grab oem calipers i bet you bought some cheap offbrand. they always warp. oem rotors last longer and perform better.

i had an accord that warped the rotors twice with autozone rotors oem rotorsfixed it. also my uncles accord rotors were warped and did what you said. shaking hard when braking only. we changed rotors problem fixed. if you have a lifetime warranty on the rotors like most offbrand autozone ones than just get them replaced for free

 

I'm looking at OEM 5th gen calipers. just need to know if they will work with my 4th gen.

 

the calipers are prob fine. if they work they work. if they dont work they are seized.
you can check easily. push the piston down and check the bolts if they are seized

 

No idea what your getting at here.
but I found my answer. the 4th gen vtec and 5th gen base calipers are the same.

 

your rotors could have been warped, b

 

It is more than likely your wheel bearings that is what I changed on my accord when I had this same problm after replacing rotors twice

 

it happens to me also!

 

its your rotors man, had similar problem in my civic. finally upgraded to slotted and cross drilled. 2 years later no more problems.

 

Hey guys, this is my first post. Thanks for the info already posted on wheel shake. I have a 91 CRX and wheel shakes at 60 t0 68 mph. When you put on the brakes (the harder the more pronounced) it feels and sound like the whole car is going to shake apart. After reading the various solutions already posted I wonder, if the shake has been going on for some time could it be that the shake which started because of one problem (brake rotor, stuck piston etc.) could it have caused new damage like to the sterring box/rack and pinion?

 

Ok, here's the deal. It's really really simple, but most people can't put 2 and 2 together.

First of all, whenever you put your tires back on, it's completely imperative that you not only do NOT overtorque the lugnuts, but you also have to tighten them evenly. When you have a place work on your car and they take the tires off, normally some jackass decides to use the air ratchet to put the lugnuts back on instead of a torque wrench and what happens if you get 150 lbs or more of torque while your car only needs 80 lbs. Also, it's completely uneven through all four lugnuts. Then you get in the car and drive it and when the rotors get hot from braking they bend slightly in the most vulnerable spot on your rotor and your rotor is done for it. You will notice that when you leave the mechanic all is well until a day later. Remember that your rotors get extremely hot so it's expanding and then when ur car sits it contracts back as it cools. This essentially bends rotors as they expand and contract with the extra torque from the air ratchet.

Furthermore, when you have your rotor turned, all that's happening is that they are taking a slight amount off of the rotor so that it's not as bad. Turning rotors never helps warped rotors. It's not possible because the rotor is alway slightly bent. It can help make it so that the pads brake in properly but that does nothing for the fact that it's warped.

An easy way to verify is that your rotors are fine when they're cold, but when you drive them for a bit all of the sudden the vibration starts up because the rotors get hot and expand into their warped position.

So, in conclusion, always insist they use a torque wrench, or just buy your own from Autozone for 30 bucks and do it yourself when they give the car back to you.

 

Thanks holmesnmanny, I haven't really thought of that before. I mean, I do get the rotor being warped causing wheel shake but I never thought about the fact that if the lugs were pulled too tight that it in itself would cause the warping and the fact that if that is what casued the probled that the warp itself would be throughout the rotor and not just confined to the pad surface contact area. Makes perfect sense.

 

Just to bring closure to this thread:
Just installed brand new pads and rotors along with some rebuilt 5th gen calipers.
The shake is gone! Finally!

 

Just making but instead of replacing the whole axel y not just get a new cv shaft. It's a little chore to replace but lots cheaper just did mine both for under $100

 

i have this problem but only braking from 45-30mph... I've ruled out tires/brake pads/ rotors because I replaced them all and it did nothing for me. and I did the work myself since i use to work at discount tire... and if it was any of these I would get a vibration the whole time i press on the brakes.

when i replaced the brakes i didn't find any inconsistencies in the brake calipers so i doubt they are seized... but i guess i could check again.

From reading this thread i have gotten that it could be a bad hub bearing/ lose rack and pinion/ bad tie rods/ or a slightly bent axle, but how do i check for any of these except the bad bushing since I know what a bad bushing looks like. Am I checking for a tie rod or axle with cracks in it?

this may be wrong but what about the shaft that connects the axle to the transmission? I don't know what it's called, but what if over the years all the torque exerted on it has caused it to warp and be a little out of line. Would that cause vibrations when your on the brakes or would it cause vibrations when you are off as well?

thanks for the input guys!

 

Get the wheel off and just grab and start shaking things. If it shakes at the tie-rod then you need to tighten it up. If the rotor moves then you need to tighten the torque bolts. If you spin the wheel and there is play then it's the bearing, but normally you'll hear a roaring sound if the bearings going out.

 

Sounds like loose suspension joints and uneven/warped rotors.

 

SHAKE SOLVED! I can see where other things could have casued this issue but here is the Real Problem that caused mine (1990 CRX). I bought new aftermarket OEM type rotors. I took them to a local shop and he drove the car first. Then he looked at the tires. Two things were going on for sure: 1. The tires showed no damage or uneven wear at all. However when you ran your hand across the tire and felt of the surface while going around the tire you could feel uneven spots on the inside of the tires. 2.It caused me to question the condition of the struts. I found the rear right leaking oil. Replaced the rear struts. In the process I found the right rear stabilized bushing broken which probably caused the damage to the practically new tires.

So the rotors on front were warped and the tires on front were out of round but looked good. Replace front rotors, front tires and rear struts. The shake is gone, none at any speed or any braking condition or hard and fast turns..its gone. The car feels like it gained 10 HP!

BTW- I also solved the rear hatch support water leak! It was the body sealant/caulking at the top of the hatch. No more leaks!