Anyone here running a plateless setup in a EF hatch with H2B ?

Been looking at the brough performance kit but haven't found any feedback on it!

 

Buy it and tell us about it.

 

I am planning on purchasing a kit when the exchange rate isn't as bad for us Australians

 

DH- it was Garth's Garage car in the show. Chronicles is having a meet st Alki next Sunday too.

 

DH, that must be me haha! No, I don't know how I missed that! Damn. I wish I could come up there for that meet, but I don't travel north much anymore. My daily is not very long distance friendly.

 

Another hurdle: Got a harness from a company. Ran into a few things...

1. The knock sensor plug is different than my knock sensor. Considering this is an OBD2 JDM (H23A) motor, was I supposed to change to my knock sensor to OBD1 type? If there is an OBD1 type. My setup is OBD1 by the way.

2. Oil Pressure (marked OP on the label) sensor...no idea where that goes, or if my motor has the wrong one. All I see is the sensor on the bottom back of the block that the axle bracket is covering. Is there also an OBD1 type sensor I should buy for the block?

Any help is appreciated. I'm getting antsy at this point getting caught up by things I didn't see coming.

1st pic: Bottom back of block sensor.
2nd pic: Knock sensor on motor.
3rd pic: OP wire on harness.
4th pic: Knock sensor plug on harness.

 

Oil pressure is behind the intermediate shaft bracket. Knock sensor could be changed out for OBD1. Rock-auto has them, most inexpensive I found but not OEM.

 

I haven't posted a pic of my bay for some time, so thought I'd keep this thread moving with my latest look, just fitted a custom manifold cover (exhaust) as well as adapting the K20 cover over the RBC inlet





sorry quality not great on this one but you can see the k20 cover

 

has anybody installed skunk2 pro 1 cams into a euro r motor? do i have to worry about valve clearance ?

 

Chris- looks great

DAZZLESA- This place is pretty dead better off checking the Prelude or All Motor section.

 

I still lurk Coop

 

Hoping to lay down primer in my bay this weekend. I'm actually heading to the garage after this coffee. Gonna blow all the damn body filler dust out as best I can, the garage is just POWDERED now. Then get her up, drop upper control arms out along with the coilovers. Tape the firewall holes closed, do some light shock tower sanding, and then start masking. First time doing this, can't say I'm not nervous!

 

Still repping the H2B Got a 6page mag feature out in the UK this month. Not sure if you guys get this over in the USA??

 

Saw your announcement in the GDD thread will take a look for the magazine this week.

 

People still building h2b's or did everybody go k?

 

I'm running one right now. My be switching things up, but not sure. No matter what direction I go, the H2B will always be a great platform IMO!

 

Still in progress, need cooling system, wiring harness, coilovers and wheels and tires.

 

In my opinion h2b is still relevant. Sure a k has more potential, but it's so much cheaper to go h2b, especially if you already have a b series transmission. 4piston has a new head for the h22 that flows a lot of air.

 

I need a clutch line, radiator hoses (by the way, what's the right combo for those again?), and some damn time off work.

I have a bit of a problem too....my IAT on the Rosko worked RBC is far too close to the BMC to get the electrical connector on it. The IAT is located on the driver side of the plenum, directly opposite the throttle body opening. I'm not sure if I should make a hard wire to the connector, or just forget using that location for the IAT altogether. Maybe drill a spot on the underside of my intake arm? My motor is mounted at this point, and I'm really not interested in yanking the manifold off to do any drilling or tapping in the RBC.

Any suggestions?

 

I am still deciding if I want to go AN lines with a tucked radiator, can't help with the hoses.

Move your IAT to the intake and either use a rubber grommet with 96-00 sensor or a bung and CRV sensor.

 

Hello all.

Working on my h2b on a del Sol. QSD type kit. Having problems with alternator hitting the chassis. Need like 3/4" to the left.
I have stock h22 alternator and bracket (on pictures).

Also have a b-series alternator. Will it fit on the stock h22 braket and will provide clearance?
B-series alternator wiring is the same, plugs and everything, as the h22.

 

Sounds like you either need Innovative's H22 lower alternator bracket or the QSD bracket which allows use of the B-series alternator.

THE Alternative Alternator Bracket



https://www.innovativemounts.com/Pro...ductCode=59185

 

If you go with the Innovative, just a word of warning. I had to weld another brace to it and add a fourth mounting point as my original one decided to let go on the motorway (freeway) on Christmas day a couple of years ago lol. Not sure if anyone else experienced this but it wasn't fun seeing my alternator belt roll down the road chasing me!

 

Those go on the A/C compressor location? I wish to be able to add A/C in the future.

Also, what about the wiring? If I am not mistaken, plugs for B-series (OBD1 civic/integra) and H22 alternator are different.

 

Hello all,

Sold my B16
I'll be doing my first H2B into my 97 Acura 1.6EL in the coming few months right now just gathering parts.
So far I have on the way
Performance 1320 H2B kit
Performance 1320 Tensioner
Performance 1320 Balance shaft delete kit
Then getting header and the rest of necessary pieces to make it happen then final will be getting the long block going with H23A

BTW I have a few parts fs if anyone interested:

***USED*** CJs wiring B/D SERIES OBD2A EK engine harness sleeved with RAYCHEM DR-25 and MILSPEC TEFZEL WIRE.
Each sensor lead tagged with a YELLOW heat shrink label and printed in black text.
Bypassed VTEC Oil Pressure switch.
Bypassed CKF sensor
OBD1 alternator plug
OBD2 fuel injector plugs
OBD2 ecu plugs
**Note 2 of the inner cabin plugs are cracked but does not affect performance at all**
Asking $400.00 + Shipping and PayPal fees


***Used*** Avid B/D series billet motor mounts for 96-00 EK
Asking $140 + Shipping and PayPal fees


***Used*** Honda OEM 96-00 EK manual transmission rear T bracket
Asking $40 + Shipping and PayPal fees


***Used*** Honda OEM 96-00 Civic EX 22MM front sway bar with polyurethane bushings, Hardrace sway bar end links and LCA's with Suja1 bushings
Asking $200 + Shipping and PayPal fees