♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠
Before


After




I miss this setup
Looks good man!! Yeah just spending time on actually getting in there and cleaning it can really change it up... Ill admit painting it makes it look really nice and i couldve gone that route and nothing against any people that do cause like i stated before sometimes a motor has just seen alot of love and is way past too dirty to not paint it so it looks nice but i prefer to have the natural aluminum if possible. I just think it says alot when the aluminum itself is nice and clean.. But thats just my opinion and what i choose to do. If mine had not of cleaned up i had some engine paint ready to go also LOL!!
im actually thinking about stripping the paint off of mine and starting over.
Eagle One Mag wheel cleaner works wonders on raw aluminium
Eagle One Mag wheel cleaner works wonders on raw aluminium
Im just taking my time to go over every nut and bolt and clean or replace everything while im doing the tuck... Heres where im at with my bay. Got one more brake line to make but playing the waiting game for the fitting cause its that weird 12x1.00mm to 3AN that is hard to find...
To get back to a factory finish on the tranny case and block has any one used a sand blaster? Obviously there would be a very large amount to mask off but I think the results would be worth it. I think blocks that have been scrubbed clean just dont ever look that great......you can just always look at them and tell they were dirty where as media blasting would give a more uniform factory finish.
To get back to a factory finish on the tranny case and block has any one used a sand blaster? Obviously there would be a very large amount to mask off but I think the results would be worth it. I think blocks that have been scrubbed clean just dont ever look that great......you can just always look at them and tell they were dirty where as media blasting would give a more uniform factory finish.
Ive done alot of sandblasting and even making metal gaskets wont keep the little sand pieces from getting through it. So masking tape def wont it will just cut through it like a hot butter knife. Also sand blasting has a tendency to leave a very dull finish across aluminum. I agree however that is would clean it up nice just doesnt seem like its worth the work of full disassembly IMO.
M10*1.25
i need your help....i'm trying to do the tuck harness to my hatch 89 SI. I bought a B16 OBD0 engine with PW0 ecu and pigtails, but i need the wiring diagram, where i can find it or some idea and i don't know what is the size of the heat shrink tubing that i can use and how many ft.
On the clutch lever I see you have two bolts on the counterweight. When I was cleaning my 90 Si tranny, I had one real bolt and one plastic bolt. Of course when I tried to remove the plastic bolt it snapped off at the ends of the threads leaving some in the lever. How did you manage to get the bolt out and how would I go about getting out the remaining plastic bolt piece?
ANplumbing.com has them...
They only carry the 12x1.00 to 3 AN straight adapter not any banjo bolts unfortunately. I wanted to move to a ITR booster and M/C but just decided to use my GSR setup but like everything on GSR's it has funky stuff here and there like the one odd size on the M/C.
Im looking for a throttle cable pulley to replace mine on my GSR throttle body so i can run the cable across the manifold using the ITR cable holder does anyone know where i might be able to pick up just the pulley without getting the entire throttle body??
They only carry the 12x1.00 to 3 AN straight adapter not any banjo bolts unfortunately. I wanted to move to a ITR booster and M/C but just decided to use my GSR setup but like everything on GSR's it has funky stuff here and there like the one odd size on the M/C.
Im looking for a throttle cable pulley to replace mine on my GSR throttle body so i can run the cable across the manifold using the ITR cable holder does anyone know where i might be able to pick up just the pulley without getting the entire throttle body??
use a sohc pully? i have a few and the p73 bracket if you need it....shameless plug lol
is the fitting anplumbing has, IF on the 12mm side? pegesus racing has a 12mmx1.0 IF to -3an adapter for $16.99
i need it to adapt a -3 braided clutch line to the factory clutch line union on a eg fire wall
is the fitting anplumbing has, IF on the 12mm side? pegesus racing has a 12mmx1.0 IF to -3an adapter for $16.99
i need it to adapt a -3 braided clutch line to the factory clutch line union on a eg fire wall
use a sohc pully? i have a few and the p73 bracket if you need it....shameless plug lol
is the fitting anplumbing has, IF on the 12mm side? pegesus racing has a 12mmx1.0 IF to -3an adapter for $16.99
i need it to adapt a -3 braided clutch line to the factory clutch line union on a eg fire wall
is the fitting anplumbing has, IF on the 12mm side? pegesus racing has a 12mmx1.0 IF to -3an adapter for $16.99
i need it to adapt a -3 braided clutch line to the factory clutch line union on a eg fire wall
some are convex flare and some are inverted flare

the inverted flare is what we need to seal to our seats
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...D=PLUMADAP12MM
$17 jeez
i know its around, but got a part # on the earls fitting?
Edit: 23 pages of looking thru the brake line tuck thread and I found it.
305-03M121 -3 12mmX1.0 12 MM X 1.0 male bubble flare to -3 male steel
idk if that bubble flare will seal to a Honda MC?
the inverted flare is what we need to seal to our seats
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...D=PLUMADAP12MM
$17 jeez
i know its around, but got a part # on the earls fitting?
Edit: 23 pages of looking thru the brake line tuck thread and I found it.
305-03M121 -3 12mmX1.0 12 MM X 1.0 male bubble flare to -3 male steel
idk if that bubble flare will seal to a Honda MC?
Last edited by CBEengineering; Mar 9, 2011 at 06:41 PM.
On the clutch lever I see you have two bolts on the counterweight. When I was cleaning my 90 Si tranny, I had one real bolt and one plastic bolt. Of course when I tried to remove the plastic bolt it snapped off at the ends of the threads leaving some in the lever. How did you manage to get the bolt out and how would I go about getting out the remaining plastic bolt piece?
Have you tried a bolt extractor? Any autoparts will carry a set
more pics silver was a base coat we where goin to use love the way it came out but the the candy didnt look good so we went with purple with some pearl.

On the clutch lever I see you have two bolts on the counterweight. When I was cleaning my 90 Si tranny, I had one real bolt and one plastic bolt. Of course when I tried to remove the plastic bolt it snapped off at the ends of the threads leaving some in the lever. How did you manage to get the bolt out and how would I go about getting out the remaining plastic bolt piece?
IF YOUR REFFERING TO MY TOWERS JOEL CUT THEN AND RAIED THEN ALL EQUALLY AND WE LEFT THE TOPS FACTORY SO THEY WOULDNT STAND OUT I SEE ALOT OF PEOPLE DOIN THERE AND PUTTING SQUARE TOPS OR ROUNDED CAPS IN THERE WHICH LOOKS GOOD BUT WE WANTED THAT CLEAN FACTORY LOOK









