I am rebuilding my b18c1 i have 2 cranks to choose from, my ITR crank needs a micro polish as i can catch my nail on a few spots, My GSR crank is mint, i will be around 520 whp and reving to 9500 max on CTR cams. if i can use teh GSR and save some money on getting the ITR polished i will but if you think the ITR is needed for the rpms then i will get it polished.

 

is there even a difference in the two?

 

You will be fine with the gsr.

 

Which crank came with the block ?

It's recommended to have the mains line bored when you change cranks.

Any thought's there, miller ?

 

LS is where its at

 

I've never weighed them, but aren't the ITR cranks a little heavier? Not sure were i read that though.

 

Yes the ls crank is my choice of crank when it comes to the b series engine. Yes you can rev it, i am tired of seeing people say that you cant rev an ls crank. I use ls cranks in my personal engines and all my big power shortblocks I sell to people. I just do my little modifications to them which is nothing major and they work. I rev my car to 11,400 in first and 2nd gear and have no ill effects. I am on the same internal shortblock parts going on the second season. The only thing i did this winter was fresh bearings and rings and back together she went.

I do NOT recommend line boring honda blocks unless needed. I like to use virgin blocks to assure that the main caps belong to the engine. I will check the main cap alignment on an engine I am building before it gets sleeved. I am also a fan of stock main cap bolts as i have never had an issue with them once you switch to arp studs you HAVE to align hone the block. Just because you are switching the crank you do not have to align hone the mains. As long as the mains are straight and the block is straight you will be fine. If its not broke no need to go messing with it.

Some engines that already have the mains bored and align honed are tricky to work with. I just think its unnecessary work from all the engines I have done over the years.

 

Good info there, short and sweet.

Thanks Mr. miller

 

11,400RPM. Sweet Jesus.

 

People have said the same thing about his 8.86

 

exactly what my engine builder does, Watts machine. He's the guy that does the machine work on Tony1's builds.

Im guessing the block still is stock sleeved.

 

yes the ITR is balanced for higher revs, you can see the holes drilled into the counter weights, the GSR has non, but since you guys say the GSR is fine and it came from the block i am using i will just go with it and sell the ITR crank. incase some of you missed my other thread i blew up my motor saturday, cyl 3 shattered. that cyl has been burning oil for about a year so i knew it would detonate eventually and i turned the boost up so it was only matter of time, i been wanting to get a block sleeved but i couldnt see sending out a virgin block to get sleeved, and now i got a cracked one to send out who has the best prices on sleeving?

 

Justice race engines in VA is pretty good

 

Call Rob Adkins at Golden Eagle, he'll take good care of you.

 

i wouldnt worry about who has the best price when it comes to sleeving a block.

go w/ Jim Justice, he's close enough to where you are so you can drive there and he does the best work in the area.

 

 

Miller and his "mountain motors" lol

 

Thanks for the info, Miller.

 

miller so you just buy new oem main bolts,rite? and you feel that main studs compromise the main caps from seating properly.

 

Once you switch to a stud then you have to align bore/hone the block. There is no way around it. The bore is ALWAYS out of round after switching to a stud. The reason is the arp studs call for a 75ft.lbs ( not exactly sure off the top of my head.) trq. At this point it dissorts the bore and you then must make it round again or you will have main bearing issues. Now I have seen people try to be crafty or think they are being crafty by only tourqing the arp studs to the factory settings. Well that doesnt work nor does it do anyhting more then a stock bolt. My recommendation to all is to stick with the factory main caps and bolts until you exceed their limit.

Its one of those things where "if it aint broke, dont fix it" I have yet to have main bearing issues or break a crankshaft from spinning it to high or making to much power. I guess it could still happen eventually but I just dont see it happening right now. Maybe once I get some better air up here in the north east and I can make big boost we might run into something but I just dont see it.

 

wow............................................... .........

 

 

alrite i understand what your saying. on my next block im gona go and jus buy a new ls block and crank. third times the charm rite?

 

i am in the process of building my motor and i need a ls crank, but i dont know wich one to get, a friend recomended a golden eagle micro polished crank but i cant find out where to order it if yall mabey have some advice or pointers that would be great...

 

Robert@goldeneaglemfg.com

Email Rob Adkins, tell him I and rota92 sent you, he'll take care of you.