Got a multimeter to troubleshoot the VTEC solenoid and IAT sensor?

 

The connector seems to have the correct Red/Yel and Grn/Wht wires. Can you verify?

 

No, the plug Im holding underneath has those wire colors. The wire plugged into the IAT is a 3 wire. I will get a multimeter tomorrow after work I guess. I gotta figure this out

 

I posted a picture of the IAT sensor location. Unplug the 3P connector on the IAT sensor and post pics of the wire colors in the 3P connector. The IAT definitely should connect to the lower 2P connector in your pic in post #20. I hope that plugging the 3P connector to the IAT sensor did not blow the ECU.

Once the IAT is connected to the correct plug, reset the ECU and verify that code 10 no longer returns. Also identify the new code that appears with the 3P connector unplugged.

The MAP sensor and TPS have 3P connectors.

 

thanks Ron. When I threw code for IAT and I checked the sensor, the 3 wire was already connected there. This means that it has been connected to that sensor for awhile now cause I bought the car like that. Interesting possibility with the blown ecu... BUT, I already reset the ECU and IAT with the lower plug plugged in and it still threw code 10. So i assumed it was the wrong plug, and plugged the 3 wire back in and reset and again code 10. Maybe the ECU is blown

 

After connecting the IAT to the correct plug and leaving the 3P connector unplugged, reset the ECU by removing the 7.5A BackUp for 5 minutes. Next start and run the engine until the CEL turns on steady. Pull codes and post them.

Also:

 

Ok, Im going to try and reset the ECU by starting the car tomorrow. The idle surge wakes my neighbors up lol. I reset twice 2 days ago with each connector plugged in but i didnt start the car and it threw 10 and 21 both times, even with the right connector plugged in

 

Convince me that the ECU was successfully reset.

Third request:

Also post pics of the TPS and MAP sensor connectors along with the wire colors.

 

 

Sorry, the connector that was plugged in was actually a two wire connector the colors are yellow/black and solid red. The other connector is green/white and red/yel which is the correct iat

 

I see only 2 wires (red and wht/Blk?). Does the red wire have a stripe? Wheres the third wire?

 

Yea, sorry, I thought it was a three wire. It is actually only a 2 wire the colors are Solid Red and yellow/black... The other connector is the proper IAT connector. So What was the connector plugged in to the IAT this whole time?

 

That's the connector for the evap system purge cut off solenoid valve, which unfortunately is known to blow the ECU when plugged into the IAT.

 

Ron, I just bought a new p28 on ebay. Ill report back once I install with the correct connector installed

 

Before you plug in the new ECU, verify using wire colors that all sensors are connected to the correct plugs.

 

Will do. In the mean time while I wait for the ECU, I would like to wire up the VTEC properly. The 2 cut wires on the VTEC solenoid, should I splice them together? None of the VTEC wires go to the shock tower, they go straight to the ECU cause the car is a 93 lx that originally had a d15

ok I checked to see where the wires were running into the ECU. Seems that they are in their correct pins, the solid blue wire Im going to wire up to the solenoid and that should get rid of code 21

 

Edited

All three VTEC wires have been cut and spliced. Only the Grn/Yel wire-Orn/Wht wire for the VTEC solenoid valve is relevant to code 21.

Do you have a multimeter?

 

When you do go to splice wires together, stop using only butt splices. If its not a solder, its adding resistance to the circuit. Control wiring + resistance = headaches. Save yourself the trouble if you have access to a soldering gun!

 

wow. Did not know this, Im going to have to learn. Im a wiring noob! Also, Im going to buy that multimeter right now

 

I made an error in my original post. It is corrected here^

Therefore, concentrate on the Grn/Yel wire-Orn/Wht wire and VTEC solenoid, rather the Blu/Blk wire-Orn/Blu wire and Blk wire and the VTEC oil pressure switch.

 

Cant get my multimeter today. Have limited funds after buying this ECU till thurs. So I decided to pull my ECU that was in the car currently that is suspected to be blown. If you look to the upper right, rp7 is all rusty and the other things around it appear to be as well

 

new ecu is in now im throwing code 22 and 7 lol. I did reset the ecu and 7 comes on only sometimes. Idle is the same

 

Did you do this:

Also post some clear pictures of the TPS and its connector and wires.

 

 

im also running a skunk 2 alpha tb and i did not calibrate the tps. could that be it?