It's an AEM 4110 . I've went up and down the with the voltage offsets aND nothing worked so I think I'll have to do it the long way.

 

have you tried leaving the offset at 0 and input the voltage scaling ?

 

Yup and that's why I moved the ground to the tstat.

 

my ground went directly to the ECU off one of the pins inside of the case...drilled a hole in the ecu case and routed it near the main wire harness

 

Interesting. This sounds like the best way to do it and probably would take care of any ground differences. More info please. What pin did connect your ground to at the ecu? Even a pic would be great if you have one.

 

I can get the info when I get home. but basically my hondata s300 V3 has a set of pins on it I wanna say about 8. It also comes with a harness, I chose not to use the harness, since I did not need the other 7 or so wires just laying about on the inside of the ecu. I soldered a wire directly to the pin and routed outside of case. I was scared to ground this to the chassis since I didnt really know what I was doing so that wire went to the grounded wideband output

Ill try pull the ECU and take some pics for u after work

 

Ah I get it now lol. So you grounded it right to the emulator. Interesting I never thought about that one, damn good idea man. The demon emulator has extra pins too. Thanks for the info bro!

 

Glad I could finally help u with something haha. Yea my first "tuner" couldnt get the AFR dataloging to work so I started playing around with it and finally figured this out as my wideband would not input into the ECU unless the ground coming off my wideband gauge was grounded to this pin

used the gnd terminal on the "analog inputs"
Soldered wire to pin, drilled hole in case secured with hondabond to hold/seal wire. Make sure you put some tin foil down to protect the rest of the ecu from dripping solder during this step
Added insulated connector so that ECU can still be easily removed from the vehicle

 

Wow genius idea! I'm gonna assume that the v2 has the same style ground. Thanks!

 

Give it a try my AFR readings in hondata directly reflect what I see on the gauge

 

Will do.

Last question for the night, can you record datalogs without a laptop hooked up? If so how did you hook it up?

Joe

 

That's awesome! Thanks for sharing 2k.

I looked at my demon and it has small screws that secure any wires ran to the additional outputs or ground. I do alway prefer to solder all my connections though.

 

V3 supports on board datalogging not sure about other versions, there is a limited amount of storage for doing this type of datalogs (about 30 mins or so), you can turn this feature on through hondata software, I never really tried this I always have used my laptop when doing datalogs

On Board Datalogging
Top Previous NextThe s300 has built in flash memory for datalogging with a laptop. The s300 has 16 mbit (2 mbytes) of memory, and can datalog from 20 to 60 minutes depending on datalogging speed. The s300 v2 and v3 have 32 mbit (4 mbytes) of memory, and can datalog from 20 to 120 minutes depending on datalogging speed and analog input options. The total number of datalogs is limited to 20 before the datalogs need to be download to a laptop or PC. Note: The flash memory has a write lifespan of at least 100,000 write cycles but it is not recommended to set datalogging on constantly.

See Datalogging Parameters for more information about setting up on board datalogging.
To download datalogs from the s300 to a laptop select the 'Datalogging' tab of the S300 Window.

 

ah ok its just a pain in the *** hitting f9 while driving haha.

 

I just hit the record button while my car is warming up and then make my runs and save the data logs once I reach my destination

 

That's not a bad idea I was under the impression there isn't enough memory for that.

 

No there are 2 methods on board data logging or laptop data log, When you activly have the laptop plugged in this is not on board data logging at least I dont think it is, pretty sure its logging directly to the laptop which does not have any limitations.

 

I don't know what happened but the car was being a pain in the *** to get in and out of gear and wouldn't go into 5th. Got the car home and pulled the transmission and the clutch and throw out bearing look fine so I pulled the case to find this with some sizable shavings. The needle bears in the synchros turns like a rachet and they are discolored like they over heated.

 

Well some how the needle bearing and synchro fused themselves together. I replaced both and plan on putting the trans back in on friday. Before I do that I have an aluminum flywheel and a CC steel flywheel. I'm currently running the AL but get alot of chatter taking off. Would swapping out for the steel one help that?


Joe

 

No. Changing the flywheel doesn't help that issue. That's based upon the clutch and throwout bearing. I need to re-read which clutch you got, but if it's made with no springs and/or the springs are strong and tight because you used a super overrated strong clutch and it's been after the break-in time, then it's your clutch doing that.

 

It's a Competition Clutch Stage 4 with a 6puck sprung disc. With all that being said, does it matter which flywheel I run? I'd rather run the one that would perform better for street driving.

Joe

 

Yes, it does matter, both in weight & material.

The flywheel teeth on aluminum flywheels (depending upon company .. i.e. fidanza) tend to shear off over time against that teeth of the other parts they are connected with. I'd use a lightweight chromoloy or steel flywheel. For 400whp, there's really no need to use anything other than the stock flywheel, that is resurfaced. Flywheels like ACT , Exedy , and TODA are either aluminum with steet teeth or chromoly and are much more durable, and go from about 12-18lbs of rotational weight, which is perfectly fine for a street car if you must use aftermarket.

Going too light on a flywheel (meaning rotational mass is much lower, )sounds nice if you're NA going on a circuit, because the rpms drop down faster in between gears allowing for the car to uses its inertia to slow down more quickly. However, that also means that when you shift into higher gears in acceleration, you have to shift faster in order for the car to stay in the proper rpm band so that the next gear isn't outside of that good range. The car may feel "laggy" on a turbo when it's not because of using too light of a flywheel.

For street applications, yes, OEM is about 22lbs and is a little heavy, but it's fine for your build. If you go aftermarket, 12lbs-18lbs is more than enough for what you need (see the companies I listed above). 8lbs flywheels are a PITA for turbo cars, and just makes getting used to driving the car more difficult than necessary.

As for the clutch, a Stage 4 Competition clutch (#1620 "strip series") is called "STRIP" series for a reason. That clutch is capable of over 595lbs-ft of torque, which is something your car will never see at 400whp, (or even 700whp for that matter) and is made as a big street/strip clutch. If you haven't finished the 300-450 mile break in period, then it's no wonder it's chattering; the plates haven't mated to the flywheel yet. Now, after that break-in period (which is why I never "break in" my engines on a dyno) if it's still doing it, it may be the way the clutch is supposed to engage. After all, it is made for "STRIP" driving, just not as hard on the leg to engage.

If you're changing flywheels, check the clutch pressure plate, and look at the pads of the clutch; check for "glazing" and overwear on the pads. It could be that they were never seated properly if you didn't perform a break-in period letting the metals of the pads and pressure plate "mate" together. If there's a lot of glazing on the pressure plate, could be a problem. If it's not "horrible" chattering, more than likely you're fine.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks the input Shodan. I went with the steel flywheel and it just feels more solid. Idk I'm probably crazy haha. So I also finally installed the new Spal fan and it works great! Finally I'm able to drive around and beat the **** out of it without worrying! I have the s300 fan switch set at 195 at the moment and temps went up to 200 degrees once and quickly went back down. . I'm also gonna order a turbo blanket next and I think the will finish off taking car of the heat issue. On another note my turbo has already developed a decent amount of shaftplay from what it origanlly had when i first bought it. The turbo has MAYBE 1000 miles on it. From what ive read a little shaftplay is normal as long as its not excessive. Any input on that?

Thanks
Joe

 

even on a brand new turbo you will have some shaft play when its a journal bearing, check for in/out play if there is none you should be good to go.

 

What turbocharger are you using again? Which CHRA system? Is it water cooled?