I got a sleeved block piston and rod combo package deal for $1800

 

yea i think i need 2 per bolt/stud. I have 1 set of the spacers... wonder if I can get away with two in the center for now... untill i make something...

 

She got some paint on her! Only had the booth for 1 day when it was not raining. Then today it was hailing and raining... lol

Anyways. all interior and jams are done. Still have to do the external body. Currently working on wiring harness and trying to get all the stuff back in it. Will update soon.

 

made some spacers for the intake manifold to fuel rail out of valve guides... not sure what ones these are but they are def brass... anyways...

I cut according to size, then drilled out the hole to compliment a 10mm bolt...

now I am going to paint them black.

Also working on wire tuck. Trying to keep heater, so fuse box relocation may be challenging. I am going to delete all airbags and try to mount fuse box under PWJDM airbag delete tray...

 

Brake lines are also in , was going to do a tuck..... but what if it leaks?... so i decided not to. ABS deleted with custom bend to ABS brake MC.

 

question

I am attempting to do wire tuck.

Currently on drivers side but i know the DIY forum states to DEPIN the connectors... I think I am just going to cut and re-solder and shrink wrap it.

Before I start, is there anything I need to be aware of?

I am going to tuck inside the .... sub chassis? and come out through the apron.

 

What are you going to use for extending the wires?

 

This is what I did its holding up just fine no problems I did mine about 3 years ago. I had an extra Wiring harness laying arround so thats what I used to extend the wires that way everything was the same gauge and quality

 

I used 16g wire.

I finally finished the wire tuck and I have some tips that I learned I would like to share. You only have to extend the wires a little bit at the ends (maybe 8-10 inches). I cut the low beam and high beam clips and then fished the entire harness through the 1 inch hole from the cabin side, through the tunnel, then re-soldered and heat wrap shrinked.

I did have to de-pin the ground plugs only.

It did not take as long as other stated.. once your in there you kinda isolate the wiring that your going to use and then work from there.

 

I know I am going to have to go back in there and reconfigure the wiring for the JDM HID headlights... I ordered the passwordjdm.com harness but it doesnt support the HID headlights without modification to the plug. I may need to add power and pin it to the plug but , still have some more research to do.

 

Do yourself a favor and grommet those holes. Constant vibrations will eventually cut through the harness, and it'll be a bitch and a half to fix. It might happen two years from now, but save yourself the headache now while you still have it apart. Simple rubber grommet.

 

ty , ordering now

 

**** that's a good point

Man i'm probably gonna **** up so much **** on my build lol

 

It's one of those silly little things you learn the hard way. In my case, I had fed the master power line through my firewall for my battery relocation, and hadn't grommetted it correctly. Everything was OK, until one day...the fuse popped. And kept popping every time I installed a new one. Inspected the wire, and the firewall had cut a nick in it, just enough that the wire was grounding out on the firewall, and poof goes the fuse.

 

OK i need some clarity. I have searched and read the wiring diagrams but I need to just clarify if what I am doing is correct on the wiring harness for the JDM HID lights... (see pic)

So i still need to pin the bottom of the brown plug for the low beam/ HID plug on the headlights.. this means I only splice the hot wire off of the low beam plug on the USDM harness? Just checking. ALSO, what would be the correct way to get the corner signal lights working. I have A the USDM plug or B the JDM plug with bulb. I have both available. I read that you can modify the little USDM blinker bulb socket to work with the JDM headlight housing.

ALSO the spare 2 wires coming off of the harness... one is used for fog and the other is for town/city lights (Im assuming to be parking lights)


http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...rontWiring.jpg

here is what I currently have setup for the plug harness

 

Is it ok, to run the fogs(yellows) with the parking lights as far as wiring/fuse/load goes? If thats the easiest way, i dont mind running it this way. I deleted my left side cruise control button for the AEM wideband O2 sensor mounting location, so i feel the fog light button is out of the question.

 

update on progress... many hours of work..... the hood just may need to be scrapped for a CF hood, i dont know if I want to put in any more time on it. It is a large surface area and to get it 100% is going to take alot more time. I bought it from an import company here in the bay area and there was slim pickens on parts... SOOO ... time to start assembly.

 

Looks clean man.

 

baking in that hot cali sun

 

Nice! I'm really digging the color although I bet the pics do it zero justice. I'll be watching for the finished product..

 

I used this guide to wire up my JDM lights. It was quite thorough. It only took 6 seconds with the right keywords.

JDM Headlight wiring setup


To show you I'm not lying.. My personal TA car.




Hope this helps.

 

Nice color

 

Shodan, is it necessary to use the relays? I thought I have seen the install done without the relays and using a PWJDM jumper harness... just that last pin in the center needs to be spliced in because it is not wired into the plug....

 

I used the relays. They were there, and I'm sure the PWJDM jumper harness will do fine, but since they were there, I used them. I can't tell you anything further from that.

 

just to verify, the oil restrictor for this borg warner s360 should be a 1/4" npt to -3?

(T3/T4 Oil Restrictors)