Okay, I know this has been hashed out before and I've read the other threads, but what am I supposed to be looking at, and what am I supposed to be drilling? I'm highly visual, so I retain the most of my information by seeing and feeling, as opposed to reading. Before I make a mess, can someone show me, based on these pictures, how to permanantly disable the lock? I've read my service manual, but all it talks about is the removal of the entire ignition unit.

 

See the circle in the bottom there. Drill straight up into that.

 

What we did is cut slots in the bolts that mount the whole housing to the steering shaft. Then just remove them with a screwdriver, and put a piece across the hole so the pin can't lock it anymore... reassemble.

 

Thanks guys. Is there more than one way to do this correctly?

 

Sackdz has the best way. If you can't make slots in the bolts, a screw driver placed to the side and tapped with a hammer will work, but it takes a while. Or drill the tops off and replace the bolts with new ones.

 

Maybe I'm missing something (probably), but aren't the two "shear bolts" on top of the colum just mounting bolts? What good does simply removing them do? When I get them off, what's next?
I do appreciate the feedback.

 

John,
Those are just mounting bolts. If you were to remove them, you could just replace them with regular metric bolts.

The two ways that are being suggested are 1) leave the cylinder on. drill the bottom 'button' with an 3/8" drill. the spring & 'bolt' will drop off 2) remove the cylinder assembly. push in the 'bolt'. drill thru housing & 'bolt'. insert pin or use a small bolt/nut.

I did method #2

 

For my '86 CRX Si, it only took a couple of seconds to slot the shear bolts with a pneumatic cut-off tool. I was successfull disabling the column lock by re-mounting the ignition switch turned just a little, thus keeping the locking plunger from going into the column.
The only problem was the lock no longer quite fit the plastic cover.
I don't know how my column lock was disabled on my '85 Si, since it was done before I bought it.

 

This takes about 30 seconds w/ a new bit.. And if the "plate" starts to turn w/ the drill, then it takes 5 mins.. Just get the spring out, thats all you need to do..

 

the shear bolts are not tight...use a vice grip on the head and you can take em off. Then you can replace them with (I think,can't remember) 10mm or 12mm honda bolts.

 

Back from the dead.
Question. Is there a way to simply disable the lock for the track and then re-able it for the street? Or is it pretty pointless to have it since any thief is probably going to know how to disable it anyway?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrlegoman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back from the dead.
Question.

1: Is there a way to simply disable the lock for the track and then re-able it for the street?
2: Or is it pretty pointless to have it since any thief is probably going to know how to disable it anyway?</TD></TR></TABLE>

1: No.
2: Up to you...Locks keep honest people honest!

 

I personally did this the 3rd way!

I took the ignition off the car, and took it apart. Then I took out the bolt and spring!

I liked the thought of not having it in there at all instead of just making it not work...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrlegoman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back from the dead.
Question. Is there a way to simply disable the lock for the track and then re-able it for the street? Or is it pretty pointless to have it since any thief is probably going to know how to disable it anyway?</TD></TR></TABLE>

From my understanding this doesn't disable the key tumbler lock itself, just the steering wheel lock when the key is removed. You still need a key to start the car. The would-be thief will still have to pop the lock, or hotwire it to get the car started, this only stops the steering column from locking up when the key is removed. It's there for safety just in case the key falls out and the driver is going 140 down the straight with a locked column

 

If you choose to drill the circle thing, go slowly! My first time I bought this nice new bit, and got a little carried away. The steering wheel no longer locked, but the key didn't work either. Doh! But then I got to make it start like a real racecar using a switch and push button start button.

I need to go through this process again and I'll probably drill the circle thingy.

 

Dude, don't worry about the top bolts. Just drill it out and you'll be fine. I ended up slotting the top bolts, dismounting it for nothing. Drill away my friend!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by granracing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you choose to drill the circle thing, go slowly! My first time I bought this nice new bit, and got a little carried away. The steering wheel no longer locked, but the key didn't work either. Doh! But then I got to make it start like a real racecar using a switch and push button start button.

I need to go through this process again and I'll probably drill the circle thingy. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did something similar, but with some shaking/jiggling/tapping the key worked fine again. Happily every after and such..

 

I just pulled out the whole thing and I'm replacing it with swithces.

 

you can also pull the assembly off and reinstall it with some metal flashing over the hole in the collum. its easy and easily reversed.

 

I drilled with a 3/8" and the wheel does not lock anymore. But are you suppose to pull the spring out? Or is it ok to leave it in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IGGY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just pulled out the whole thing and I'm replacing it with swithces.</TD></TR></TABLE>

as am i

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrlegoman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drilled with a 3/8" and the wheel does not lock anymore. But are you suppose to pull the spring out? Or is it ok to leave it in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm kinda **** about this isssue:

1) drill out hole to remove spring
2) put a screw through the sliding pin so it was held in place (can't accidentally slide in)
3) dremelled a slot in the two mounting bolts to remove the entire assembly, replaced with regular bolts & installed 1/2" farther down the column so even if the screw came loose(covered in silicone), the pin slid in (no spring pushing it) - it's not lined up with the slot...

Can you tell I was bored the day I needed to do this