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93 Del Sol Si (5 speed)
D16A swap (OBD-1)
223,5XX on the shell
Well im in the process of fixing my cluster, which turned into sorting out the hack job wiring of the previous owner. So far I have found half *** wired indiglo (which i removed half of and rewired the other half to keep it from blocking the srs and cruise lights). A random black wire from the distributor to the cabin. That plus hack job wiring just electrical taped to make the altezzas work... also wire nuts on the stereo....
First things first, cant seem to find a pinout for my TD-42 dist. He spliced into the blue wire pictured, any idea why? The wire just hangs under the dash...
Secondly the indiglos are wired directly into the hot side of the cluster fuse so they turn on simultaneously. Im going to buy a fuse jumper to make it a little less half ***. Should i buy a 15amp fuse instead of the stock 10 for the jumper since the cluster and indiglos run off the same fuse? Is there a better way?
Not even touching the tailights or stereo yet
My cruise control worked, but the bulb was out in the cluster. I replaced the bulb and now the light wont turn off. Pulled the cluster back out and will update as i troubleshoot this part more. (cluster is missing the twistlock for the seatbelt light, maybe related?)
If blue is the tach im just going to remove the black wire and heat shrink where he spliced in... weird part is theirs no signs of a secondary tach ever being installed in the interior...
The red wire goes to the box for the indiglo cluster running off fuse 19, its black counterpart is grounded locally to a bolt under the dash.
From the 12v sources you mentioned, what would be the best source for gauges. Use C918 as my hot?
The indiglo faces, sorry should have been more specific. Trying to reroute the hot currently connected to fuse 19, which comes from the control box of the indiglo covers. While still having them come one with my cluster lights. The cluster itself is all stock wiring.
I hooked into C918, worked like a charm. Clock still dims though, oh well.
Distributor wire is also cleaned up.
Now onto the cruise control. The cluster bulb was dead/covered so i replaced/uncovered the bulb, and now it always on. The cruise control works, steering wheel controls all work, bulb on the cruise control switch works. The strangest part is when i turn on cruise control the cluster light gets brighter. When turned off the light is still on just dimmer...
The clock light dims when the lights are turned on, sending voltage from fuse 19 to the clock. If you cut/severed the circuit board wire (red arrow) that only supplies fuse 19 voltage to the clock, the clock would no longer dim.
I located the cruise control unit under the dash, but its plug seems to go towards the fire wall and its pretty buried. So i tried from the cluster end.
Is this the plug where the cruise meets the cluster? Im probably wayyy off..
Tested from C509 pin 16 to ground (steering column) and didn't get infinite resistance. Floated in the 1000ohm range, this means there is a short correct?
Really dont want to dig into the harness :sigh:
Gave the wiring a visual inspection, following it back to the fuse box. Nothing looks amiss
After vigorous testing I finally solved the problem.
I got my leds in the mail to convert the rest of the cluster lights today. Put them all in, looks awesome. One problem though now i have a CEL, pulled the code. Code 0 thats really odd. This is where i noticed it wasn't a CEL, but it was behaving like the cruise light. Staying on steady and getting brighter when it got power, like it was shorting.
Switched back to standard bulbs in the CEL and cruise, both problems solved.
I think those lights need the resistance of a standard bulb in order to function properly. I tried two different types of leds on both these sockets and they both stayed steady. Feel like a derp for not trying this sooner.