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If I have a OBD2 GSR swap (engine is from a '96) going into my OBD1 body ('94 EH3), what is the guidance?
I do want to keep the evap purge function, the car smells awful when purge is not purging.
So if I want to keep using A17, switched (-), where is this dead end plug YEL/BLK? It provides (+) from the PGM-FI main relay, yes?
Thank you again for your time.
If you're using an OBD1 ECU (which I assume you are) use the wiring diagram for an OBD1 setup. I know the part number for the solenoid changes from OBD1 to OBD2 but I don't think it matters.
The dead end plug is an 8 pin connector, all wires are yellow/black, you can't miss it. Yes it's switched 12v ignition power.
If you're using an OBD1 ECU (which I assume you are) use the wiring diagram for an OBD1 setup. I know the part number for the solenoid changes from OBD1 to OBD2 but I don't think it matters.
The dead end plug is an 8 pin connector, all wires are yellow/black, you can't miss it. Yes it's switched 12v ignition power.
I am using an OBD1 P72 ECM, so I will use the A17 switched ground (-).
The dead end plug is driver side, near firewall, in the engine compartment? I will look for that as 12v (+) supply.
Then I will need to figure out which IAB solenoid I have, as there are 2 different P/Ns:
I don't know if these solenoids are sensitive to polarity? It looks like the connectors switched polarity when going from OBD1 to OBD2. First image is OBD1 (uses YEL/BLK +), second image is for OBD2 (uses BLK -):
Last edited by 94 Civic Si; Dec 27, 2016 at 02:32 PM.
I had hoped to get some work done this weekend, but the highs yesterday were 37 degrees, today it snowed until ~10 AM. The sun is coming out now, so I may do a little work, but for the most part the weekend has been a bust.
I did get some work done on this shifter last weekend, so I can provide updates on that...
If you want to see all the pieces you can replace on your shift rod in the hopes of getting rid of the rattle - here they are.
As I said above, my B&M short shifter does not use the thrust washers or joint bushings called for. I doubt it will be worth shipping them back to return. I will figure out what o-rings I am supposed to use with the short shifter and get some new ones of those.
As I noted earlier, the B&M short-throw shifter does not use the joint bushing, but I discovered I could use the thrust washer. This piece can be used with the joint bushing, and they fit together well. I discovered I could use some o-rings in between the thrust washers and the sides of the actual shifter. Perhaps this, along with new bushing, o-rings between the bushing and the shifter and bolt + lock nut will do away with the rattle?
The shortened rod does put the shifter in a more neutral position that feels right while sitting still. This less sever angle might also alleviate the rattle I had previously. One can hope...
While I had both rods for the shifter down, I replaced the boot that seals the opening in the floor tunnel as the old one was torn and distorted.
Last thought on the shifter - it is a LOT easier to replace these parts with the shifter assembly out of the vehicle, and the exhaust out of the way!
This will help me as I plan on cleaning up some poorly-done splices over the weekend...
Originally Posted by 94 Civic Si
I have one terminal of IAB hooked up to A17, which should be switched ground (-).
The other terminal is grounded at the thermostat housing.
If I am correct, then my IAB never worked for 14 years.
This may explain why it felt like I never had any low-end torque off idle...
So last weekend I had hoped to clean up some wiring that the swap shop performed. It made sense to clean up all I could under the intake manifold while I was still waiting for the ball hone. Then I found out that the IAB solenoid had been wired to engine ground (-) at G101, and switched ground (-) a the pin A17 on my ECM/ECU. Thanks guys...
I decided to get a little more OCD about this project and order up some correctly color striped wire. I also found some cool solder-seal/heat-shrink/water-proof connectors. Can't wait to wire!
These guys have a great selection of GXL color stripe wire! They shipped right away. I ordered 16 gauge, however it looks like I could have ordered 18 gauge and been consistent with the engine harness wiring. I do not mind being a little heavier than stock when I am pulling new wire through the firewall with the old wire.
Here you can see I ordered PNK/BLU, YEL/BLK, and RED/BLU. My cat wanted to photo bomb the shot - you can see his paw in the lower corner as he was running in to lie down on the wire!
If you're using an OBD1 ECU (which I assume you are) use the wiring diagram for an OBD1 setup. I know the part number for the solenoid changes from OBD1 to OBD2 but I don't think it matters.
The dead end plug is an 8 pin connector, all wires are yellow/black, you can't miss it. Yes it's switched 12v ignition power.
Originally Posted by 94 Civic Si
I am using an OBD1 P72 ECM, so I will use the A17 switched ground (-).
The dead end plug is driver side, near firewall, in the engine compartment? I will look for that as 12v (+) supply.
Then I will need to figure out which IAB solenoid I have, as there are 2 different P/Ns:
I don't know if these solenoids are sensitive to polarity? It looks like the connectors switched polarity when going from OBD1 to OBD2. First image is OBD1 (uses YEL/BLK +), second image is for OBD2 (uses BLK -):
The sun came out a little bit today, so I thought I would check this out. I agree with @94EG8 that it does not seem to matter which solenoid I have. When I hook the IAB solenoid I have up to 12 volts, it clicks closed - regardless of polarity. So if I hook up my IAB correctly, it should close, blocking manifold vacuum from reaching the vacuum diaphragm at the intake, and therefore giving me the correct length intake runners until engine RPM hits 5,750 RPM and the switched ground (-) turns off, IAB solenoid opens, and manifold vacuum hits the vacuum diaphragm and the shorter runners for higher RPM are used.
Last edited by 94 Civic Si; Dec 11, 2016 at 03:17 PM.
I'm glad I got a little time to look at the Civic today. When I was taking things apart I flushed out the heater core with water. Lately the weather has been cold - getting down below freezing at night. At some point I thought about the temps and wondered if I still had water sitting in the heater core. It turns out I did - - So I blew out the water that was in there and poured some alcohol through to melt any ice that may have been in there and displace the water that had been left in there.
I hope the heater core did not get ruptured by ice. I will try to pressure test it when I put the new hoses on.
Here's a picture of a canister I think might work for you:
I'm not sure what car this is out of. The inlet from the tank is SMALLER than the outlet to the purge on this canister. This might be from a 96-00 Civic DX, or possibly from an Integra. Here's a thread where someone details changing their fuel filter on their 96-00 Civic DX, and you can clearly see the orange fresh air tube for the canister clipped to the fuel filter bracket as well as the charcoal canister with a single inlet/outlet on it (fourth image):
I suspect that's what this one is from. But this might work for you. In my images, PURGE is on the left, TANK on the right. The canister says "TENNEX" on it.
Here's a picture of a canister I think might work for you:
I'm not sure what car this is out of. The inlet from the tank is SMALLER than the outlet to the purge on this canister. This might be from a 96-00 Civic DX, or possibly from an Integra. Here's a thread where someone details changing their fuel filter on their 96-00 Civic DX, and you can clearly see the orange fresh air tube for the canister clipped to the fuel filter bracket as well as the charcoal canister with a single inlet/outlet on it (fourth image):
I suspect that's what this one is from. But this might work for you. In my images, PURGE is on the left, TANK on the right. The canister says "TENNEX" on it.
Crazy! I wonder why there is a second fresh air tube that goes straight up? I wonder the fresh air vent on our charcoal canisters have this design as well? I appreciate you thinking of me. We'll have to get together as I get closer to getting her back on the road. With a forecast high of 1 degree this weekend, I don't think I will get too much work done...
Crazy! I wonder why there is a second fresh air tube that goes straight up? I wonder the fresh air vent on our charcoal canisters have this design as well? I appreciate you thinking of me. We'll have to get together as I get closer to getting her back on the road. With a forecast high of 1 degree this weekend, I don't think I will get too much work done...
Ours has the fresh air tube too. It's clipped to the firewall behind the canister instead of the fuel filter bracket. There are two tubes on the bottom of the canister- one is used for a condensation drain and one is used for fresh air intake. You can see that in this one, but ours even with the three ports on top has this too. It's difficult to see but if you look carefully on the firewall deep down behind the charcoal canister you'll see an open rubber hose clipped on there.
Yeah, too cold for me too! Just let me know, I'll hang on to it.
I don't know if these solenoids are sensitive to polarity? It looks like the connectors switched polarity when going from OBD1 to OBD2. First image is OBD1 (uses YEL/BLK +), second image is for OBD2 (uses BLK -):
Since I have the little removable filter assembly on top of the IAB solenoid, I think I have the '94-'95 IAB and will wire accordingly.
Before I installed, I cleaned the PS lines by putting some compressed air through the open lines up by the PS fluid reservoir, then brake-clean, then more air. I did not realize how much fluid was still in there, so I made a nice puddle of PS fluid to lie in while I swapped out the racks - awesome!
This is not too bad with the intake and head out of the way. I sense it would suck to do with the whole engine in there. It definitely helped that I did a dry run last weekend. I think the worst part was biting the bullet and paying - straight cash, homie $$$
Just had to pull the rack from my sisters db7, I had to go back to the helms manual for some key things I forgot to do to remove it.
1. forgot to push the driver side inner rod in towards the passenger
2. forgot to remove the grommet
the linkage that holds the column to the pinion was still stuck on there but that was no biggie, just the above 2 kept me from removing and twisting the rack. All out now baby!!
with the engine in the car, so yes referring to your other thread it is possible to remove the rack with the subframe on.
Just had to pull the rack from my sisters db7, I had to go back to the helms manual for some key things I forgot to do to remove it.
1. forgot to push the driver side inner rod in towards the passenger
2. forgot to remove the grommet
the linkage that holds the column to the pinion was still stuck on there but that was no biggie, just the above 2 kept me from removing and twisting the rack. All out now baby!!
with the engine in the car, so yes referring to your other thread it is possible to remove the rack with the subframe on.
Glad you were able to get it done! I hope my threads helped.
Taking advantage of nice weather to work on cars feels great but then it's also kinda shitty because there's so many other things that could have been done. Way to get out and get after it, though.
I think I have been pretty clear about my disappointment in the overall quality of workmanship from the outfit that swapped the B18C1 into my little EH3. Overall, I love the car, and in spite of the shoddy work, things held up fairly well. I did have to spend some coin right after I got it back to un-**** some basic things they should have done. This picture here sums things up I think. You can see multiple splices, generic heater hose, multiple hose clamps. etc:
Some of the splices are close to the connectors as well - see Knock and IAB. when I went looking for the IAB wiring at the ECU, I decided to do something about it and improve the wiring that I did not like.
Here are the wires to ECU A & D for IAB and Knock - why? Just Why?
Re: Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
- So I blew out the water that was in there and poured some alcohol through to melt any ice that may have been in there and displace the water that had been left in there.
