Hi, I have a Honda Civic Si Hatchback , 1993, which is having the problem mentioned in other threads. I have gotten as far as jumping 1-7 in the main relay (no power), and jumping 5-7 and the fuel pump runs. The battery has good juice, and fuses 24 and 31 are good. The engine cranks. The problem has been intermittent, and re-soldering the main relay helped for a while, and now I have a new main relay. Any help greatly appreciated. (Side note, we recently had a lot of rain and water came into the drivers floor, working on that problem also)

 

I have been following another site, and have found that I am not getting 12v at the number 1 pin of the main relay with the key out.

 

And it runs if I do this

 

Did this^ finding inspire you to check fuse 31? Did pin 1 have any voltage?

Did any pin have voltage?

 

Thanks so much for your reply. Pin 1 gets 0.3 volts with key out. Pin 5 gets 12v with key in number 2 position. I checked the fuses, they were all good, BUT, there is only the 0.3 volts at fuse number 31.

 

Did you measure voltage at both tabs of fuse 31?

If you jump only pin 1 on the far left to the pin 7 on the far right, does the pump run?

 

Nope, 1-7 = nothing, 5-7 with key in II position makes pump run

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...fuses-3079359/

 

Oops, didn't see the first part of your post, did check both sides of #31, same voltage on both sides, exchanged for similar 15a fuse, same thing

 

Replace the hood fuse box.

 

Ron, again thank you for your help. This is actually my brother-in-law's car, but he is not mechanically savvy about such things, and he lives 25 miles from me. I'll close up for the night, and probably won't be able to get back to it until the middle of next week. But have a question.

Should the voltage at #31 be about 12 volts?
Also, I will try to attach two pics of the wiring that came off the bottom of the fuse box. (I brought it home)

Is there any value in trying to clean up this box (he has had this car at least 15 years and it always sits out under a tree, and is filthy inside and out). And the wiring, soak the ends in alcohol to clean them up??? (I take it the wiring harnesses shouldn't look like the ones in the pictures)

Thanks again, and see you next week, ht in Kansas

 

Fuse 31 should have approximately the same voltage that you measure across the battery posts.

The fact that fuse 31 lacks voltage but fuse 24 has voltage is pretty definitive evidence that the hood fuse box is toast.

The pic of the melted connector(s) suggests that a short in the connector or its associated wires blew the hood fuse box.

Therefore, before you replace the hood fuse box, you need to fix the short in the connectors/wires or replace the wire harness.

Which connector (C202, C203, C205, or C206) on the underside of the hood fuse box is melted?

 

The one that appears fried is the white (nylon?) connector in the first picture, which isn't any of those (C202, C203, C205, or C206: brown connectors), but goes into the box-like thing next to those female receptacles , and apparently is the connector to the ELD, because the three wires are Blk/yel Grn/red Blk, (see last diagram).

I assume all that white stuff on the brown connectors is some kind of protective electrical grease? Thx

 

The white stuff is dielectric grease to seal the connectors from moisture.

The diagrams clearly show that C202/C907 is the melted ELD connector.

It's unlikely a coincidence that the fuse box is bad and the ELD connector is melted. If the short is in the melted the ELD connector, then the problem may repeat when you install a replacement fuse box.

 

You are correct it is the connector for the ELD and the discoloring is due to heat and that is because of a poor connection to the ELD, the "white stuff" is di-electric grease it prevents moisture, [air] from getting to the connection, I do not see that on the ELD plug, it is most likely the cause of the poor connection.

Because of where the overheating occurred I suspect the connection problem is between the wire and the terminal, to repair de-pin the terminal clean them up and solder the lead to the terminal then cover with di- electric grease and re-pin. 94

 

Hi Guys, I'm back finally and I have the new (used) fuse box. I'm trying to de-pin the white connector that was burned, see post 11 above. Can you tell me the trick to de-pinning it before I get mad and just pull too hard and break it please. I have a small jewelers screwdriver, and I figure it goes in the front or the back to release a tab. Thanks in advance

 

That connector is so discolored it will most likely Crack and break before you can remove the pins

If you must, I would remove the connector from the vehicle leaving an inch or two of wiring where you cut to leave room to splice the cable back together, then attempt to De pin it off of the car