***The Official JRSC Thread***
CX-Adam, you are WAY over thinking this. First, the Endyn article that you referenced was a work around to drop static fuel pressures when using larger fuel injectors with a STOCK ECU. Tuning at that time was using a set of 440's, static fuel pressure at 28 psi (if you could get it that low), and a Bell/Cartech 2025I FMU adjusted to a rise rate of about 3:1. That was 1998... Welcome to 2017. We have very affordable engine management solutions like Hondata s300 today, so the mechanical fixes are no longer necessary. Keep your static fuel pressures at 43psi or above... and make a big fuel injector handle your fuel delivery needs via the ECU. Second, Lucas style injectors are an archaic design... and the bigger they get, the easier they seem to clog and run poorly. Besides the fact that you would have to do additional wiring with the need for a resistor box, the RC 1000's are simply not the best choice from a reliability standpoint. They were in 1998... but not today. There are too many great choices from Deatschwerks, ID, Grams, etc. that function far better than the RC's at a very competitive price. So don't worry about the differences in the tops of PL4's or SL9's... you don't want those anyway.
By the way, since you were curious... the resistor box IS put in place to dissipate heat. Inline resistors do the same thing although not as effectively. Running low impedance fuel injectors without the additional resistance of a box or inline resistor will damage the injector drivers inside the ECU.
By the way, since you were curious... the resistor box IS put in place to dissipate heat. Inline resistors do the same thing although not as effectively. Running low impedance fuel injectors without the additional resistance of a box or inline resistor will damage the injector drivers inside the ECU.
Thanks for the clarification, JR. I figured I was overthinking it. Always good to confirm.
Thanks everyone for chiming in. Like CX-Adam, my setup came with RC 440's. Based on FTL Racing's calculator my setup will support 261 whp max for 12.6 psi / 11.6 psi (LHT intercooled) of boost. However, I feel like I can make more power as I've seen other people here posting higher gains. Perhaps this is due to the fuel injector limitation mentioned by JRCivic1 which I don't see any inputs for on the spreadsheet. Anyway, it looks like if I want to make more than 260 whp I'll need bigger injectors so I'm leaning towards DW just because it's about $100 cheaper than Grams and ID. Any thoughts on that?
Contemplating if I should entertain offers for my setup... I thought I was nearly done but $$$ keeps on adding up lol
Contemplating if I should entertain offers for my setup... I thought I was nearly done but $$$ keeps on adding up lol
Last edited by porofek; Jan 10, 2017 at 04:22 PM.
I really like the Deatschwerks fuel injector line, so that would be my recommendation. I use the 1300's in my supercharged civic. What I like about them is their direct fitment for each application... no adapter hats and extra o-rings that might leak... all of the technical data necessary to run them better than perfect, and top notch support if you need it by the manufacturer.
The 550's will be enough injector for your current set up... but if you intend on transitioning to a newer, more advanced supercharger like a Rotrex based kit, I suggest you spring for the 750's or 1000's. The increased cost is nominal... $50-70 for the set.
The 550's will be enough injector for your current set up... but if you intend on transitioning to a newer, more advanced supercharger like a Rotrex based kit, I suggest you spring for the 750's or 1000's. The increased cost is nominal... $50-70 for the set.
Thanks everyone for chiming in. Like CX-Adam, my setup came with RC 440's. Based on FTL Racing's calculator my setup will support 261 whp max for 12.6 psi / 11.6 psi (LHT intercooled) of boost. However, I feel like I can make more power as I've seen other people here posting higher gains. Perhaps this is due to the fuel injector limitation mentioned by JRCivic1 which I don't see any inputs for on the spreadsheet. Anyway, it looks like if I want to make more than 260 whp I'll need bigger injectors so I'm leaning towards DW just because it's about $100 cheaper than Grams and ID. Any thoughts on that?
Contemplating if I should entertain offers for my setup... I thought I was nearly done but $$$ keeps on adding up lol
Contemplating if I should entertain offers for my setup... I thought I was nearly done but $$$ keeps on adding up lol
The calculator is based on roughly what your 1/4 mile trap speed and weight would translate into WHP. This typically translates to a DynoJet with standard setting however dyno's are subjective as it depends on settings and type. Typically mustang dynos read low, dynojet in the middle, and dynopack high but again it depends on settings.
Wasn't trying to boast, what I'm saying is 1000's have stock idle quality and will handle any power you'll ever make with this JRSC. And in my case, I will be doing a turbo build soon so now I can still use these. It's honestly the best overall solution.
Nice HeikDiesel! Is that E85 mixed with pump gas? My project will be delayed til I can get 1000 injectors. I want to do everything right the first time to avoid multiple tunes later on.
Nope straight out of the pump. Tested 82% if I remember right. I don't think I'd be able to get away with 91 because of how hot my IAT's get
I use this throttle body with a standard GSR throttle cabel and bracket. works great! other than the TPS sensor leaks a tiny bit of boost i need to seal with RTV
Also nice that the LHT manifold is bored to 68mm and this throttle body is 70mm. (not perfect but gotta be better than a stock gsr throttle body)
Like this
Is it the tps leaking boost, or is there a leak between the tb and the manifold?
The reason I ask, is that john @ LHT expressly told me not to use anything bigger than 68mm with the LHT manifold.
I havent installed my 69mm throttle body because of the above.
I'm still using the itr throttle body in the meantime.
How does that gsr throttle cable bracket attach?
Maybe I should get one.
And honestly once I have the money the car will be getting a 2L and a properly sized turbo setup for 450-500whp. I'm over the JRSC
^ yeah jrsc isn't that great, but for just shy of 300whp for my autox car and oomph down low, this is my best bet currently.
I think the b16b is an ideal partner for a centrifugal blower however.
I think the b16b is an ideal partner for a centrifugal blower however.
I have a buddy that uses a borg EFR on a b16b for an auto x car, it's pretty mean. I think if you go with a properly sized turbo setup it would destroy a jrsc, especially on a longer track. The track here is rather small, but I don't really have any comparison besides a lot of Miatas that use them here.
Is it the tps leaking boost, or is there a leak between the tb and the manifold?
The reason I ask, is that john @ LHT expressly told me not to use anything bigger than 68mm with the LHT manifold.
I havent installed my 69mm throttle body because of the above.
I'm still using the itr throttle body in the meantime.
How does that gsr throttle cable bracket attach?
Maybe I should get one.
The reason I ask, is that john @ LHT expressly told me not to use anything bigger than 68mm with the LHT manifold.
I havent installed my 69mm throttle body because of the above.
I'm still using the itr throttle body in the meantime.
How does that gsr throttle cable bracket attach?
Maybe I should get one.
Im not sure why they would tell you not to use a TB larger than 68mm (maby because the LHT manifold is only bored to 68mm) but if my other option is the tiny GSR TB then im gonna run with my 70mm anyway. im sure 70 is better than stock.
The GSR throttle cable bolts right to this throttle body just like the stock TB from skunk2. This TB is sold as a direct larger replacement for the stock one.
Been doing a lot of road racing; wrl & chump the last few years. Along with the rest of my racing and life in general I don't get by here very often. Glad it is still humming along.
I've noticed that a CCW 1320 TVS is now available from harrop. Not sure if anyone has noticed. One day someone will have to give it a shot.
I was wondering if anyone has tried this chiller with their LHT setup? We all know how much heat these jrsc make. Not sure its worth the cost though.
Universal Parallel Kit for Supercharged/Turbocharged Vehicles using air to water intercooling | Killer Chiller
Universal Parallel Kit for Supercharged/Turbocharged Vehicles using air to water intercooling | Killer Chiller
Thanks for the complement.
Been doing a lot of road racing; wrl & chump the last few years. Along with the rest of my racing and life in general I don't get by here very often. Glad it is still humming along.
I've noticed that a CCW 1320 TVS is now available from harrop. Not sure if anyone has noticed. One day someone will have to give it a shot.
Been doing a lot of road racing; wrl & chump the last few years. Along with the rest of my racing and life in general I don't get by here very often. Glad it is still humming along.
I've noticed that a CCW 1320 TVS is now available from harrop. Not sure if anyone has noticed. One day someone will have to give it a shot.
Veris do you have a link? I can't find it
440's have been a common choice for JRSC users through the years. With a big fuel pump (255 lph or bigger), the 440's will max out making about 260 wheel HP. So, if your combination makes 225-240 wheel HP, I would say the 440's would be fine to use. If you intend to make more power, then select a larger size. Also, RC 550's do not work properly on a "B" series JRSC, so do NOT use that particular size and brand for this application.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1
From: ainrofilac, Anti Stickers
I've been out of the loop for a while, but i've never heard of any compatibility issues with the use of 550's on B series.
My setup is long gone, but enjoy a couple videos of my dyno tune. I really miss this setup and wish I kept it and did it correctly with LHT manifold. The sound of the SC whine was exhilarating
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sR_aWUR8eoE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YVZmedNgrQ

Attachment 514639

Mods as I recall
Stock B18C1
Jackson Racing Supercharger with MVM stepper pulley
JDM 4-1 header
SMSP 2.5" cat
Fujitsubo RM01-A
Mugen Intake
RC 440
Walbro 255
P28 Hondata S300
My setup is long gone, but enjoy a couple videos of my dyno tune. I really miss this setup and wish I kept it and did it correctly with LHT manifold. The sound of the SC whine was exhilarating
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sR_aWUR8eoE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YVZmedNgrQ

Attachment 514639

Mods as I recall
Stock B18C1
Jackson Racing Supercharger with MVM stepper pulley
JDM 4-1 header
SMSP 2.5" cat
Fujitsubo RM01-A
Mugen Intake
RC 440
Walbro 255
P28 Hondata S300
Last edited by Seedc2; Jan 27, 2017 at 06:47 PM.
The RC 550 has a very distinct fuel spray pattern... unlike most fuel injectors that project a cone shaped mist of fuel, the RC 550 has a very tight "laser beam" style fuel stream. Because of the angle in which the fuel injector is installed into the JRSC intake manifold, at a very specific intake air velocity, this stream of fuel bends and strikes the face of the valve in such a way that it is nearly fully reflected back toward the fuel injector... causing a brief lean condition that manifests itself as a heavy mis-fire. In rare cases, this specific air velocity is not seen before 8000 rpm when operating a JRSC at 6 psi or less, and thus, may not result in the heavy mis-fire that I have described. However, at elevated boost levels, it will appear... and the higher the boost, the earlier it will appear... obviously, because the supercharger speed reaches the target rpm that creates the specific air velocity earlier in the engine's power band. On my own car, a 1.9L GSR engine with a JRSC @ 12 psi... my dyno graphs show this 40 HP power loss/mis-fire at 6750 rpm.









