First of all I wanted to give thanks to the following people:

Tou - P.R.E
Keep in mind I only have 6 people who I completely trust with my friendship, cars & money and Tou is one of them. I’ve known him & his younger brothers since Jr. High. Thanks for walking me through this engine build and sharing your knowledge.

Jordan – Jordantuned.com
Of also one of the 6 friends who I trust & care about. I’ve known for 8yrs. He’s always has my back making sure I don’t chew off more than I can handle when it comes to Hondas.

Pat – R.D.R
Same as above, one of the guys that I met 8yrs ago which we just seemed to connect well.
He’s always coached me along the way just like tou & Jordan. Pat is probably the best “teacher” I now when it comes to drawing things out & explaining how things works in simple terms. I’m still waiting for him to jump back in the game when he’s ready.

Chris & MAP
MAP provided the best rock bottom pricing & has flexible dyno hours.
Buy doing this, it helped us greatly with the our B20 rebuild goals & data collecting.





This is my brother, Alex’s motor car which was rebuilt after his jdm b20b I swapped in spun a bearing only after 8 months of heavy abuse from Alex. I use to have a build thread on mnhondas but I didn’t see any benefit to it due to fear of theft.

Nonetheless, I still wanted to show what can be accomplished with simple parts and knowledge. Before you ask my why I didn’t do B20V, I’ll just say because my little brother doesn’t deserve it yet. He needs to learn to appreciate how to make power before I just hand it over to him.

The plan was 2stage build:
1st stage is B20 rebuild with cams 155-160whp
2nd stage will be small turbo to hit 270-280whp = coming end of 2012




Here is the break down of general parts used:


JDM B20B 8.8:1cr (84x89)
ACL race bearings mains & rods ***MAP***
ARP rod bolts *** MAP***
ARP head studs *** MAP***

JDM B20B P75 head
Milled head - P.R.E spec to raise compression from 8.8 to 9.7cr
RDR “Pat” race spec 5 angle valve job (no porting)
Delta 272 cams
Rocketmotorsports spark plugs
Rocketmotorsports snap-fit valve springs
Stock seats & retainers
Ebay cam gears
Blox intake manifold & B18a1 58mm throttle body
Ebay Tri-Y replica header “small tube” 2.5” collector
2.20” crush bent exhaust piping





Baseline pull vs. last pull
Jordan came over 9pm Wednesday to provide base map & 20mins of street tuning. We put it through a few hours of driving & made sure he engine sealed up well 215psi across the board.


Alex’s B20b vs. jdm B16a2 (decent header, intake, exhaust & tuned)
This is why I dislike b16 for NA. Most people pay $1900-2200 for a jdm b16 swap + money for bolt ons and still doesn't have a usable powerband. IMHO I'd only build a B16a NA as a practice car lapping/drag or teaching my sons how to drive cause those suckers never seem to die or hardly spin bearings.


Alex’s B20b vs. my b18c1 gsr
This is back during 2009 MAP dyno day in the summer.
GSR with skunk2 IM, gsr tb, hondata gasket, stock header, 60mm rsr full exhast. Back when we swapped in the BONE STOCK B20B (no header) 6500rpm redline, Alex's DA B20 2550lbs still killed my EF Si GSR 2300lbs in any racing conditon up to about 80-85mph in 4th. I know this new motor would certainly kill most GSR swaped civic up to 100mph.



The final results speak for themselves.
You don't need a lot of money or fancy parts to make good power.
Don't chase other people, do reasearch, ask good questions and be realistic about what you can do financially & I promise MAP will help you out with best pricing on parts.





I'm no expert or not saying this is the only way to build it.
I'm just sharing you what we've done and you can take what you want from it.

I'm very pleased with the results & we were able to stay within budget.
This should be the standard of what budget NA b-nonvtec motors build should comprise of. Too many times I see people waste money on the wrong parts.

Considering b20b dyno at 128-130whp and 120tq
We spent
$160 on cams
$75 cam gears
$165 valvesprings
$170 header
$80 used block intake manifold

$650 in aftermarket parts for gains 35whp gains and 20tq is money well spent.

 

here are some pictures of the build





reason for the tear down..... spun oem bearing cause rod bolt was loose





Ebay



Milled


Honed stock rods




delta 272










RMS - snap fit to oem retainers

 

b20 in a DA!! thats wut im talkn bout

 

Very nice -- Great build congrats to you and your friends!

 

thanks guys... this was a budget build for my kid brother so that he could start learning from my past mistakes and not waste money on parts which don't make the power. lol

 

Glad it made good power, degreeing the cams in showed they were decent sized. I will keep you posted about what we can do to get more power outta her I am sure its already a fun dd with that powerband but there's some more power left in it.

 

Vtec head!!!

 

lol..other than that that would make it too easy right!?

 

If Pat is involve, you in good hands!

 

Nice. I wish the torque curve in my CRV's B20Z looked like that.

 

thanks guys

 

What were the cost of parts and labor I highlighted in red that you omitted? Valve job and head mill is not free for the majority of folks saving pennies for their motor build. Same goes for race bearings, rod bolts, head studs. While the bearings/bolts/studs don't directly give gains, they allow the motor to rev to the 7500rpm safely that you show in your charts.

A very impressive build shown for your total parts invested. Very much shows that with proper research and parts selection you can build a great budget motor with good power that will last.

 

Wow thats ****** sexy no need for vtec!!!!

i like the way those headers came out...Can you tell me the vinder you got them from???

 

great power man.Enjoy that thing now

 

If the motor had not spun bearing then with the milled head and bolt on it would make a great motor.

$99 = ACL race bearings mains & rods
$20 = ARP rod bolts
$90 = ARP head studs
$150 = 5 angle race valve job (includes refacing valves) Pat's my good friend and he did his own port work on his 277whp 2.2bvtec setup.
$18 = RMS spark plugs
$40 = milled head
$0 = ghetto crush bent exhaust was already on the car when we got it.
$0 = labor was free
$0 = tuning was free


Thanks for the feed back fellas.
I leared a lot from this build and may try to find a better way to make more power with less money but still not sacrafice reliablity & qaulity.

 

What are the specs of those delta cams? seeing your also from MN, I too also have a cammed B20, but no where near the power you guys put down. Good stuff!!! You guys are putting down 10-15 ft lbs more torque than I am across the whole rpm range. I do notice the Dip between 6000-6500. What I don't see, is the dip usually found @ 4.5k-5.5k rpms. Your power holding steady to 7.5k. Overall, I love it.

lol, I will stay away from you. you will totally own me. AND I spent way more than you guys....(sucks for me.

 

Always niec to see some good comparisons from one setup to another Thanks for sharing!!

 

if your not on mnhondas.com get on there.....

well to be 100% honest, i'm not happy with the delta cams. I was expecting them make power to 8k... but i got them on group buy for $170 shipped so it wasn't too bad of a return on the money.


what's your setup?
maybe i can help.
I've learned a few things myself from this build.
next week we are dynoing a "simple" b20v so we'll see what she puts down.

 

Hey man im looking to do a all motor b18b build i dont know where to start i want it to be clean motor i guess honed milled or whatever i want it to be stock pistons maybe like p30 or something maybe crower cams a aftermarket intake manifold throttle body maybe ..... all the arp head studs and bolts ...( sorry im new to this building stuff) Please Help if you can and i was wondering what a typical build with honing and machine work and cleaning the motor would be with labor as far as just building the motor i can put in myself thanks anyhelp would be great

 

Owning a DA and having a low HP "build"... I'd probably consider killing myself. Power increase is great for money spent though so props on that!

 

One question, why go with 2.20" piping after the 2.5" collector? Was it just what was available or was it something you tested out and liked the ending result...?

 

yes i hate DA...
i'm a ef guy...

But he bought the day with out my imput and so I gotta work with what he has. he's my kid bro. lol

Also he's a stop light to stop light racer and I'm setting his car up for that so that he'll be able to hold his own with stock ITR or b series swapped civics (even in his da).

Once boosted with his gearing he really shouldn't loose to boosted gsr/b16 car when racing up to about 120mph.

So low whp is considered high hp for a kid that doesnt know much about cars. I have to give him the power in stages for him to fully apperciate.

 

My ITR completely stock put down 173WHP and 124FT LBS and mind you 1-3 with a 4.7 final drive really moves for its power level. Gearing is a torque multiplier. Slap the basic bolt ons and a tune on a ITR and it should be in the 180's for HP and 130's for torque.

 

oh i completely understand what your saying.
Alex has a s1 tranny with 4.4fd
so his gearing is up to part with itr gearing just different final drive.

So he can hold his own with most your mild itr setups
I couldn't imagine alex's complete being destroyed by 3-5cars...
but then again this is a B20b so if it keeps pace with a itr motor with 1k less in rpms, 2-3K less in engine/bolt on cost... I don't mind losing.

*** back to tech info ***

yeah i build this setup for my brother as a learning curve.
I figured it would help may new members and also some old members who may have thought about trying it.

IMHO in the future I would try use BIGGER cams.
Delta 272 are IMHO a little too small
They make power but with today's technology it's not all that impressive.

Seeing that the compression is still 9.9cr (approx).... larger cams would carry he power longer and make just a few more whp but they wouldn't begin to shine unless i tossed in some +12cr pistons.




[SIZE="3"]
New Rocketmotorsports cams... just for me to try out... lol

They have 232* duration intake at 0.050” and 212* duration exhaust at .050”






like i said before, the results are great but not yet happy until i know the cams are degreeded in, larger TB than the dinky 58mm and portmatched....


Delta 272





RMS cams