In a few months, I hope to purchase some "Neuspeed" Konis (20mm droop limiter) and a set of GCs. I thin I've finally figured out what spring rates I want, but now I have one more question.

Is it ok to order a longer spring for the rear to keep the spring pre-loaded at full droop? Would having a longer spring create issues with coil bind? I'm not sure if the 20mm droop limiter would help prevent the spring from losing contact, so I guess I would order a 1" longer spring...

I'll be swapping wheels at every autocross, so I don't want to risk knocking the spring out of alignment everytime. I did a search, and the nylon zip-tie idea seems to be a good alternative...

 

The only downside I see to a spring longer than you need is that it's going to weigh more than a shorter one.

 

think this through again and tell me why it won't work. here's a hint: to acheive the same ride height with a spring of identical rate but different length the lower spring perch must be lowered the same amount as the increase in spring length.

a longer spring is less likely to coil bind. so is a stiffer spring of the same length.

the difference in weight between a 500# 8" spring and a 500# 10" spring isn't worth measuring on a 2300lb street car. washing the undercarriage will save you more weight.

nate

 

so I take it there's nothing wrong with getting a 1" longer spring?

BTW, it's 3100+ for me

 

a 1" longer spring will cause you to adjust the bottom spring perch 1" down in order to maintain the same ride height as you would have with a shorter spring. This means that the "top" of the spring will be in the same place relative to the top of the shock body.

What does all this mean? It means that you'll still have a loose spring at full droop; it's just that now you'll have an extra 1" of spring going down the GC threaded body.

FWIW, I haven't had any problems with springs not seating correctly on my hatchcrap and I change tires at every autoX event (3 times this year so far...).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a 1" longer spring will cause you to adjust the bottom spring perch 1" down in order to maintain the same ride height as you would have with a shorter spring. This means that the "top" of the spring will be in the same place relative to the top of the shock body.

What does all this mean? It means that you'll still have a loose spring at full droop; it's just that now you'll have an extra 1" of spring going down the GC threaded body.

FWIW, I haven't had any problems with springs not seating correctly on my hatchcrap and I change tires at every autoX event (3 times this year so far...). </TD></TR></TABLE>

doh! lol, I guess I owned myself

Just curious, how exactly do these springs sit on the perch? Are they fastened down in any way? And what's this "isolator" thing that everyone keeps talking about? I haven't seen a set of GCs in person, neither do I have access to the install instructions, so I don't know what everyone is on about...

 

GC's are ultra simple and really difficult to mess up. Basically you have the sleeve that fites over the shock with the proper hardware so that it seats against the Koni circlip. There's a urethane (I think that's what it is) upper spring mount to install also but it's super simple. Really.

at full droop my springs drop down from the top urethane mounts and just sit on the lower spring perch. As soon as the car is lowered the re-seat themselves. No-muss, No fuss.

Adjustment is via an allen key and then just spin the lower erch up or down. I keeep them lubed with WD-40 periodically and haven't had any problems adjusting ride height.

 

ah, and I see most of you all run without dust boots. I'm assuming that the Konis are ok with that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LX4CYL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah, and I see most of you all run without dust boots. I'm assuming that the Konis are ok with that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Without a dust boot is okay (I put mine back on - I just cut them down sufficiently), but I definitely would use the bump-stops (which I also had to cut in half)

 

yes bump stops are a must