This is looking to be a great build I'm thinking of doing something similar but with a b16a when i get the funds to play with it. I know its not turbo related but what size rims and tires do you have because i got my car and it has 15inch Acura rims on it. I'm having a rub problem when taking turns not a major problem but I'm just trying to avoid it as much as i can. Any help is great thanks again guys.

 

What offset?




I ended up raising the car up to play with the suspension and see how the car rides. It had no rubbing issues when it was lower, but the spring rates sucked for street driving. It has 195/45/16 tires on it now, but I've got plenty of clearance and room to go wider. I plan to run 215 or 225 width. There is a small spacer for the front wheel clearance, but even without it I don't have rub. Enkei wheels, I forget the model.

 

I'm not too sure what the offset is but the code for the tire is 195/65R15 but the guy who I bought it from has a different tire on every rim I guess he wanted tread for spring summer fall and winter >_<

 

Well, while mocking up the cast manifold I got, the wastegate looks like it won't clear the hood.. It's too tall of a wastegate, too fast forward and upright on the manifold.

I decided to just get a miniram and downpipe combo from Go-Autoworks, and placed my order. Called up Greg and asked him about a timeframe.. I should've planned this out a little bit better and ordered earlier. I didn't expect a 3-4 week turnaround.

 

that's typical wait time. Many creators and distributors are no longer in the position to have mass-customized products just "waiting on the shelves" for the convenience of potential customers that may happen to walk through their store, either physically or virtually. It's expensive and a waste of time and material to operate that way when you're dealing with a small segment of the automotive community.

It's now standard operating procedure. So, this is why many ask to "research" and plan ahead because of that very possibility.

Cast manifolds have their place, but you must be able to have some adaptability for using 90 degree elbows and other materials to make it fit properly, even if it isn't pretty. This especially goes for those manifolds that utilize 2 bolt flange style wastegates as part of the cast.

Even a tubular log would have more flexibility than its cast counterpart. So, for the turbocharger you've chosen, the mini-ram isn't necessary as a matter of function, but does look nice. Be SURE that it can fit in the cramped spaces of the EF chassis, because it does take a lot of real-estate, and also be aware that your oil return line will need to be completely reconfigured to work with that manifold, because it DOES make the turbocharger sit rather low, in which oil back-up issues may occur within the oil return line line, if the right equipment isn't chosen, regardless of turbocharger company

Just making note as to what to be aware of for future reference

 

Thanks for the tips. I was thinking about all of this when I was piecing it together, but I really did have a backwards process of planning and ordering. I started this project with low budget, bought a kit, and have been replacing the majority. Decided to just build it correctly and not look back.

As far as the manifold wait, I understand. Just in time manufacturing makes the most sense. Especially for what you point out, but also the number of different configurations offered.. I'm guessing your turbocharger production follow the same principle? I guess I just didn't figure the volume of work he'd have, and other factors to get it to me.

Hindsight is always 20/20.

 

Its pretty typical for go auto. I had the same wait time a year ago

 

Okay yall are right up my ally here lol. I'm in the process of wanting to rebuild my Jdm d15b. It's got the d16z6 head. An I want to build it for a turbo. Can anyone tell me what rebuild kit I need for this engine?

 

You don't. You build it with aftermarket components at that point.

It's best to create your own thread here and not use bergercurtis's as a launching pad.

 

S300 finally! Going to get familiar with it while the car is still N/A and go from there. I wish my buddy at the machine shop would move his feet a little on my block. Head is done and clean. Mostly just checks, as the block has run with the current components. I'd just prefer to have the shop assemble the block as I don't have a stretch bolt torque gauge or much experience (or confidence) with checking P2W, end gaps and the works.

 

congrats man

 

Carbon synchronizers, M Factory LSD reman Synchrotech L3 Si FD trans!

Just waiting on my head at the machine shop now and I should be ready for the build. My friend has been dragging his feet. Couldn't get some of the valves to seal after the 5 angle, and hasn't redone them yet.. I probably shouldn't have taken a Honda head to a Mustang building machine shop though.

 

I got the same trans from synchrotech for an absolute steal 2 years back as they had it on the shelf built and the customer backed out so I bought it, probably the best thing I feel Ive purchased for my car.

I run mine on Pennzoil/GM Synchromesh for daily/light track, did they give you any advice on fluids?

 

Torco or OEM. I'm wondering if I should use any additives for the LSD, but I know it's the helical and not clutch style so likely not. Does yours have the carbon lined synchros? That's another place I feel like OEM may be different fluid needs.

 

Finally got my Go-Autoworks manifold and down pipe! This manifold is heavy as hell compared to my old one. Definitely a huge difference in build quality.

 

I had the same manifold from Go-autoworks, it is quality. Should never crack on you.