Just got the car aligned.

bold #'s = "*" value is not within specs.

Actual #'s listed (can provide before #'s if needed)

__________LF_____RF
camber: (-0.77)_(-0.79)
caster:..(+3.15)_(+3.03)
toe:......(+0.02)_(+0.01)

__________LR_____RR
camber: (-0.62)_(-1.36)
toe:......(+0.08)_(+0.10)

Questions:
-does the toe look good for street / road course use?
-does the caster look nicey nice?
-does the front camber look better than stock ITR setup?
-does a thrust angle of -0.01 seem ok?

Will
-who will take lunch 'off site' today... and raise hell on I-277 on/off ramps

 

Wonder what's going on with the different rear camber numbers?

1. Looks good to me, from what I remember. Although to be fair I usually think of toe in inches, not degrees (anyone know how to convert?)
2. Looks like someone did the upper CA swap
3. Don't remember
4. Don't really know what a thrust angle is, never have.

 

'stunna' at the shop would not let me sit in the car during the alignment. I am ~10% of my cars weight... so that may make a difference in rear camber. I guess the next option is a adjustable rear kit.

CA swap = (so many Civic's... so little time)
I was just trying to think what the stock camber was so that could be compaired.

I only drove about 9 blocks to get to work so the 'testing' will have to happen later.

Will
-who hopes this and the newer front bar will = tail out driving

 

Isn't thrust how well your rear wheels are aligned with your front?

Good
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Bad (ignore the little '`', it's there to make my ascii art work)
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[Modified by Crack Monkey, 6:28 AM 7/5/2002]

 

<--- needs to learn the art of car setup.

 

needs to get a car first.

 

You too.

 

I have a car. And i race it. Even if its a plastic econobox.

 

I would zero out the rear toe. I get -1 neg camber on the front of my stock ITR. I did not find that adding driver weight changed and setting on my ITR significantly. I like the caster numbers.

 

some toe out in the rear wil help the car rotate...

 

After getting my car aligned, and the ball joints replaced yesterday morning, that's what I did late last night!

Heading north out of downtown on Tryon, turning right at the Art Church, and jumpin' on it through two lights and one on-ramp to 277 rocks!


[Modified by drumsy, 12:01 PM 7/5/2002]

 

The rear is toed in. How unexciting Live on the edge, go zero back there, and toe the front out a little. I forget the conversion, but 1/16" toe out up front feels pretty good.

Warren

 

the new front swaybar is very exciting.. (to say the least)
21F 23R =

I will check the toe again (got the lifetime alignment) once I can get to RockHill to go to the g00d version of the chain.

1/16" toe out and zero toe in the rear is what I asked for.. but the fella said "whe have to adjust with-in the factory specs."

He did ask me if I had Falken "race'n slicks" on my car...

Willis

 

According to the those alignment values you posted, you're ever so slightly toed in. Negative is toed out. See if he'll go negative within specs, if you're so inclined.

Warren

 

You need to use a different alignment shop.

 

Hey Willard, was that your ITR at Hendrick the other day?

 

I do alignments at the shop I work at and we do a lot of Integras and Civics.

The rear toe is actually dead-on if my memory serves me correct.

.08 is absolutely PERFECT in the middle as far as factory specs go, so no worries there. .10 isn't far from it, so no worries there either.

We use the new Hunter machine that's all computer-based with programs that have all the specs in it for every car and it uses the computer heads and stuff.

The rear camber is right on the borderline of red zone.

-1.3 is the max allowable negative rear camber for Civics (that's where I set mine) and I'm pretty sure it;s the same for your ITR.

Up front the toe ideally could be set at 0, but yours is close enough. 0 would be the best for les tire wear, but I'm not sure about turn-in and what-not.

Camber up front can be set at -1.3 as well according to factory limits on the Civic, which should be the same on the R also.

Looks pretty good to me, but let me re-check it again - I already forgot all the numbers.

 

If it makes you fell better, here's how my numbers look:

Front:

Camber: -.8 degrees both sides
Toe: 0 both sides

Rear:

Camber: -1.3 both sides
Toe: .08 both sides

As you can see we have nearly identical numbers. I run this on my 1992 Civic with ITR swap, Koni Yellows on custom Eibach ERS 425FR 550RR springs with no front swaybar and 14mm rear swaybar on 205-50-15 Falkne Azenis in a 2040lb. street car.

I've only had mine set like this for a week now, but I can tell you that it handles freaking awesome and doesn't appear like it'll wear tires out any quicker on the insides.

I tok it to auto-X like that and loved it.



Might not be ideal for racing, but it looks like a great alignment for street driving/auto-X road racing on your street tires.

 

I've seen this mentioned a few times...I know it gives you more caster but what is the advantage of this? And which way is positive...top towards the rear of the car?

 

Think of it like a motorcycle. Envision, if you will, the front fork on a "chopper" Harley, where the front wheel is way forward of the handlebar. Now envision what happens when you turn the handlebars left. The top of the wheel points towards the left as well...which means you are picking up negative camber. *That* is the benefit.

Moving the upper ball joint towards the rear of the car is our goal. My assumption is that this is called "positive." What I do know is that it is A Good Thing.

 

Cool, thanks--so how does this affect tire wear? Steering feel/feedback? I'm wondering if this would be something I could do for autocross/daily driving (I'm all about free/easy stuff that works )

 

Willard,

Is this in the Arrr?

A little less rear camber would be nice along with 0 toe or a 1/16 out per side.

 

Why less rear camber?

I'd figure that the max negative camber within specs would be a good thing...

 

Hey Will, real men run toe out both front and rear. I agree with Warren about living on the edge!!

 

toe out in the rear with kelate metallic brake pads makes for some very interesting trail braking