deschlong's restoration of a '93 Si Hatch - lots of OEM goodness
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Above you
As an aside, I spent most of last night rooting through boxes and bins looking for my EDM side markers that I've had on-hand since ... ohh, 2010? I have 2x sets of JDM ones but I prefer the EDM ones. For most of this time I've known exactly where they were but at some point I decided to "clean up" and subsequently misplaced them. Oh, the irony, I KNOW. Anyway, found them finally after 11pm - persistence paid off.
way to go! I wish I was as calculative as you... are you planning on stripping all the paint down or just color matching the replacement pieces?
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Above you
Plan is to get all the parts ready to then take the whole car in for paint. I'm off to Europe at the end of next week so if I can leave it at the body shop while I'm gone and return to a nice painted ride, that would be perfect.
Imagine all the cars being parted and wrecking yards ripe for the picking, if only you could carry on a bag full of parts...lol
Build looks like its going good man! Have a good trip and thanks for that visor brother..
If u find anything good over there lemmie know?? (Headlight washers for eg) lol
If u find anything good over there lemmie know?? (Headlight washers for eg) lol
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Above you
Update from Germany: Not a whole lot of Hondas here. Did see two 5G Civics ... a coupe and a hatch, on the same day even. But the roads are dominated with domestic Mercedes, BMW, VW, Audi. Honda is way down the list, even after Toyota.
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Progress! Returned from Europe last week, and finally got to get back to the project. I'm leaving on a big road trip next week so the pressure is really on to deal with a few things. Biggest news is...... REAR COILS ARE IN.
It was an all-day job from 11h00 to 21h30 straight. Biggest pain was the passenger side LCA bolt at the trailing arm. It was seized solid in the bushing, but not in the weld nut thankfully. Regardless, it was still impossible to remove with an impact because the rubber bushing would just absorb the force of the impact and nothing would happen. My solution, after numerous other options were exhausted, was to pick up a MAPP gas torch and burn out the bushing rubber. This left the inner sleeve which was able to spin freely and let the bolt unscrew but you still can't get it out since the sleeve is fused to the bolt. However, there was a wide enough gap to get in my 5" grinder and cut the far end of the bolt. Then I put some vise-grips on the sleeve to hold it fast and purposely snapped the head off the bolt (not many times you can say you want to do this on purpose). Popped right out. Success!
Remarkably, all other bolts could be removed. Well, not the ones at the shock but these don't really matter since I had replacement LCAs. Part number for these is the same as an EDM ESi/VTi (non-ABS), and these have the mount for the OEM rear sway bar.
Remainder of the time was spent on disassembly of the old shocks, removal of some components for re-use, and installation of new ones, etc., etc.
This was possibly the most painful and most urgent upgrade I had to perform; my rear passenger shock was totally blown. I was dreading doing it for a considerable amount of time. But, since I knew beforehand what I was up against I had given a lot of thought to plan how I was going to tackle it. All in all, though, it was lousy, but it wasn't horrendous. And I'm very pleased now that it's done!
It was an all-day job from 11h00 to 21h30 straight. Biggest pain was the passenger side LCA bolt at the trailing arm. It was seized solid in the bushing, but not in the weld nut thankfully. Regardless, it was still impossible to remove with an impact because the rubber bushing would just absorb the force of the impact and nothing would happen. My solution, after numerous other options were exhausted, was to pick up a MAPP gas torch and burn out the bushing rubber. This left the inner sleeve which was able to spin freely and let the bolt unscrew but you still can't get it out since the sleeve is fused to the bolt. However, there was a wide enough gap to get in my 5" grinder and cut the far end of the bolt. Then I put some vise-grips on the sleeve to hold it fast and purposely snapped the head off the bolt (not many times you can say you want to do this on purpose). Popped right out. Success!
Remarkably, all other bolts could be removed. Well, not the ones at the shock but these don't really matter since I had replacement LCAs. Part number for these is the same as an EDM ESi/VTi (non-ABS), and these have the mount for the OEM rear sway bar.
Remainder of the time was spent on disassembly of the old shocks, removal of some components for re-use, and installation of new ones, etc., etc.
This was possibly the most painful and most urgent upgrade I had to perform; my rear passenger shock was totally blown. I was dreading doing it for a considerable amount of time. But, since I knew beforehand what I was up against I had given a lot of thought to plan how I was going to tackle it. All in all, though, it was lousy, but it wasn't horrendous. And I'm very pleased now that it's done!
Build is looking great, I've been reading through your thread, haven't read everything in detail yet. I've always been a fan of those rare OEM options! It's funny you mention the 1.6l vtec valve cover from Acura El, my EL has the cover and didn't think anything of it. Did all first generation Acura EL come with this cover? Good luck with the build!
Deschlong, did you get the car painted yet?
Nice work so far...make me miss my 5th gen. I just did a similar suspension swap on my track car, so I feel your pain.
fm
Nice work so far...make me miss my 5th gen. I just did a similar suspension swap on my track car, so I feel your pain.
fm
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From: Above you
Hi all,
Back home from 5 weeks' vacation. Car treated me mostly well save for that CEL which I mentioned previously. It progressed from a Code 1 to a Code 43, meaning "Fuel Delivery Problem". This caused some minor headaches seeing as I was in a fairly remote northern Canadian city at the time, and did require a tow. Earlier while on the road I replaced the Oxygen Sensor, but this did not clear the code. So, after the dreaded 43 showed up, I set about replacing the FPR and the fuel pump. Fuel pump turned out to be the source of the problem and have since driven 2,500km without further issues. Fixed!
Back home from 5 weeks' vacation. Car treated me mostly well save for that CEL which I mentioned previously. It progressed from a Code 1 to a Code 43, meaning "Fuel Delivery Problem". This caused some minor headaches seeing as I was in a fairly remote northern Canadian city at the time, and did require a tow. Earlier while on the road I replaced the Oxygen Sensor, but this did not clear the code. So, after the dreaded 43 showed up, I set about replacing the FPR and the fuel pump. Fuel pump turned out to be the source of the problem and have since driven 2,500km without further issues. Fixed!
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From: Above you
In hindsight, I should have suspected a Code 43 even though the ECU was indicating a Code 1, because I was having driveability problems (stalling out). Simply a bad O2 sensor wouldn't (I suspect) cause this ... and I would be suffering poor fuel economy, which I was definitely not. Live and learn now, I guess!
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Had a little incident last week which I'd like to share:
After returning from my 5-week road trip I had to head out on a field trip for my job (I work in Environmental Consulting). Well, I had a brand new battery sitting in my trunk which, unbeknownst to me, had tipped over on the drive to work of the morning I left. So, after a week away, I came back to a puddle of sulphuric acid in my trunk. Yay! But, you know what saved me? My EDM Optional trunk box liner contained the whole mess and damage was extremely minimal. To those who don't know what I'm talking about, I mean this thing:

Only thing that really happened was the non-slip mat at the centre came unglued. So, after the mess was contained, I was left with lingering sulphuric acid fumes in my car, so what better time to install the JDM Optional Air Refiner? Pics of this up soon. Also, today I installed a new gasket for the VTEC solenoid. Old one was leaking oil like a sieve.
After returning from my 5-week road trip I had to head out on a field trip for my job (I work in Environmental Consulting). Well, I had a brand new battery sitting in my trunk which, unbeknownst to me, had tipped over on the drive to work of the morning I left. So, after a week away, I came back to a puddle of sulphuric acid in my trunk. Yay! But, you know what saved me? My EDM Optional trunk box liner contained the whole mess and damage was extremely minimal. To those who don't know what I'm talking about, I mean this thing:
Only thing that really happened was the non-slip mat at the centre came unglued. So, after the mess was contained, I was left with lingering sulphuric acid fumes in my car, so what better time to install the JDM Optional Air Refiner? Pics of this up soon. Also, today I installed a new gasket for the VTEC solenoid. Old one was leaking oil like a sieve.
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From: Above you
JDM Optional Air Refiner installed ....


Naturally, I also put in a brand new OEM filter:
Naturally, I also put in a brand new OEM filter:
Thread Starter
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From: Above you
... also found two Civic VX 13" rims at the junkyard today. $15 each. Good to have a couple spares.
Didn't think those filters was still available?
I do also have a EK air refiner to be mounted in my EG. Does it bolt right on in a EG or does it need some modifications?
I do also have a EK air refiner to be mounted in my EG. Does it bolt right on in a EG or does it need some modifications?
Thread Starter
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From: Above you
Yes, the filters you can still get from Japan. Would be fairly easy to custom order your own, though, if you know the dimensions.
Installation is a breeze, and the moonroof model requires even less hardware than the non-moonroof model, though I have all the correct brackets for both. You will need to adapt the 5G Civic connector at the dome light to the 6G connector which uses a different style to plug directly in to the refiner unit. I had previously grabbed a pigtail from a 6G Hatchback which made things that much easier.
Installation is a breeze, and the moonroof model requires even less hardware than the non-moonroof model, though I have all the correct brackets for both. You will need to adapt the 5G Civic connector at the dome light to the 6G connector which uses a different style to plug directly in to the refiner unit. I had previously grabbed a pigtail from a 6G Hatchback which made things that much easier.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Above you
Update from today: Bronze glass is in on the doors, plus for the hatch glass. Windshield was already bronze. So, four of six panels are now changed over, huzzah. The bronze rear quarter glass won't go in until after paint.
Also retrofit the hatch glass hook which my '93 of course did not have. So much better now.
Changed oil and filter yesterday. 5W30 synthetic and a DENSO filter.
Also retrofit the hatch glass hook which my '93 of course did not have. So much better now.
Changed oil and filter yesterday. 5W30 synthetic and a DENSO filter.







