DIY 96-00 Honda Civic Tune up and fuel filter
Great work! I always like a good write-up with pictures. 
I was trying to remove my distributor rotor this morning but couldn't get access to the screw. I tried to turn the ignition key but it seemed the rotor didn't respond at all.
Any ideas?
I am gonna try tomorrow. Hope it will not snow

I was trying to remove my distributor rotor this morning but couldn't get access to the screw. I tried to turn the ignition key but it seemed the rotor didn't respond at all.
Any ideas?
I am gonna try tomorrow. Hope it will not snow
The Haynes manual says that part of relieving fuel system pressure to change the fuel filter, that I must remove the back seat and remove the electrical connector from the fuel pump. I noticed you didn't do this and I was wondering how necessary it really is for changing the filter.
Thanks for the very detailed tutorial!
Thanks for the very detailed tutorial!
Great write up.
I've done this on a few 99-00 civics. Two common problems I find are the bottom fuel filter bolt is seized on. PB blaster and a 3 foot extension bar won't even budge it. As a last resort one can use a small pipe cutter and some high pressure flexible fuel line, and 4 high fuel line clamps and make a new bottom piece that is far easier to work with, and won't crack as easy.
Also, sometimes the Distributor Cap bottom bolt seizes, and as they are made of aluminium the bolt sheers pretty quick. If it happens, have no fear. Remove the air intake manifold, and get a #21 (.159" Diameter) HSS drill bit and drill into the middle of the sheered bolt. Get yourself a 10-32 metric tap, and re-tap the hole slowly. You can start with a tiny drill bit to get it relatively centred.
Doing this minor maintenance is cost effective, and your car will feel like it is brand new. I cannot believe the difference spark plugs and a new rotor/distributor cap makes.
I've done this on a few 99-00 civics. Two common problems I find are the bottom fuel filter bolt is seized on. PB blaster and a 3 foot extension bar won't even budge it. As a last resort one can use a small pipe cutter and some high pressure flexible fuel line, and 4 high fuel line clamps and make a new bottom piece that is far easier to work with, and won't crack as easy.
Also, sometimes the Distributor Cap bottom bolt seizes, and as they are made of aluminium the bolt sheers pretty quick. If it happens, have no fear. Remove the air intake manifold, and get a #21 (.159" Diameter) HSS drill bit and drill into the middle of the sheered bolt. Get yourself a 10-32 metric tap, and re-tap the hole slowly. You can start with a tiny drill bit to get it relatively centred.
Doing this minor maintenance is cost effective, and your car will feel like it is brand new. I cannot believe the difference spark plugs and a new rotor/distributor cap makes.
Great write up.
I've done this on a few 99-00 civics. Two common problems I find are the bottom fuel filter bolt is seized on. PB blaster and a 3 foot extension bar won't even budge it. As a last resort one can use a small pipe cutter and some high pressure flexible fuel line, and 4 high fuel line clamps and make a new bottom piece that is far easier to work with, and won't crack as easy.
Also, sometimes the Distributor Cap bottom bolt seizes, and as they are made of aluminium the bolt sheers pretty quick. If it happens, have no fear. Remove the air intake manifold, and get a #21 (.159" Diameter) HSS drill bit and drill into the middle of the sheered bolt. Get yourself a 10-32 metric tap, and re-tap the hole slowly. You can start with a tiny drill bit to get it relatively centred.
Doing this minor maintenance is cost effective, and your car will feel like it is brand new. I cannot believe the difference spark plugs and a new rotor/distributor cap makes.
I've done this on a few 99-00 civics. Two common problems I find are the bottom fuel filter bolt is seized on. PB blaster and a 3 foot extension bar won't even budge it. As a last resort one can use a small pipe cutter and some high pressure flexible fuel line, and 4 high fuel line clamps and make a new bottom piece that is far easier to work with, and won't crack as easy.
Also, sometimes the Distributor Cap bottom bolt seizes, and as they are made of aluminium the bolt sheers pretty quick. If it happens, have no fear. Remove the air intake manifold, and get a #21 (.159" Diameter) HSS drill bit and drill into the middle of the sheered bolt. Get yourself a 10-32 metric tap, and re-tap the hole slowly. You can start with a tiny drill bit to get it relatively centred.
Doing this minor maintenance is cost effective, and your car will feel like it is brand new. I cannot believe the difference spark plugs and a new rotor/distributor cap makes.
Tackled this job today on my 93 Civic Si hatchback. Thanks for the write-up.
However, the one glitch I ran in to was that my rotor was seized on to the shaft. I got the screw off OK, but the rotor would not budge a single iota. There is no good way to try to pry it off because you are just prying against the plastic dust cover (I tried this to no avail, but knew to give up before possibly destroying other parts of the distributor).
It seems that this is a problem occasionally for people but nobody ever posts the answer to how they finally accomplished removing the thing - aside from saying 'just use brute force', which is not very specific.
Well, after trying a few different ideas, here's what I did that finally worked. Just a warning, though, that this process will destroy your old rotor. First I sprayed the thing with plenty of Kroil (rust penetrant). Then, take a LARGE set of vice-grips and grip the rotor on the top and bottom. This will crush the rotor and break the plastic. When this happens, re-set the vice grips again and again until you have a firm grip on the thing. Then, take a hammer and pound the snot out of the vice grips to break the rotor loose off the shaft. Ta-da! You've made a mess of the old rotor but at least it's off.
However, the one glitch I ran in to was that my rotor was seized on to the shaft. I got the screw off OK, but the rotor would not budge a single iota. There is no good way to try to pry it off because you are just prying against the plastic dust cover (I tried this to no avail, but knew to give up before possibly destroying other parts of the distributor).
It seems that this is a problem occasionally for people but nobody ever posts the answer to how they finally accomplished removing the thing - aside from saying 'just use brute force', which is not very specific.
Well, after trying a few different ideas, here's what I did that finally worked. Just a warning, though, that this process will destroy your old rotor. First I sprayed the thing with plenty of Kroil (rust penetrant). Then, take a LARGE set of vice-grips and grip the rotor on the top and bottom. This will crush the rotor and break the plastic. When this happens, re-set the vice grips again and again until you have a firm grip on the thing. Then, take a hammer and pound the snot out of the vice grips to break the rotor loose off the shaft. Ta-da! You've made a mess of the old rotor but at least it's off.
How about "Use any means necessary/choice of tool to break the old rotor off"?
D16Y8 PCV replacement
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=68638
D16Y7 PCV replacement
http://m.civicforumz.com/showthread....8925&styleid=6
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=68638
D16Y7 PCV replacement
http://m.civicforumz.com/showthread....8925&styleid=6
D16Y7 PCV replacement
http://m.civicforumz.com/showthread....8925&styleid=6
http://m.civicforumz.com/showthread....8925&styleid=6
The 17mm bolt on top of the fuel filter will not come off for me! I undid the fuel cap to release the pressure, and I've tried dousing it in pb blaster, going at it while holding the 14mm underneath with a wrench, and hitting it with a hammer all to no avail. Any suggestions?
^ Yeah: Impact driver. Either air or electric. I can almost guarantee it will be the only thing that gets it off.
The 17mm bolt on top of the fuel filter will not come off for me! I undid the fuel cap to release the pressure, and I've tried dousing it in pb blaster, going at it while holding the 14mm underneath with a wrench, and hitting it with a hammer all to no avail. Any suggestions?






