Wildwood Dpha vs ITR brakes
As far as I know there is no dust seal on wilwood calipers...
Your chump car as probably 100hp and probably weight 1700lbs... My car is 250whp k teg and it weight 2250lbs. It probably reach way much more speed than yours in between 2 corners. I didnt even brake went I compete on my buddys chumpcar or just barely to keep momentum. Totally different type of driving... Enduro racing is about being gentle on componments so can still have a car to reach the checked flag. On my time attack car, when you need to extract every single tenth, your brake tend to suffer way much more! But I m wondering how can you fit a 500-600$ brake kit on a chumpcar without breaking the bank with the actual rules... Unless they change it this year...
If you have a serious track car that car reach serious speed, your gonna experience those kind of probs. There s a bunch of guys who runs Honda with similar brake set up to mine not having those probs but they are slower too. I have won the last 5 years provincial time attack championship here... It probably mean something!
That beign say, I haven t tried it my self. But me and my friends works as a team and with the type of driving we are doing, it wasen t convincing for him. An other friend of mine has run the dynalite kit and was also experiencing leaking seal and a low pedal when thing were getting hot... That summer he dnf 2 times because of break issues.
Good if it works for you, but it didn t for my 2 friends...
As for the low pedal feel on a Honda, next time it happen to you, just try new pads in the back... It solve my prob almost each time! I don t even let them wear more than half now. This way, I always have a rock hard pedal feel... Easy 50$ fix!
Last thing... I experience craking rotor with the dtc70 on track where you need your brake. On a track like Mosport, I never had issue...
Your chump car as probably 100hp and probably weight 1700lbs... My car is 250whp k teg and it weight 2250lbs. It probably reach way much more speed than yours in between 2 corners. I didnt even brake went I compete on my buddys chumpcar or just barely to keep momentum. Totally different type of driving... Enduro racing is about being gentle on componments so can still have a car to reach the checked flag. On my time attack car, when you need to extract every single tenth, your brake tend to suffer way much more! But I m wondering how can you fit a 500-600$ brake kit on a chumpcar without breaking the bank with the actual rules... Unless they change it this year...
If you have a serious track car that car reach serious speed, your gonna experience those kind of probs. There s a bunch of guys who runs Honda with similar brake set up to mine not having those probs but they are slower too. I have won the last 5 years provincial time attack championship here... It probably mean something!
That beign say, I haven t tried it my self. But me and my friends works as a team and with the type of driving we are doing, it wasen t convincing for him. An other friend of mine has run the dynalite kit and was also experiencing leaking seal and a low pedal when thing were getting hot... That summer he dnf 2 times because of break issues.
Good if it works for you, but it didn t for my 2 friends...
As for the low pedal feel on a Honda, next time it happen to you, just try new pads in the back... It solve my prob almost each time! I don t even let them wear more than half now. This way, I always have a rock hard pedal feel... Easy 50$ fix!
Last thing... I experience craking rotor with the dtc70 on track where you need your brake. On a track like Mosport, I never had issue...
Regarding the brakes, I have both brake systems avail to me. I prefer the willwoods for feel over the ITR set up. I run a similar car as you- EG 2250 lbs 229 WHP. 4 sprint races in a day on most race weekends.
1 thing I think you got wrong- the enduro driving style you describe is a decade old unless you are there simple to "participate". It's 14-24 hour sprint racing with even chump cars these days. We run our 5-series chump car 2:37-2:43 lap times at Sebring and 2:20-2:30 lap times at Daytona. The only "dialing back" is if you over cook the RS-3's we run. The motor mounts fail, the bushings go to hell......but there is no pampering. In 23 events (4 of them 24 hour) it has only not finished 5 times.
Regarding the brakes, I have both brake systems avail to me. I prefer the willwoods for feel over the ITR set up. I run a similar car as you- EG 2250 lbs 229 WHP. 4 sprint races in a day on most race weekends.
Regarding the brakes, I have both brake systems avail to me. I prefer the willwoods for feel over the ITR set up. I run a similar car as you- EG 2250 lbs 229 WHP. 4 sprint races in a day on most race weekends.
Great! I though this tread was about brake. Op want to know dpha vs itr set up. I wrote down what I know about entry level wilwood brake. From my friends experience, it suchs, it s cheap stuff. If it works for you, then perfect! But there s better way to spend 600$ on a car these days. The oem itr upgrade is way enough. And if you read the whole tread, it s all bolt on now with the mini or the mg rover rotors. The redrill and shim thing... This is a decade ago!
The Wilwood DPHA Kit here in the US can be had for $400, that is why it's so tempting. I don't like the rotor situation using the ITR calipers although I do like using OEM Honda parts. The Wilwood dynalite kit (11" 2pc rotors) for $600 seems to be a good compromise with easily available reasonbly priced rotors, pads & replacement parts.
The only kit I would try is the radial dynapro. But I understand that for 400$ it s tempting and it give you extra money to invest in a life insurance!
These will be my last comment on this one. Buy quality part.
Great! I though this tread was about brake. Op want to know dpha vs itr set up. I wrote down what I know about entry level wilwood brake. From my friends experience, it suchs, it s cheap stuff. If it works for you, then perfect! But there s better way to spend 600$ on a car these days. The oem itr upgrade is way enough. And if you read the whole tread, it s all bolt on now with the mini or the mg rover rotors. The redrill and shim thing... This is a decade ago!
I see lots of these brake kits onRACE cars at the FARA USA events I run. It's very open class racing with budgets way over my pay grade. I have Ernie Francis jr. and Jim Dentici in my run group. Francis in his continental tireTC Miata and Dentici in his center seat, tube frame integra. That should tell you the level of the cars on the grid.
Last edited by miamirice; Mar 11, 2016 at 04:02 AM.
Jesus...
Our chump car btw is a del sol with a gsr motor, so its nothing like a 100hp car. Its not a K motor, but I guarantee some of our drivers would run times in this car faster than some people in their K swapped cars. Time attack isn't w2w racing. Ive run numerous speed cars on track, so you really dont know what youre talking about.
Wilwood is great quality....Im running a 6 piston 14 inch set on My Focus ST that has 340 at the wheels, which I also do track days with. Those brakes are fantastic in both roles.
Leaks are typically from bad installs, I would bet your friends calipers leaked because of user error.
I think Im going to push the wilwood dpha for our chump car just to prove a point....I know how awesome they felt on my itr swapped integra.
Our chump car btw is a del sol with a gsr motor, so its nothing like a 100hp car. Its not a K motor, but I guarantee some of our drivers would run times in this car faster than some people in their K swapped cars. Time attack isn't w2w racing. Ive run numerous speed cars on track, so you really dont know what youre talking about.
Wilwood is great quality....Im running a 6 piston 14 inch set on My Focus ST that has 340 at the wheels, which I also do track days with. Those brakes are fantastic in both roles.
Leaks are typically from bad installs, I would bet your friends calipers leaked because of user error.
I think Im going to push the wilwood dpha for our chump car just to prove a point....I know how awesome they felt on my itr swapped integra.
Jesus...
Our chump car btw is a del sol with a gsr motor, so its nothing like a 100hp car. Its not a K motor, but I guarantee some of our drivers would run times in this car faster than some people in their K swapped cars. Time attack isn't w2w racing. Ive run numerous speed cars on track, so you really dont know what youre talking about.
Wilwood is great quality....Im running a 6 piston 14 inch set on My Focus ST that has 340 at the wheels, which I also do track days with. Those brakes are fantastic in both roles.
Leaks are typically from bad installs, I would bet your friends calipers leaked because of user error.
I think Im going to push the wilwood dpha for our chump car just to prove a point....I know how awesome they felt on my itr swapped integra.
Our chump car btw is a del sol with a gsr motor, so its nothing like a 100hp car. Its not a K motor, but I guarantee some of our drivers would run times in this car faster than some people in their K swapped cars. Time attack isn't w2w racing. Ive run numerous speed cars on track, so you really dont know what youre talking about.
Wilwood is great quality....Im running a 6 piston 14 inch set on My Focus ST that has 340 at the wheels, which I also do track days with. Those brakes are fantastic in both roles.
Leaks are typically from bad installs, I would bet your friends calipers leaked because of user error.
I think Im going to push the wilwood dpha for our chump car just to prove a point....I know how awesome they felt on my itr swapped integra.
OMG another Del Sol racecar!!!!!!! dammit show me pictures....... We just bolted the DPHA on our 95 DelSol. Stock Type R driveline. 176WHP, 2400LBS. We will find out in late May if they are better then the stock VTEC DelSol setup. Still need to decide on what pad to use. Ended last year on DTC-70s. Might go with them for the DPHA since we know how the pad already works. Just need to learn the new calipers.
Re-read my post... I never say all wilwood products is junk... But you get what you pay for... I ve been looking for the dynapro for a while... I just don t need it now. The oem itr are doing the job just fine.
You asked the difference, well, brake are a heatsink. Smaller rotor will get hotter and kill the pads sooner. True they are cheaper, but you ll have to buy some more often... Anyways, I did my homework way back and I m happy with my set up.
As for the pads choice, dtc70 works better with a slick than street tire like rs3. If you run rs3, you find it easier to modulate with the dtc60... Less lock up... But someone here will certainly say the opposite so... Have fun!
Oh and sorry if I strain some ego with your chumpcar.
You asked the difference, well, brake are a heatsink. Smaller rotor will get hotter and kill the pads sooner. True they are cheaper, but you ll have to buy some more often... Anyways, I did my homework way back and I m happy with my set up.
As for the pads choice, dtc70 works better with a slick than street tire like rs3. If you run rs3, you find it easier to modulate with the dtc60... Less lock up... But someone here will certainly say the opposite so... Have fun!
Oh and sorry if I strain some ego with your chumpcar.
Last edited by maxogsr; Mar 12, 2016 at 05:15 AM.
I do not think it will work on a larger integra hub.
Look
Below in my stl build, I had 11.1 kit
OMG another Del Sol racecar!!!!!!! dammit show me pictures....... We just bolted the DPHA on our 95 DelSol. Stock Type R driveline. 176WHP, 2400LBS. We will find out in late May if they are better then the stock VTEC DelSol setup. Still need to decide on what pad to use. Ended last year on DTC-70s. Might go with them for the DPHA since we know how the pad already works. Just need to learn the new calipers.
Haha I'll look for some
Re-read my post... I never say all wilwood products is junk... But you get what you pay for... I ve been looking for the dynapro for a while... I just don t need it now. The oem itr are doing the job just fine.
You asked the difference, well, brake are a heatsink. Smaller rotor will get hotter and kill the pads sooner. True they are cheaper, but you ll have to buy some more often... Anyways, I did my homework way back and I m happy with my set up.
As for the pads choice, dtc70 works better with a slick than street tire like rs3. If you run rs3, you find it easier to modulate with the dtc60... Less lock up... But someone here will certainly say the opposite so... Have fun!
Oh and sorry if I strain some ego with your chumpcar.
You asked the difference, well, brake are a heatsink. Smaller rotor will get hotter and kill the pads sooner. True they are cheaper, but you ll have to buy some more often... Anyways, I did my homework way back and I m happy with my set up.
As for the pads choice, dtc70 works better with a slick than street tire like rs3. If you run rs3, you find it easier to modulate with the dtc60... Less lock up... But someone here will certainly say the opposite so... Have fun!
Oh and sorry if I strain some ego with your chumpcar.
I am curious and waiting on a response to that aswell, i Recieved my EBC Stage 9 Brake rotors and yellow stuff Pads, i am looking to purchase the DHRA wilwood calipers for my Street stock 300-375Whp Turbo Integra Gsr, Daily driving, any idea if it would work? EBC Rotor+EBC Yellow stuff pads + DHRA Wilwood Brake calipers? Also if it an okay setup for daily driving? i am debating to use the DHRA calipers or the stock ones would be okay... gladly appreciate an answer! thanks in advance.
Those rotors aren't going to be any better really than oem blanks. If its an oem fitting rotor like the ebc's, then it will work with the calipers...but again, its no better than a good quality oe blank rotor.
Thanks for the info, i went with ebc thinking it would provide better stopping powerwise over the oem blanks..
What you want to look at when buying a rotor is the runout, and try to have the runout as close to oem spec as possible. More runout will lead to vibrations, and over time if runout gets worse...its where you hear the term warped rotors a lot when there is lateral runout.
Most rotors off the shelf should be in acceptable runout range honestly, its just something I look at when buying a rotor (they do vary between brands)
Most rotors off the shelf should be in acceptable runout range honestly, its just something I look at when buying a rotor (they do vary between brands)
What you want to look at when buying a rotor is the runout, and try to have the runout as close to oem spec as possible. More runout will lead to vibrations, and over time if runout gets worse...its where you hear the term warped rotors a lot when there is lateral runout.
Most rotors off the shelf should be in acceptable runout range honestly, its just something I look at when buying a rotor (they do vary between brands)
Most rotors off the shelf should be in acceptable runout range honestly, its just something I look at when buying a rotor (they do vary between brands)
can anybody, help me with the DHRA Wilwood Brake Calipers for the integra's i do not want to use the given Wilwood Brake pads instead Some EBC Pads but the yellowstuff pads i have from ebc wont work with the calipers any idea if there are more selection of pads for the wilwood calipers? thanks!
Guys i found a part number Pads that should work with the DHRA Calipers DP4039/2R EBC YellowStuff pads Wilwood - EBC Brakes is the site Look up 7812 lug mount and gives you a variety of EBC pads that can be used for the DHRA Calipers!
Has anyone run the Fast Brakes 11.8" kit for the DX/non-DC knuckles?
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic 11.8" 4 piston big brake kit
Silly me recently spent money rebuilding/replacing these (DX) knuckles, not doing my homework to realize most of the Honda based front brake's require the EX/Si/DC knuckles. ****. Bearings/hubs/labor cost money, and would prefer to keep them if it's a good solution.
EDIT: Or the 11" kit for that matter.
http://www.fastbrakes.com/ProductDet...FEG+Civic+11-4
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic 11.8" 4 piston big brake kit
Silly me recently spent money rebuilding/replacing these (DX) knuckles, not doing my homework to realize most of the Honda based front brake's require the EX/Si/DC knuckles. ****. Bearings/hubs/labor cost money, and would prefer to keep them if it's a good solution.
EDIT: Or the 11" kit for that matter.
http://www.fastbrakes.com/ProductDet...FEG+Civic+11-4
Has anyone run the Fast Brakes 11.8" kit for the DX/non-DC knuckles?
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic 11.8" 4 piston big brake kit
Silly me recently spent money rebuilding/replacing these (DX) knuckles, not doing my homework to realize most of the Honda based front brake's require the EX/Si/DC knuckles. ****. Bearings/hubs/labor cost money, and would prefer to keep them if it's a good solution.
EDIT: Or the 11" kit for that matter.
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic and 1988-1991 CRX 11" 4 piston big brake kit
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic 11.8" 4 piston big brake kit
Silly me recently spent money rebuilding/replacing these (DX) knuckles, not doing my homework to realize most of the Honda based front brake's require the EX/Si/DC knuckles. ****. Bearings/hubs/labor cost money, and would prefer to keep them if it's a good solution.
EDIT: Or the 11" kit for that matter.
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic and 1988-1991 CRX 11" 4 piston big brake kit
I had the 11inch kit, fantastic..I linke dit above, and its in my old build for my old stl car in my sig.
Has anyone run the Fast Brakes 11.8" kit for the DX/non-DC knuckles?
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic 11.8" 4 piston big brake kit
Silly me recently spent money rebuilding/replacing these (DX) knuckles, not doing my homework to realize most of the Honda based front brake's require the EX/Si/DC knuckles. ****. Bearings/hubs/labor cost money, and would prefer to keep them if it's a good solution.
EDIT: Or the 11" kit for that matter.
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic and 1988-1991 CRX 11" 4 piston big brake kit
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic 11.8" 4 piston big brake kit
Silly me recently spent money rebuilding/replacing these (DX) knuckles, not doing my homework to realize most of the Honda based front brake's require the EX/Si/DC knuckles. ****. Bearings/hubs/labor cost money, and would prefer to keep them if it's a good solution.
EDIT: Or the 11" kit for that matter.
Fastbrakes 1988-1995 Civic and 1988-1991 CRX 11" 4 piston big brake kit




