main relay problem... yes i searched...
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
main relay problem... yes i searched...
92 integra LS...
fuel pump isnt priming, so i narrowed it down to main relay and fuel pump. I can hear the main relay clicking, but im wondering if i hear it clicking does that for sure, 100% mean its good, or is there another test i can do? Thanks...
fuel pump isnt priming, so i narrowed it down to main relay and fuel pump. I can hear the main relay clicking, but im wondering if i hear it clicking does that for sure, 100% mean its good, or is there another test i can do? Thanks...
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
Oh man...my car was down for a month over this ****.
Here's what I found.
My fuel would not prime, but once I gave it a power supply it worked. So that lead me to believe it was my relay. It would click on, but it still wouldn't start the car. I blew up a few relays in the process of figuring out the problem. I ended up having a bad wire running from the relay to the fuel pump. I hope that helps some.
I have a few stock fuel pumps and a few relays left over. If you need anything PM me.
Here's what I found.
My fuel would not prime, but once I gave it a power supply it worked. So that lead me to believe it was my relay. It would click on, but it still wouldn't start the car. I blew up a few relays in the process of figuring out the problem. I ended up having a bad wire running from the relay to the fuel pump. I hope that helps some.
I have a few stock fuel pumps and a few relays left over. If you need anything PM me.
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
ok, sounds good. im gonna give some power to the pump tonite and see if it whirs on by itself. ill also check that connector for voltage while its in the 'on' position. Thanks alot for the reply.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Man, I had this problem with my EG! It would stall at stop lights and everywhere, I had to push it out of traffic many times! So yeah, might as well get it over with and replace the mail relay and the pump, always good to just go ahead and replace them.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any ideas on an average price for a main relay?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine was around $35
Mine was around $35
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#9
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
That would be cool but this main relay is 'clicking' though im not 100% sure if that means its good or not. Ill be testing the fuel pump in a few days (ah the joys of a project car and not having to worry about 'what happens if i cant get to work ) but thanks for the offer man. I'll definately let you know.
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
Is your fuel pump priming? I would say most likely if your relay is clickin that it is working, so probably your fuel pump. If both are working however, I would say its wiring like the problem I had.
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
no priming whatsoever. I would have checked it already however its on a DA so i gotta drop the tank. Im saving that little project for a day when i have some time....
#12
Honda-Tech Member
#13
Honda-Tech Member
Re: main relay problem... yes i searched... (eda6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> main relay repair </TD></TR></TABLE>
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Narrowing down a problem to one of two things is hardly guessing, but thanks.
I finally got my helms back and conducted those tests with my multimeter yesterday. The main relay is fine.
When i get a full day off, im gonna drop the tank and relpace the pump. Thanks for all the help guys.
I finally got my helms back and conducted those tests with my multimeter yesterday. The main relay is fine.
When i get a full day off, im gonna drop the tank and relpace the pump. Thanks for all the help guys.
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i get a full day off, im gonna drop the tank and relpace the pump. Thanks for all the help guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You check to see if you have power to the pump?
You check to see if you have power to the pump?
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
ok this is contradictory info, ive heard from multiple people you have to drop the tank on DA's. One of my buddies with a b18a turbo just a few months ago.
#20
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok this is contradictory info, ive heard from multiple people you have to drop the tank on DA's. One of my buddies with a b18a turbo just a few months ago.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I swear I saw it on my friends DA. I mean, it is easier to check for it then drop the tank.
I swear I saw it on my friends DA. I mean, it is easier to check for it then drop the tank.
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
#24
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (LsVtec92Hatch)
You definitely have to drop the tank to replace it the pump. However, to check for power going to the pump, there is a 4 pin connector right where the sheetmetal under your bum when sitting in the back seat drops down to the floor under where your knees would be if you were sitting in the car. This 4 pin connector brings power and ground to the fuel pump, as well as power and signal from the fuel level sender to the instrument cluster.
Here is where you would check to see if power from the main relay was making it to the fuel pump (at least as far as this connection). There is a further 30-36" of wire that winds its way around the tank to the pump in the right rear corner of the tank.
Even if your relay clicks, there is still a possibility that the solder joints are bunk. They will go hot and cold (open and closed) depending on the ambient temps at the realy. Its soooooo easy to just resolder all the joints on the bottom of the circuit board in the relay (10 mintue job), that I would not go any further until such time as you have done this.
I just (last week) changed my fuel pump to the Walbro 255LPH (regular pressure), and now I'm faced with blowing the fuse that supplies power to the main relay on occasion. Looks like it time to upgrade the wiring and relay and run a 15 amp fuse instead of 10 amp.
Here is where you would check to see if power from the main relay was making it to the fuel pump (at least as far as this connection). There is a further 30-36" of wire that winds its way around the tank to the pump in the right rear corner of the tank.
Even if your relay clicks, there is still a possibility that the solder joints are bunk. They will go hot and cold (open and closed) depending on the ambient temps at the realy. Its soooooo easy to just resolder all the joints on the bottom of the circuit board in the relay (10 mintue job), that I would not go any further until such time as you have done this.
I just (last week) changed my fuel pump to the Walbro 255LPH (regular pressure), and now I'm faced with blowing the fuse that supplies power to the main relay on occasion. Looks like it time to upgrade the wiring and relay and run a 15 amp fuse instead of 10 amp.