than the V... Don't get me wrong...I love the CR-V and always making believers out of ppl with their **** talking Honda hating asses. But I've been looking at FJ's A LOT lately and I've always been a Toyota lover... Plus I need something that can actually pull the toy car (MR2) to the track. The V just can't do it. I've located a Jackson racing SC for it and I may just pick it up for ***** and giggles and throw it on and see where it goes from there. But I'm kind of tired of dumping money into something that still won't be able to tow much of anything. I mean I have pulled a lot with the little Honda that could, just not much weight to brag about. Maybe I'll hang on to it for the collection for when I move back to Florida and make a nice beach cruiser out of it.... Who knows. Maybe I just need to do something to it to get me to fall in love again. But the serious lack of power gets to me each and every time I drive it.

 

we are one in the same my friend I have gone on to a nissan xterra to pull my driftcar ( r32 skyline) and as an overland vehicle I am so hard on vehicles and so is winter I can't sell my v plus it's Manuel and that really helps but it's like my side by side for winter lol and just a reliable spare vehicle and I love it sometimes I drive it rather than my camaro

 

I found some on ebay Super Bull Bar Honda CRV 02-06 Push bumper grill guard Black bumper | eBay

 

I notice whenever you guys buy aftermarket steel wheels such as the cragar or procomp you guys have to run spacers to clear the front . I was thinking of getting 15x7 as well but not sure of what backspacing to get without having to use spacers. Any suggestions ?

 

I'm not sure I have never had this problem on any of my other vehicles and I thought forsure mine would clear I am 3inchs wider a side then stock 6inch overall 15×8 and still needed 3/8 spacer in the front and arp extended race studs now I'm 3/4 of an inch wider in the front and mine are pro comp the brake caliper is a funky one in the front I think overall I am 75 or 76 inchs wide wider than a stock nissan xterra

 

It's not the backspacing. That makes no difference. It's the actual angle of the "spokes" that come off the hub. The backspacing is decided by where those "spokes" meet up with the outside rim. The spokes come off the hub the same in all backspacing. They are very vertical and hit the caliper no matter what backspacing the rim is. Hope that makes sense.

Berz out.

 

👌

 

Gene...Love the look of that Canyon roof cage. What cross bars did you use? OEM of the $600 Thule's?

 

looks like the factory crossbars.

Thanks for the link btw.

@gene, OME does make rear springs, they lift only 3/4".

It'd get rid of the rake and they can hold a little bit more of a load. I want to get them because I want to build a little trailer, it'd help with the towing.

 

Thanks for the info, i was planning on getting 15x7 with 4.25 backspacing. Is a 5mm spacer good enough to clear the caliper ?

 

Should be. Just be sure you have enough stud left for the wheel bolts once the spacer is on.

Berz out.

 

ya what berz said I had to go with longer studs in the front and I would recommend arp it's annoying but better than losing a wheel

 

Thanks for the info guys. More questions, those of you guys running the 2inch lift spacer or lift springs, what else supporting mods are really needed ? Camber kit ? Ball joint ? Control arms ? Or is just going to an alignment shop after all that needs to be done ? I just put the half inch leveling spacer in the rear to even out the height and I'm satisfied with it, but just incase i decide to go the 2in lift route I wanted to know exactly what else was needed .

 

Berz, you are the best!

I spent the past week reading up on Darrycar's build and I must say, his work is amazing. I'm surprised how much power the rear diff was able to handle. I'll even do the drive shaft mod like him to give it more strength. Now I just want to see how long the rear diff would last before pulling the trigger on this....

Thanks again for the heads up,

 

No worries. Changing the yolks is a huge upgrade in strength. He's done some awesome stuff with his build and it's holding together awesome so far.

Berz out.

 

Anyone know where i can get that real time awd sticker on the door ?