I thought I might get additional response here...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2318946

 

i have never replaced wheel bearings when replacing studs.
on the flip, i would replace studs when replacing wheel bearings.

 

So have you used the slide hammer method then? It is frustrating because all I really need is new wheel studs and the cost for new bearings (installed) is $415!! I guess I might as well try to do it without replacing the bearings. I guess the worst that could happen would be for the bearings to go bad, in which case I would replace them at THAT time.

 

I have also read that some people grind part of the stud down to get it to fit without pulling the hub. This sounds really scary but the alternative method of grinding a little of the knuckle down, which has more metal to spare, seems like it might not be that bad of an idea.

 

Anybody else?

 

use the slide hammer method, works fine. make sure you do not use Blox extended studs

 

You can use a BFH to pound the old wheel studs out and then use an impact wrench and a few washers and a lug nut to draw the new studs through the hub. It doesn't require removing the hub and has been the easiest way I've ever done it. Some may say that using the hammer to pound out the old studs will wear out your wheel bearings prematurely but I have yet to have a problem.

 

Thank you both for your input.

When you use the slide hammer method and pull the thing that the wheel studs are connected to out (I don't know what it is called), does the wheel bearing ever come out of the hub? The hub and the thing the studs are connected to are different right? I am asking because the pictures are not working in the thread with a detailed write up of the slide hammer method.

 

Oh and what is a bfh? Big effing hammer? haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Remmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use a BFH to pound the old wheel studs out and then use an impact wrench and a few washers and a lug nut to draw the new studs through the hub. It doesn't require removing the hub and has been the easiest way I've ever done it. Some may say that using the hammer to pound out the old studs will wear out your wheel bearings prematurely but I have yet to have a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1. i'm not picturing what you're saying about a slide hammer. just do what he posted.

 

its not called a BFH, its called a dead force hammer. these hammers have small "shots" in them that prevent the hammer from rebounding. the wheel bearing will not come out because it is being held on by a bearing race. And you may not be able to remove the old studs by pounding them out, it depends what car this is on. Sometimes the knuckle may get in the way. That is why i recommend using the slide hammer because you will remove the hub with the studs without damaging anything.

 

It is on an ef so I will have to pull out the hub to get the studs out because, like you said, the knuckle will get in the way.

 

I've used the slide hammer method to remove the hubs and replace the studs. It seemed to work fine, but I ended up replacing the wheel bearings soon after anyway so I wish I had just done it all at the same time.

$415 to install new bearings seems high. If you get a good price on the parts then remove the whole knuckle assembly and bring it to a shop, they shouldn't charge too much to press them out and install the new ones.

 

Slide hammer method works the best. its important that you add the axle to the hub and add the nut to the axle before you hit the hub back in with the slide hammer. if not when you hit the slide it will push the rear bearing and dust cover out of position, making it even harder to get the nut on the axle. the nut is the most important thing,as its going to be use to sandwich the hub back together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is on an ef so I will have to pull out the hub to get the studs out because, like you said, the knuckle will get in the way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should be able to get away with just positioning the hub in the right place to pound the studs out. I have never had to remove the hub when replacing studs on a Honda yet. Then again, I have not worked with an EF either.

 

I had to press the hub out of the knuckle to replace the wheel studs in my CRX.