Yes, it works fine. I will run some of those tests tonight.

 

I did tests 5,8,9. It passed test 5 but failed 8 and 9. So there must be a problem with the brake switch or the wires coming from it?

 

Replaced with a clock spring that has the cruise functions? Tested for continuity on all wires? These can notoriously go bad.

Edit: Yeah if tests 8,9 are bad then this narrows it down.

 

I'm 99.9% sure we pulled the clock spring from a civic with CC. I did not do continuity tests though.

I tested the Brake pedal switch terminals for continuity when the switch was activated and deactivated... all seems to check out. I will follow up with testing more on the Grn/Wht and Gry wires coming from the Brake pedal switch.

Since the light on the cluster hasn't been working either I plan on checking the wires around that part of the CC system (Yel, Red/Blu, Red/Blk).

 

Cluster light will only engage when cruise is functional (and travelling > ~40km/h).

 

Ah, good to know. Thank you.

 

Do test #10 to find out whether the cluster CC light works properly.

There's obviously an issue with the CC brake light circuit. Start here --> Do your brake lights work?

Is the correct 4-pin brake light switch installed at the top of the brake pedal?

 

Yes the brake lights work.
Yes it is the right switch and this pictures confirms that it is functional, because the terminals showed continuity that way.
I'll do test 10 today.

 

What were the actual results (voltage readings) for tests #8 and #9 with pedal both released and pressed?

 

The multimeter showed 0V for both tests.

 

With pedal both pressed and released? The manual doesn't tell you to test both pedal positions for each test, but did you test both positions?

 

Yes I tested both positions, pressed and released.

 

If all 4 readings were 0V, then the two wires are broken.

 

Yeah I was thinking that so I did a continuity check (for grey and green/white) on both ends (brake switch and CC control unit plug) and the check was negative, so I know they are broken at some point. I will attempt to replace them tonight and update.

Also I did test 10 and the CC cluster light did illuminate. So, I am glad there's no issue there.

 

Or if there are a connector(s) in between the two points, the connectors may not be fully seated.

 

Yes, so the issue with the Grn/wht wire has been resolved. So it now passes test 9.

Also, the gry wire now tests positive for continuity, but no voltage at the CC control unit when I try test 8. So if it fails test 8 but I know gry wire is good, then it must be an open circuit in the lt grn wire. I cant find where that wire is open though.

 

I tested the lt grn wire for continuity and it seems to be fine... I am confused as to where these problems were coming from. I pulled some of the switches and stuff to check all these wires, so I guess I will just put it all back together, make sure all the connections are seated well and see if it passes test 8 and 9 now.

 

Run a new LT GRN wire from main switch to pedal switch. No need to remove original LT GRN wire.

 

Redo tests 8 and 9.

 

Its fixed! I put everything back together and replaced the LT GRN wire and its all good! I'm so stoked, it was more work than it was worth, but I was determined to win! Thank you so much for all the help Ron J. You are awesome!

 

Nice work!

 

Hey, do you have a full manual with all those diagrams and references and stuff? Normally its hard to find ones that are accurate to my car, but yours were all spot on. I'm just wondering where I could get one. I would probably have to bother honda-tech a lot less hahaha

 

I'll PM you.