I have a 97 civic with a gsr swap. After the swap I went to try and start it but the relay didn't click at all and the fuel pump didn't kick on. I've since swapped 3 ignition switches and 2 main relays into it. When I turn the key to the on position the main relay has continuity at all pins except pin 7 to fuel pump also the check engine light does not come on unless I turn the key to start then release. When I jump pin 1-7, the pump runs as well as when I jump pins 5-7. When I ground pin 8 the pump also runs. I have no idea what is going on and I'm on the verge of taking it to a shop

 

I forgot to mention I swapped the ecu into another civic and the pump primed

 

For a 97 Civic, jumping main relay connector pins 1-7 or 5-7 should not make the pump run. Jumping 7-4 or 5-4 should.





What specific ECU is installed in the car?

Does the car have an alarm system or fuel cut switch?

 

Keep it simple, first thing to do is test for the three(3) powers, unplug the relay and with a 12V test light probe the terminals in the plug, you should find one terminal that is hot at all times, ign. off and on and when cranking to start, another terminal will be hot with ign. on and when cranking to start, the last one is only hot when cranking to start.

If all good, test the black lead for continuity to chassis ground, grounded at thermostat housing. 94

 

When I jump it like that the pump turns on for both. It's a p28.
When the key is off I have the constant 12v but when I turn the key on they all are hot except pin 4

 

Bump

Could there be a short at the ign 1 wire powering everything when I turn the key on? But wouldn't the relay still click?

 

There should only be two hot leads when ign. is on, the 3rd one is only hot when cranking to start.

How are you testing for voltage?

The "click" you should hear is actually 2 clicks very close together, the fist is the fuel injector relay turning on and the second is the fuel pump relay turning on.

The fuel injector relay is turned on buy the ign. switch, either you do not have the first 12V switched power, [hot in run and start] or the relays ground is bad.

The fuel pump relay is turned on by the ECU, [ground] and the fuel injector relay, [power]. 94

 

With a test light. Well when I turn it to the on position suddenly all but one pin has power so I assume I'm getting the switched 12v. And if the ground was bad the circuit would remain open and I would still only have the 12v constant when I turned the key right? I've been racking my brain over this for 4 months I'm on the verge of replacing my dash harness.

 

If the CEL does not come on when the key is turned on, the ECU is probably not getting power or ground.

If the ECU doesn't boot up it will not ground pin 1 of the main relay to start the fuel pump. So check all the power and ground supplies to the ECU.

 

How many does it have? Looking at a pin out there's aground at a23 and power at a24

 

Again with the ign. on only two of the terminals should be hot, this is with the PGM-FI Main Relay unplugged, testing for the three powers needs to be done with relay unplugged, same with the ground. 94

 

Right. I tested with the relay unplugged. I have the 12v constant. When I switch to on all are hot but one. My thermostat ground looks fine. I'm pulling the dash off and tracing the relay wires back to the fuse box tonight

wait the ecu has four grounds and two power right?

 

You defiantly have a problem, only 1,5 and 7 should have power on them the other 3 are the ground(#3) fuel pump power, (#4) you may read a ground on it, [other side of fuel pump] and the last one is the fuel injector relays output, you may read a ground on it, [other side of valves and sensors]. 94

 

Well I checked the grounds to the ecu and they all have current as well as the power sources. I don't know what the hell is going on the cel comes on and stays on after I turn it to start but it never illuminates if I just turn it to start. I'm tracing the relay wires to the back of the fuse box now.

 

As far as I can tell the harness is fine. There isn't any burnt spots on any clips or wires. There has to be a way to solve this.

 

What are you using to test for power at the PGM-FI Main Relay plug? 94

 

A test light until last night I used a multimeter. Two pins are getting right under 12 volts. The rest are getting around 7

 

Was it a non led type test light, [the non led type is best for this kind of testing].

So I understand, with relay unplugged and ign. switch off, and using test light, you get one pin that lights up the test light but when you turn the ign. on all but one of the terminals light up the test light, is that correct

And is it an ordinary, [NOT led type] test light???
94

 

Yes it's non led. Just a little cheap one I picked up at oriellys.

Correct. The terminal that does not light up is #4.

 

Bump

 

Again, with relay unplugged there should only be 3 terminals with power, one with ign. off 2 with ign. on and 3 with ign. in crank position, if there are more then those 3 then you have a problem with the wiring. 94

 

Wanted to answer what is happening to these symptoms. You have the A and E ecu connectors in backwards. I mean A will fit E and E will fit A. I switched my around and everything is o k . As usual there is nothing wrong with your build.
Now I do have a k swap harness from EBAY. Maybe the original connectors will not interchange in A and E. But I think you also have a k swap harness. Now this will help others in the future.