Question on twitchy handling
11-03-2009, 12:40 PM
#26
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Re: Question on twitchy handling
The car is running on R888 tires - initially on 225/45-16, and now on 225/45-15. Initial cold pressure was say 34 front and 35 rear, but I think I reduced that down to say 32 front and 33 rear or so, to try to hit high 30's when hot. I have a tire temp gauge, but haven't really used it so far.
The car is corner balanced. During the alignment on 8/6/09, the camber was -3 deg neg in the front, and -2.6 deg neg in the rear. Toe was set to zero for all 4 wheels.
On turn 6, the twitchyness was on say the turn in to the apex with most of it at the apex. Hopefully getting the sway bar brace and the sway bar centered will help, plus probably on braking less and getting back on the gas more before the apex to help balance the car. I also ordered some shaft collars to bolt onto the sway bar to keep it centered. Anyway, I appreciate everyone's help.
- Jim
The car is corner balanced. During the alignment on 8/6/09, the camber was -3 deg neg in the front, and -2.6 deg neg in the rear. Toe was set to zero for all 4 wheels.
On turn 6, the twitchyness was on say the turn in to the apex with most of it at the apex. Hopefully getting the sway bar brace and the sway bar centered will help, plus probably on braking less and getting back on the gas more before the apex to help balance the car. I also ordered some shaft collars to bolt onto the sway bar to keep it centered. Anyway, I appreciate everyone's help.
- Jim
11-04-2009, 06:13 AM
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Re: Question on twitchy handling
Just make the car twitchy on the other side, then it will be really fast!!
Seriously though, I think everyone here has some good ideas. Also I would suggest you "string" your car. You will then be able to see if your rear toe adjustments are even.
Your sway bar could be contributing to this problem. So here is my sway bar experience
An important note on the sway bar. Thoes poly bushings are HORRIBLY binding. It could be producing artificial spring rate on one side . When the bar gets bound up , it then twists the lower control arm instead of transfering load like it should. Even when properly lubed , after the car sits for a few hours ,they push most of the lube out of the way and the bar gets bound up. You can observe this by lubing the bushings , then leaving the end links disconnected. Let the car sit overnight and then try to move the bar by hand. Its really really hard. This in effect makes your sway bar just an additional spring rate !!!
One of the most effective modifications I have ever made is also the cheapest. Buy the Energy Suspension Greasable swaybar bushings. These have a Zerk fitting, and the bushings are channeled inside. Then use a high quality MOLY grease. NOT the synthetic clear type grease. That stuff has some great viscosity to it , but it makes the transfer of energy through the bar very slow ( and creates spring rate ).
These bushings will also push out the lube when the car sits, but due to the channels , they "re-lube " themselves once the sway bar moves
these bushings are around 18$. I lube them with a grease gun before every event. It was one of the most noticible changes I have made to the car. Also you can buy some metal collars to keep the bar from sliding around. This is also very important ( and cheap )
The rear sway bar seems to be one of the least understood chassis tuning componants on our cars,,, and its also one of the most effective.
If you are at Buttonwillow this weekend come and look at my sway bar set up. I have addressed several issues these hondas have
here is a link to the 22mm bushings. they have all sizes http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=9.5158
JT-R
Seriously though, I think everyone here has some good ideas. Also I would suggest you "string" your car. You will then be able to see if your rear toe adjustments are even.
Your sway bar could be contributing to this problem. So here is my sway bar experience
An important note on the sway bar. Thoes poly bushings are HORRIBLY binding. It could be producing artificial spring rate on one side . When the bar gets bound up , it then twists the lower control arm instead of transfering load like it should. Even when properly lubed , after the car sits for a few hours ,they push most of the lube out of the way and the bar gets bound up. You can observe this by lubing the bushings , then leaving the end links disconnected. Let the car sit overnight and then try to move the bar by hand. Its really really hard. This in effect makes your sway bar just an additional spring rate !!!
One of the most effective modifications I have ever made is also the cheapest. Buy the Energy Suspension Greasable swaybar bushings. These have a Zerk fitting, and the bushings are channeled inside. Then use a high quality MOLY grease. NOT the synthetic clear type grease. That stuff has some great viscosity to it , but it makes the transfer of energy through the bar very slow ( and creates spring rate ).
These bushings will also push out the lube when the car sits, but due to the channels , they "re-lube " themselves once the sway bar moves
these bushings are around 18$. I lube them with a grease gun before every event. It was one of the most noticible changes I have made to the car. Also you can buy some metal collars to keep the bar from sliding around. This is also very important ( and cheap )
The rear sway bar seems to be one of the least understood chassis tuning componants on our cars,,, and its also one of the most effective.
If you are at Buttonwillow this weekend come and look at my sway bar set up. I have addressed several issues these hondas have
here is a link to the 22mm bushings. they have all sizes http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=9.5158
JT-R
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