cjheck

My civic lx with a d16z6 I bought idles like a pos when I first start it up. It starts up and idles at 2500, then when warm it will idle surge from 1500-2500 and does not stop. I bled the coolant and swapped out the fitv and iacv and when I put my fingers in the two holes inside the throttle body, my fingers still get sucked up into both of the holes. But, when I plug them at the same time the car dies. When I plug one at a time, the car idles normal.... I noticed that it has a skunk 2 pro series intake manifold with the stock d16 tb. Could it be that the stock tb is too small for the skunk intake mani?

Former User

Post the CEL codes.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...lists-1901557/

Is the engine running on a P28 ECU?

cjheck

I pulled the ecu out of the kick panel... Idk if it's a p28, but judging by how this swap was done... Probably not?

cjheck

lol i see it is written in marker "p28" ok time to test

mk378

FITV may be stuck open. The FITV is supposed to be fully closed except right after starting in cold weather (coolant temperature < 60 F).

If you unplug the IACV it should close and stop sucking air through its intake. If ECT sensor is faulty or not hooked up, ECU will think the engine is cold and command IACV to idle it fast even though it is warmed up.

cjheck

I unplugged the iacv and the pos has like a mini surge from 1100-1300 like its cammed. The ftiv is fully closed i already checked it

Former User

cjheck

Ron Im waiting for the battery to charge, then i will pull the codes. my battery phantom drains constantly and im just trying to sort out this whole electrical bs going on with my car. The swap done was done very poorly

mk378

WIth the IACV unplugged and the FITV closed it should slow way down or stall. Air is getting in somewhere else.

Former User

You're spending a lot of time on an idle problem, but you haven't pulled the codes. You may get key insights into the idle problem and about the poor swap from the CEL codes. Pulling the codes is simple and doesn't require a special tool, so nothing is stopping you from doing it.

Also, do any cluster warning lights remain on with the engine running?

Parasitic drain troubleshooting:

cjheck

ok, codes 10 and 22 have shown

cjheck

changed iat sensor, cleaned my fitv again and made sure it was screwed down all the way, cleaned iacv, and im still getting a lot of suction through the throttle body holes.... Still idles terribly high and still surges.

Former User

Is code 10 now cleared? Is the VTEC solenoid connected? Post pictures.

Did you adjust the FITV? No air should be pulled through the TB FITV hole when the engine is fulled warmed up.

When the FITV is working properly, next adjust the idle speed. See FAQs sticky.

cjheck

cjheck

is something improperly wired? Still throwing 21 and 10. FTIV is new and i torqued it down completely. Still sucks in air when warm...

Former User

What year Civic?

What color wires are the VTEC solenoid and pressure switch spliced to? Post pictures.

Also post pics of the IAT sensor and its wires.

Adjust it. See FAQs sticky.

cjheck

its a 93 civic. The vtec solenoid and pressure switch are those grey and green connectors, right?

there apepars to be a blue 12 gauge wire just dangling there, but it's connected to the ecu

Former User

Does the VTEC Blu/Blk wire change to an Orn/Blu wire at 14P connector C102 on the right shock tower?

Do you see an Orn/Blu wire at ECU connector pin D6?

Does the VTEC Grn/Yel/Blk wire change to an Orn/Wht wire at connector C102?

Do you see an Orn/Wht wire at ECU connector pin A4?

Former User

Where is the pic of your IAT/TA sensor and its connector? The 2P IAT connector should have Red/Yel and Grn/Wht wires.

cjheck

cjheck

First pic, IAT and the 2 plugs that both plug into it

Second pic, VTEC wires spliced weird. Green plug plugs into thermo housing and to 2 wires that run to the ecu. The blue wire is disconnected. Do i splice it to the unconnected Grn/blk wire on the grey plug?

Former User

Is the IAT sensor connector fully seated?

The cut Blu/Blk wire coming from the green VTEC solenoid connector is almost surely the cause of code 21. What wire (colors) is the Blu/Blk wire now spliced to?

Post a pic of connector C102.

I don't see this^

cjheck

cjheck

The grn/yel wire is disconnected (on the grey plug) and the blu/blk wire is also cut too. None of the wires go into the shock tower wires. They run straight to the ECU

cjheck

IAT is seated, but I think the wrong plug is plugged into it