Would using a stiffer spring rate be the only way to solve coil-binding? I'm already using a set of 448lb/in spring rated springs with the dimensions of 6"L X 2.5"ID on the front of my DC5 Type S.

my car is using skunk2 adjustable springs in combination with Koni "off the shelf" sport struts.

Can springs actually lose their rated spring rate over time through use? For the first 8 months of use, with the Skunk2 race springs, coil-binding wasn't so prevalent...the last couple of weeks i seem to coil-bind my fronts over any type of imperfections whether it be on the road or the auto-x course...

I tried raising my car up 1/4" to get more suspension travel out of my setup, but it didn't solve the coil-binding issue (car was lowered 1.7" in the front and now it's 1/4" higher then 1.7").

Revalving my Koni's right now to handle a stiffer spring rated spring really isn't a viable option for me...i'm pretty happy with my front spring rate setup right now...

How about using a longer spring, maybe a 7" spring? Would that solve my coil-binding issue? A 7" spring will leave me with a lot less of an adjustment range, but if it'll solve my issues then i'm willing to give it a shot. Thanks in Advance

Edit: Maybe it's just the cheap Skunk2 race springs, i don't think their spring rates are close to being accurate. Oh yeah, i did a search through ALL the forums before posting this thread. Nothing came up under coil-bind or even coil-binding.

 

Don't know about Skunk2 springs, but an Eibach 6.00"x2.50" 450lb spring has 3.51" of spring travel from free to coil bind, and takes a 1579lb load to compress to coil bind (info courtesy of True-choice catalog). I'm not sure that imperfections on the road or autox course would be enough to cause this much compression. How much does a DC5 weigh anyway, and whats the % front & rear.

If you're getting a real jolt over small bumps and such, I'd suspect that something else is binding, maybe a shock or a bushing in the suspension.

 

If you are getting true coil-bind (impact marks will be apparent between springs), then you need to either go with higher rate springs or longer free lengths springs. Spring rate is a function of the steel wire diameter and number and diameter of the springs. When a spring sags or fatigues, the free length gets lower but the wire, coils and diameter don't change. Therefore the spring rate itself doesn't change, just the length.

Are there marks on the spring proving that you are really coil binding or are you just whacking the bump rubber so harf that you think you are coil binding? In the at case, raise the ride height or raise the spring rate or both.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Geezer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't know about Skunk2 springs, but an Eibach 6.00"x2.50" 450lb spring has 3.51" of spring travel from free to coil bind, and takes a 1579lb load to compress to coil bind (info courtesy of True-choice catalog). I'm not sure that imperfections on the road or autox course would be enough to cause this much compression. How much does a DC5 weigh anyway, and whats the % front & rear.

If you're getting a real jolt over small bumps and such, I'd suspect that something else is binding, maybe a shock or a bushing in the suspension.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually i checked the strut's last night...took EVERYTHING apart to see if it could have been the Koni's, but it's not and i'm 100% sure of this now. When i checked the spring, the powder coating was "rubbed off" inbetween every single coil of the spring. That has lead me to believe that it has to be coil-binding.

And just to make sure of this, i even raised the car up an extra 1/4" for more suspension travel to see if it'll still make the sound and it did.

The weight, as honda states it, should be 2,767lbs for the DC5 Type S. As for weight ratio front to rear i think it's sometime like 67% front and 33% rear.

When the front skunk2 springs are loaded with the weight of the car the coils seem to have only, at the most, 1" of freeplay before coil binding.

Edit: Just checked the acura website, it's 61/39 front/rear weight distribution.


Modified by sjracer at 10:06 PM 4/10/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are getting true coil-bind (impact marks will be apparent between springs), then you need to either go with higher rate springs or longer free lengths springs. Spring rate is a function of the steel wire diameter and number and diameter of the springs. When a spring sags or fatigues, the free length gets lower but the wire, coils and diameter don't change. Therefore the spring rate itself doesn't change, just the length.

Are there marks on the spring proving that you are really coil binding or are you just whacking the bump rubber so harf that you think you are coil binding? In the at case, raise the ride height or raise the spring rate or both.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hi lee,

i just posted my answer to your questions in the post just above. Thanks

Edit: The weird part about it is the driver side is the only side i'm having this problem with coil-binding. I have waaay over 2" of suspension travel and it's still making the sound. I've checked the ride height and my driver front side is about 1/8" higher then the passenger side. Coil-bind!

 

i would say get a longer spring. just doing some quick number crunching, i figure your left front has about 900lbs static verticle load. taking an educated guess at your front motion ratio, i would estimate that you've used up a tad over 2" over your available 3.5" of spring travel. hitting a bump would easily be sufficient to compress the spring the rest of the way, since you only need another 600lbs or so of load on the wheel. i would even hazard a guess that you are binding the left front spring on most hard right handers you take. going to a 7"x2.5" 450lb spring would gain .5" of spring travel and 300lbs more force to bind the spring.

nate

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say get a longer spring. just doing some quick number crunching, i figure your left front has about 900lbs static verticle load. taking an educated guess at your front motion ratio, i would estimate that you've used up a tad over 2" over your available 3.5" of spring travel. hitting a bump would easily be sufficient to compress the spring the rest of the way, since you only need another 600lbs or so of load on the wheel. i would even hazard a guess that you are binding the left front spring on most hard right handers you take. going to a 7"x2.5" 450lb spring would gain .5" of spring travel and 300lbs more force to bind the spring.

nate</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually you're right, on some hard right handed turns the left front spring does coil-bind. So do you think an extra .5" of spring travel would suffice? The only bad thing about a 1" longer spring on the RSX is the fact that you'll lose a lot of suspension ride height adjustment. Thanks for your reply. Good educated guess by the way ...late

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sjracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually you're right, on some hard right handed turns the left front spring does coil-bind. So do you think an extra .5" of spring travel would suffice? The only bad thing about a 1" longer spring on the RSX is the fact that you'll lose a lot of suspension ride height adjustment. Thanks for your reply. Good educated guess by the way ...late</TD></TR></TABLE>

it depends, currently, if the spring didn't bind, how much more shock travel do you have? it sounds to me like you've pretty much decided on what ride height you want, so loosing some ability to go lower shouldn't hurt you. if you're worried that .5" isn't enough, go to an 8" spring, or bump the spring rate to 500lb or both.

nate

 

Sorry about bringing this thread up from the dead but i have a few more question before i order new springs for the front...I'm going to go with a 7"L spring...

Question: Should i ordered the same spring rate of 450lb/in that i'm using right now or should i just jump up to a set of 500lb/in springs for the front? I'm really getting tired of the coil-binding and by jumping up to a 7" 500lb spring this would solve the problem permanently correct?

I don't want to revalve my OTS Koni's yet (keyword yet). Do you think they'll be able to handle a spring rate of 500lb/in for the time being? Thanks

 

how does the car feel with the 450lb? if you like the balance but just want to cure the coil bind, stick with 450lb springs. if you think the front is a little soft, bump them to 500lb.

it is very likely that just the .5" increase in travel combined with the extra 300lbs of force required to bind the spring will solve your bind issue. raising the spring rate will just give you a little more padding. is it possible to find a 450 7" spring that you can test with before you spend any money?

if the shocks are handling 450lb springs right now, i can't see why they wouldn't be capable of handling a spring that is only 50lbs/in stiffer.

if you want to see the specs on all the different length and rates of eibach springs, go to http://www.ground-control.com and go to the catalogues section. you'll be able to figure it out from there.

nate

 

Thanks Nate

I just went ahead and purchased a set of 7" 500lb/in springs through true choice. Hopefully this will cure my coil binding issue with the front permanently. Now when I get somemore money together I can go ahead and purchase stiffer springs, maybe some 600lb/in springs, for the rear and get my koni's revalved. Thanks for all your help again.

David