gutted-dx's Sleeved B16 STC Surfer Engine Build Progress Thread.
From what I can see from the pic your plugs look pretty good. Looks like if anything a little rich at wot, but hard to tell from the pic. Do you have a wideband? If so what are your afrs like at wot?
Wow that's waaaay too rich. Should be ~11.5 and that's still conservative. I'm very surprised English would tune it that rich. Maybe post your maps. Low cam and high cam ignition and 2d fuel maps make sure you include the boost columns.
It still gets good gas mileage and doesn't smell like its running rich either. I also fixed a boost leak that it had when it was tuned.
Do you know if it's in closed loop? If it is it will correct your part throttle afrs to ~14.7 and you will get good gas mileage. Your low cam fuel map looks pretty choppy to me, but it's the 10-10.5 afr at wot that worries me. Did it run that rich before you fixed the boost leak? If the boost leak was bad enough it might need a clean up tune. Can you post the high and low cam ignition tables too, make sure you show the boost columns up to at least 16psi. It was tuned at 16psi right?
A boost leak would cause a richer af, correct? Because you're not pumping in as much of the intended air, it would run richer. I noticed a change in my a/f when I changed my intercooler piping/plumping (probably due to a leak I had or too much restriction in the bends,etc... Also, I'm ignoring my o2 sensor (open loop) for now until I get it as close as I want it.
Do you know if it's in closed loop? If it is it will correct your part throttle afrs to ~14.7 and you will get good gas mileage. Your low cam fuel map looks pretty choppy to me, but it's the 10-10.5 afr at wot that worries me. Did it run that rich before you fixed the boost leak? If the boost leak was bad enough it might need a clean up tune. Can you post the high and low cam ignition tables too, make sure you show the boost columns up to at least 16psi. It was tuned at 16psi right?
I never noticed it before but i also wasnt paying much attention. Haha to be honest i have no clue how to show the boost columns. It was tuned to 15psi. i have a pic of the dyno graph also and it to is choppy. I'll get the ignition up in a second. Could this have anything to do with running old gas in the car while being tuned?
A boost leak would cause a richer af, correct? Because you're not pumping in as much of the intended air, it would run richer. I noticed a change in my a/f when I changed my intercooler piping/plumping (probably due to a leak I had or too much restriction in the bends,etc... Also, I'm ignoring my o2 sensor (open loop) for now until I get it as close as I want it.
hmm way to choppy for my liking (im not a tuner at all)
in my experience those spiked areas your engine may have not seen at the dyno, but when you get on the street and you hit those spots your afrs will be off
in my experience those spiked areas your engine may have not seen at the dyno, but when you get on the street and you hit those spots your afrs will be off
2k, that's also what I was thinking (also not a tuner). From what I've read its supposed to be smooth and linear. The ignition table looks about the same, choppy.
On a side note the slim fan was to big so, I ordered a 12in spal. A 13in was nowhere near fitting.
Joe
On a side note the slim fan was to big so, I ordered a 12in spal. A 13in was nowhere near fitting.
Joe
2k, that's also what I was thinking (also not a tuner). From what I've read its supposed to be smooth and linear. The ignition table looks about the same, choppy.
On a side note the slim fan was to big so, I ordered a 12in spal. A 13in was nowhere near fitting.
Joe
On a side note the slim fan was to big so, I ordered a 12in spal. A 13in was nowhere near fitting.
Joe
haha yep 12" is the one that worked for me also.
yea My first tune was very choppy like yours actually it was worse then yours I had lean spots in boost since the turbo was spooling faster on the street then at the dyno, new tuner seems to know what hes doing (not saying anything good or bad about english I know nothing about them)
this is what mine look like now
yea My first tune was very choppy like yours actually it was worse then yours I had lean spots in boost since the turbo was spooling faster on the street then at the dyno, new tuner seems to know what hes doing (not saying anything good or bad about english I know nothing about them)
this is what mine look like now
Last edited by 2kdrift; Oct 20, 2016 at 02:04 PM.
What caused it to spool faster on the street? As soon as I sell the damn top mount I bought for no damn reason.
2k's tune is more what you'd expect to see from a tune done right. At 2k you posted your high cam fuel map twice instead of your high cam ignition map FYI. Looks good though man.
Sometimes the actual road is better at loading up the engine. Same reason you produced boost at a lower rpm in 4th gear vs 1st.
2k's tune is more what you'd expect to see from a tune done right. At 2k you posted your high cam fuel map twice instead of your high cam ignition map FYI. Looks good though man.
2k's tune is more what you'd expect to see from a tune done right. At 2k you posted your high cam fuel map twice instead of your high cam ignition map FYI. Looks good though man.
Yeah load on the street is always different then dyno load. Tunes should be verified with street driving prior to being called "complete"
I have the wideband set up for d10 (eld) if I remember right, the wideband is also grounded on the tstat. What's the best way to calibrate the gauage to the laptop? Just hold them next to each and **** with the offset or is it never gonna be dead on? Gonna do a little remote tuning so I wanna get the reading possible.
Joe
Joe
I have the wideband set up for d10 (eld) if I remember right, the wideband is also grounded on the tstat. What's the best way to calibrate the gauage to the laptop? Just hold them next to each and **** with the offset or is it never gonna be dead on? Gonna do a little remote tuning so I wanna get the reading possible.
Joe
Joe
Hope that helps and makes sense lol.
Yeah I kinda know what you're talking about. The wb came with a list of Cal numbers but it looks like I'll have to fine tune it.
what is the manufacturer of you wideband?
I just used the voltage specs that were in the manual, once I updated the voltages I just double checked that laptop and gauge were showing the same
my offset is set to 0
I just used the voltage specs that were in the manual, once I updated the voltages I just double checked that laptop and gauge were showing the same
my offset is set to 0
Yeah it's nice when you can just input the manufacturers voltage scale and be done with it, but most of the time they need to be fine tuned.
Hmm I see I would think that the gauge itself also has the same numbers pre programmed into it. It just changes the display based on voltage, if all your connections are good I dont see why you would need to fine tune it much





