since they are both b series blocks i was wondering if the b20 had thinner sleeves than the b18b? if so the b18b is a stronger block then right?

 

b20 has thicker sleeves but have design flaws that can cause cracking easier then the thinner b18 sleeves.

Dont be scared to boost a b20 tho, if tuned correctly on moderate boost (less then 20) Ive seen them last a while. A friend of mine has been boosting his on 18psi for 3 years and Ive boosted 2 of them for a years time. I sprayed the same motor on a 100shot for 2 years before boosting also. Another friend has been at 11:1 compression spraying a 150shot for 2 years also.

Ive seen B18's crack a sleeve on a solid tune that didnt have a good timing tune. That was on only 10psi. But Ive persoanly ran 25-26psi on a stock sleeved LS in the past and it lasted for almost 10 months. Cracked a sleeve in 4th gear because of running only a 1/4 tank of gas w/ a walbro.

 

ok, well i was thinking about building up an ls vtec but i can get b20 blocks for cheap so it would be nice to get something with a little more displacement. thanks

 

will all the parts from a b16 bolt onto the b20? i was going to use the ls for that reason. but if all my lsvtec parts will fit the b20 then ill go b20

 

parts? as in?

Honestly you can get a sleeved 84mm block for cheap now'a days. Its great insurance for your motor. If you plan on going LSvtec or CRvtec i would recommend sleeving and rods/pistons. That way you can actualy support some decent power that the vtec head will alow you to have. I made 374whp on 11psi w/ my sleeved CRVtec last year and on 26psi it was nuts. But if you dont plan on goin w/ serious numbers then stick w/ like a stock B16 turbo or stock LS turbo.

 

i had a b16 turbo and i now have an ls turbo. i want to boost more so im thinking about going forged. i dont really want to make anymore than 350. that is good for me. i have the b16 sitting in my basement. i was going to use oil/water pump from there and then the b16 head on that b20 block. and then buy the golden eagle kit with studs. then new rods and pistons. stock bore is 84mm right??

 

This might be a dumn question but what do you mean by good timing tune I'm going ls turbo on a stock motor and needed some help sorry not trying to jack a thread

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had a b16 turbo and i now have an ls turbo. i want to boost more so im thinking about going forged. i dont really want to make anymore than 350. that is good for me. i have the b16 sitting in my basement. i was going to use oil/water pump from there and then the b16 head on that b20 block. and then buy the golden eagle kit with studs. then new rods and pistons. stock bore is 84mm right??</TD></TR></TABLE>

b20's and 96+ b series motors come factory w/ an ITR oil pump.

I would boost the LSvtec w/ B18b bottomend but not the b20. B20s are great to boost but when pushing a lot of power, the slightest amount of knock can destroy the motor.

The LS bottomend can usaly take much more abuse w/o causing failure of the setup.

But if all you want is 350whp, why not do it strait LS? w/ rods/pistons its very doable. Plus at 350whp you'll have ALOT more TQ and it'll more fun for the street. Just sell the Vtec head and use the money to buy ROds/PIstons for the LS w/ ARP head studs.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xvietxkhmerxboix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This might be a dumn question but what do you mean by good timing tune I'm going ls turbo on a stock motor and needed some help sorry not trying to jack a thread</TD></TR></TABLE>

because A LOT of tunners dont go on what they know. Most go on what they hear others tunners say is "safe". Motor A and Motor B might both be the same, but B may want more timing then B and if both ran on the same timeing A could be knocking. If you have a setup w/ slight knock.. what do you think will happen when you get a bad tank of gas, a big swing in air tempature or anything that can put more knock on the motor.

A good example of this is all the stories you hear about SOHC's blowing head gaskets. They have rock solid tunes "so the tunner tells them" yet after boosting 4-6 months they end up getting a blown head gasket from haveing slight knock. We had this problem on my friends SOHC so we made a det device that you listen to like ear phones to pick up knock. Tunes out even at 1* timing pull it was still WAY more timing then motor wanted at 11psi. Instead seveal more degree's were pulled to prevent this knock. Now after a year and going strong no more HG problems.

See a magic number of timing pull is never the case w/a tune. You have many things that play a roll in when a motor will knock. You have Oct of gas, Tempatures, Manifold design, Head Design, Turbin AR size, RPMs, Compression and cylinder pressures... lists gos on.

 

I'm running crome when I take it to the shop should let them know about what you said or should they be smart enough and know what there doing sorry I'm just so new to turbo don't want anything to go wrong.

 

no ill keep the ls vtec then. i have money for rods and pistons anyways. anyone know a good place to buy them? also what about those eagle rods and ross racing pistons on ebay?

 

BTW what do you guys rev this motor to stock? b20 vtec and all.... because from what i know rod/stroke ratio will eventually srew your whole block