Work in progress

 

when you guys run a shielded wire to the dizzy, where are you grounding the shield, at the dizzy or the firewall, mine is a simple 12 volts in, coil trigger signal out,which now goes to the MSD, and the dizzy body has a separate ground, which is also the ground to the igniter, i have to replace the harness to the dizzy anyway, I finally found the .187 flag spade connectors, to replace that harness. I figure with the MSD it's best to go ahead and run that wire shielded, I had some 18 gauge two conductor shielded cable, so I'll run the dizzy with that,

 

You ground shielded wire on one of the existing ecu or thermostat grounds brwn/blk wire

 

well some people ground one end and some people ground both, I would think both would create a ground loop, Ill probably put my cannon plug on the inner fender away from the high voltage lines feeding the coil, and as far away from the wires as I can get,, I have a ground from the frame to the valve cover, so I'll ground the dizzy there, I dont have any kind of ECU, Im more worried about the trigger wire going to the MSD picking up inductive voltage and causing a misfire, the voltage from the box to the coil is something like 600 volts

 

No need to ground both ends. Factory only grounds 1 for a reason.

 

your almost correct and on the right path
yes it will creat a loop of sorts but not a ground loop
it would create an inductive loop not dissimilar to a transformer
and then induce a dirty power / signal to noise ratio
with a minor EMF depending on wire type "tinned"

 

Hey guys,
i have an electrical issue after relocating my battery in the trunk on my EK. my alternator was bought new in 2005 and used the car for 1 year then i had to garage her for years after the engine blew. so in 2012 i started rebuilding the engine and relocated the battery to the trunk so i can install the T1 catch can. here is how i routed the battery cables:

1) battery + to starter using 2gauge cable
2) starter to fusebox using 8gauge cable
3) alternator charge + cable was left stock that goes to the stock fusebox
4) battery - cable to the rear seat belt bolt using 2gauge cable
5) TB and valve cover grounded using a JDM ground kit that doesnt state the gauge size, but it looks like 6gauge
6) transmission and engine block grounded using 4gauge cable

* note:
all body paint is sanded to ensure metal to metal contact

Issue:
when i start the engine cold i get 14.1-14.3v on idle during enrichment and even when engine has reached working temp. i drive the car around and the voltage is fine. once i park the car somewhere and leave the car idle for for 5-10mins, the afr suddenly goes rich and notice the battery voltage has dropped to 13-13.4v. now i'm running two fuel pumps inline and i can notice fuel pressure drop when voltage drops. by the way both fuel pumps are running off a relay that is connected to the fusebox where alternator charge is found.

questions:
1-what should i check or do?
2- should i replace the alternator even though i bought it brand new in 2005 (has only 14k miles on it)....i have the alternator always on as i'm using hondata (both alternator control and ELD is disabled)...is this how short the alternator life when working full power?
3- should i replace the stock alternator cable with an 8gauge cable?

i wanted to start a new thread but i have noticed everyone is directed to here when having this issue.

 

The way you have your cabling sounds fine. Take the alternator and have it tested.

 

will do, but before removing the alternator can i still know its the issue by keeping a multimeter connected to the alternater charge cable and ground point and see if the source really drops?

when i asked the pricing of an OEM honda alternator there is a huge difference between a remanfactured alt or a new Denso one, which one should i consider if the alternator is an issue? my car is turboed by the way

 

13.4 isnt bad, I thought these cars were supposed to reduce the output of the alternator under light load, thats one reason they have the ELD if the electrical load isnt calling for full output some of the field is reduced, this means the alternator takes less energy to turn,saving gas.

 

i am using hondata and both ELD and alternator control are both disabled from the software so my alternator should stay 14.1-14.7 or even close constantly in all conditions

the drop goes down down to 13.4-12.2v, which is not good at all as i have two racing fuel pumps running off the fusebox (alternator charge point) and my tune depends on this voltage to maintain a constant fuel pressure.

 

how old is the alternator? could be worn brushes

 

my hatch sorry for the crappy pics

 

nice shock tower work

 

I like the short ram, too!

Thumbs up.

 

that color is legit!

 

Blue hatch is looking good

Ive always been a fan of the black VC with Kevlar against it

 

its brand new used for 1 yrs only! i bought it in 2005, in reality its 7yrs old
so you'd recommend to replace the brushes and regulator? is it an easy job to do at home?

 

wow, that eg looks very nice!

 

thanks,,,the pictures suck its hard to get the color with a cell phone picture but its sea foam green

 

Looks outstanding. The shock tower mods are very well done.

Please get some better quality pics up of that bay!

 

where did you get it? some of the brand new ones are **** out of the box

 

I like that Shock Tower Bar you have....Specs? Looks good...keep up the work!

 

Looks like a Password:JDM piece

 

Looks like a Password:JDM

sure is