supersilverdc2

hey all,

I have ordered so far:

Block

RS machines sleeved 84mm open deck LS b18 obd2 block
Skunk2 rods
Supertech 9.5:1 84mm pistons

WHAT I HAVE

Head
Gsr head tapped for LSvtec in current running car (stock new intake valve and guides, needs exhaust valve job)
skunk2 IM

turbo
Garrett 5bolt t3/t4 .60ar basic journal bearing turbo (in running car)

Fuel
rc 750cc injectors
255 walbro

Exhaust
Exhaust is a log style manifold
3" spoolin downpipe to open y pipe /stock exhaust no cat for cops
QTP exlectric cutout

Boost control
Greddy profec 2

Once the block comes In I will send the rotating assembly to be balanced.

I am probably going to need to upgrade the exhaust manifold and intake manifold... I will get the s300 and move away from Chrome. I am on somewhat of a budget, however I do work and have a decent job, therefore I can save for things I dont have. I will more than likely do all that I can to the block and head so that I dont have to remove them again...

Was thinking about getting the block Time serted to strengthen where the head studs go, what do you think? I have cracked some blocks with the ARP head bolts at 55 pounds where the headstud goes in closest to the oil dipstick....

Just curious to get some constructive criticism before I move forward. Ideas on what I should or should not do for reliability, and to cut cost where i am able.

accordturb96

time serted?? Are you oiling the bolts before installing and using a half decent torque wrench?

cleansi

as long as your threads are clean you have nothing to worry about.

accordturb96

I would imagine having the cut out exhaust could create issues with tuning assuming you have a muffler and cat. Opening that dump up would create a lean issue I would believe as per the hondata tuning guide ive seen. maybe someone who has one can vouch on the change it creates

accordturb96

and if you're planning on 400 im sure the stock exhaust system aint gonna fly haha so instead of spending 200 on a cutout why not invest in a good system? Im sure the increase is minimal if you arent running a cat and are using a high flow muffler

supersilverdc2

I usually run the exhaust open... only have the stock portion to close it when i run past the cops here on CAli..... i use the arp high torque fastener lube. The only torque wrench i have is craftsman... :\ ... i just bought a new one.

Im wondering if 400hp is achievable with the log mani and the intake mani.....

accordturb96

might be a stretch but anything is possible with some good tuning

supersilverdc2

sleeved block pistons and rods just in!

Question for you turbo pros....

??? what is your target clearances that you use if the car is intended for a DD at 400hp. I am reusing a crank that I have in my current motor in running condition that was very tight.. .001 i think.. Should i go with looser clearances or is tighter the better way to go?

Im not going to be reving to 9k very often, more like 8 or 8200


I usually use a 10w40 weight because of the turbo and some people say go with a heavier weight like a 20w50. I am just worried about the clearances.

Let me know what you think..

m4xwellmurd3r

I would shoot for around .0018 mains, and .0018 rods. I have my engine at .0018 mains, .0022 main3 (requires more clearance) and .0015 rods (ordered 1 size too tight but its still fine) its not boosted yet but I run 5w-30 and have 75psi@3k rpm at operating temps. By 4k I have 80psi+ (roughly the spring relief pressure)

Idle is 20psi

Choose oil weight based off operating pressures. If 5w-30 is too thin, step up to 10w-40, etc. You want. To have 10psi per 1000rpm MINIMUM

Btw, I plan on shooting for close to 400hp on my build too. Probably rev out to around 8500 if the head can make the power

supersilverdc2

goood info, thanks.

ek9_beast

The exhaust system is just a bad idea other than that these guys have u on track. Good luck reaching that goal with the log manifold. Again, exhaust seems to be a weak spot although crazier numbers have been put down with log manis

supersilverdc2

I agree, I am currently looking into a ramhorn, this one:

SPfab StreetPower, Spoolin Performance

I know Phil does good work, I have ordered from him before.

This means if I order this mani, my downpipe would need to be modified, not sure if the shop can do as clean of a welding job as Phil, but we are going for functionality and trying to save some cash where I can, not cosmetic at this point.

Schister66

SPoolin definitely gets from me. My first setup was a SPoolin log combo.

Another option to the ramhorn is the Prototype1 mani. I used to run an SLS prototype manifold back in the day - rather than 4 long runners, it has 2 long and 2 short. Idk if that really makes any appreciable difference in spool / power, but I did it to because everyone had a ramhorn and I wanted something different ... I was all hipster before it was cool

Root of all Evil

Fwiw I'm using a spoolin log so I can fit a full size triple core rad. Making 450whp with t3/t4 60trim on 94oct. Low heat signature and very compact but you lose some horsepower for sure.

supersilverdc2

Dam son, maybe I don't need a ram horn after all... I will be running 91 only because that's what we have here on the west coast .......

blackeg

just curious what it cost to get the block sleeved. you can pm me if you dont want to post it up.

i would go for around .0015 on the mains, maybe closer to .002 for the #3. rods i would try to get to .002 give or take, i would not run a rod less than .0015 ive personally seen that tolerance wear the middle of the upper bearing out very quickly.

what grade aluminum are those pistons? depending on that your ptw will probably range from .003-.004"

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't run a p2w less than 0038. Most of the high power motors I've seen at 0035 have horrible skirt scuffing issues.

ek9_beast

I've always made my p2w clearance based on hp goal such as .0035 for 350hp or .0040 for 400hp and so on to an extent obviously. Anybody else run their p2w like this? I have never run under .0035 but just curious

Dallasb84

My gsr motor had ptw in the .005 neck of the woods. Idle the JE pistons would slap. But under load it was smooth and quiet. Rings were gapped according to JE for nitrous/turbo.

Reliable motor. Didn't smoke.

For the bottom end I cleaned the crank and used the same (new) bearings and thrust washers.

ek9_beast

Street car? And how long was it together if so?

m4xwellmurd3r

No, because different piston material will require different p2w tolerances. Running .0035 p2w on a piston that needs .0040 or more for your build will cause them to scuff since the material may expand more vs a piston that can run them tighter.

Always go by what the manufacturer suggests

ek9_beast

Thanks for responding. It took a lot of research to really decide with vitaras. People are running crazy p2w clearances but glad I specd my supertechs. Appreciate the advice.

supersilverdc2

straight from the website

Alpha Series Rods are forged from select 4340 chromoly steel and feature a straight H-beam design, resulting in the ultimate strength-to-weight ratio. 4340 chromoly is one of the strongest materials available, however, not all 4340 chromoly is the same. As such, Skunk2 relies on extensive material testing and works closely with its foundry to produce high-quality rods at an affordable price. Comprehensive heat-treating, tempering, and shot-peening processes together ensure that each Alpha Series Rod remains consistent and strong. Finally, each rod is magna-fluxed to ensure integrity and that each process has been completed thoroughly and according to Skunk2’s rigid specifications.


they are the 306-05-1130

supersilverdc2

the supertech pistons are as follows

Bore: 84mm
Compression Height: 30mm
dome height: -3.1mm
Dome: -10 cc
Valve pocket depth: INLET(5.6mm) EXHAUST (4.5mm)
RINGS: GNH 8400
TOP: 1.0mm
2ND: 1.2mm
OIL: 2.8mm
====================================
Min CLEARANCE: .00275 (.07mm)

"Supertech Pistons are manufactured from extruded high silicone, enhanced 4032 alloy (with additional Cu, Ni & Mg) that had low thermal expansion, excellent wear resistance and higher thermal conductivity. Supertech Pistons, with this alloy, have withstood up to 42psi of boost, with alcohol, without any problems.

A two or three step forging process yields a fine structural grain which are then submitted to several machining steps in state of the art CNC machines.

Several heat treatments provide the piston with high tensile strength and evenly distributed hardness.

Contact reduction grooves are standard, and pin bores are honed and reamed for precise fit. Wrist pins are constructed of cold extruded chrome moly steel for high strength and used with wire clip locks.

Finally, the pistons receive a ‘phosphate dry lubricant’ coating to protect the rings against ‘micro-welding’ and enhance lubrication on the skirt/cylinder area.

Compression ratios are computed with .030” head gasket and .010” deck unless indicated in each case."

STATES if doing break-in deduct .0004" (.01mm) (i guess this means me)

now on my way to the ole hardware store to get an engine hoist.

will post more pics as I go.

Dallasb84

It was a daily driver mostly. I put 40k on it turbo'd for two years. As far as I know the only things that were change was a turbo and tune. I put it together back in 2010.