alright, well I doa lot of autocross for a local ontario club, picked up 2 first place trophies, one for my class, and one for rookie of the year..

Im trying to find something to buy for my car, Im not fast but my car handels veery well... heres my list so far, let me know what I could add to make it a bit better for the track..

Neuspeed Rear Strut Bar
Neuspeed Rear Tie Bar
Neuspeed Front Strut Brace
- Custco C-Pillar Bar - thinking of getting..
Neuspeeed Race Springs
KYB AGX Adjustable 4 Way Struts
Power Stop Rotors (front and rear)
EBC Green Pads (front and rear)
Russell Steel Braided Lines..
15'' Wheels with Toyo RA1 track slicks..'


I want SRR LCA's but are they sueful? And would it make a difference buyin the Custco C-Pillar bar?

 

tires, always tires.
shocks are a good idea.
call coblat or carbotech and talk to a guy about brake pads. get proper ones for autox.
ask other racers with your car about spring rates before you buy any of those.
strut bars and stuff if you have some extra cash. a roll cage would be better.

 

Are you trying to make it better for the track or autocrossing?
What class are you competing in?

Some mods to consider (Kinda pointless not knowing what class):
LSD
Stiffer Springs (depending on what your current "race" springs are)
Better brake pads

 

Sorry, I wasnt saying "thats what I want" those things I listed are what I have.. asfar as break pads, for the amount of hp Im running they work more then I need..

I was just wondering what would be good to add, and if Custco C-Pillar bar is wroth the extra cash..

 

Bars and braces wont make you faster. Neither will more power.

Tires, shocks, LSD and suspension tuning will. Oh, and seat time. More seat time. Lots of it, as much as you can get. Even if you have to drive 4 hrs each way.

 

luckily the closest track is only 30 minutes away and one of the nier tracks in ontario is only 3 hours away, so I get into a lot of autocross schools and clinics as much as I can..

I got a Toyo sponcership for cheap RA-1' track radials.. as far as LSD, I was going to look at Kazz and Quaaf but there wayyy to much money, I would much rather spend it on some lighter wheels and new clutch!

 

For HPDEs, I suggest a different brake pad. Though most people recommend against EBC Greens for any use, they are definitely not a track pad. Carbotech/Cobolt can get you a track pad, whether you want to change at the track or a few days before.

The only good thing about a C-pillar bar is that they look so damn sweet. By "they look so damn sweet" I mean "they look like a midget rollbar". Skip it, spend the money on a track day, and keep your backseats open for all the C-pillar stunnas' girlfriends who are wowed by your skill and talent. Or save the money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s3an &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a Toyo sponcership for cheap RA-1' track radials.. as far as LSD, I was going to look at Kazz and Quaaf but there wayyy to much money, I would much rather spend it on some lighter wheels and new clutch! </TD></TR></TABLE>

RA-1's are not a good autocross tire. They will not heat up during an autocross run to be effective.

Lightweight flywheels and aluminum underdrive pulleys are another good benefit, if you have money burning a hole. But the other things i posted will offer more benefit per dollar spent.

Option for you to return the car to 'stock' class and put the money into fewer, but better modifications? Always better to spend the money that way... even if you dont change classes (i.e. better to spend $900 on a diff, than $900 on bars, braces, brake rotors, stainless lines and junk).

 

Thanks for the help..
What tire do you suggest? Azenis?

 

This is for track or autocross???

 

Azenis are great. And cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s3an &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright, well I doa lot of autocross for a local ontario club, picked up 2 first place trophies, one for my class, and one for rookie of the year... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Congratulations! You must be doing something right, eh?

I didn't see what class you're in or what type of car you're driving, not that it matters all that much, but a Limited Slip would help you quite a bit if you're driving a FWD.

Generally speaking, do the shocks and the springs. If you can't do both, do the shocks first. However the best spent money will be on seat time and instruction. The best mod I've ever made was a couple of years ago. The mod cut about 2 seconds off my time and it was totally free, I just had to ask for it...

I rode along with a D-Stock National Champion.

When I jumped back into my car, yep, 2 seconds faster. I know this isn't what you were asking for, but I just had to share that tid bit.

So, get as much seat time as you can, and if you can help it, ride with instructors, have them ride with you, and if you don't mind, have them drive your car.

 

Well we call it SOLO 1 AND SOLO 2.. here in Ontario..

Solo 1 - on the track, quickest lap wins..
Solo 2 - around pilons, quickest time wins..

I won 2 championships in Solo 2 last year, and I want to move up to Solo 1...

What tires do you reccomend if not the Toyo's?

 

For Solo 1 (one) Toyo is a great choice.

However doesnt Solo 1 require a rollbar, belts, fire bottle and firesuit?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emwavey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Congratulations! You must be doing something right, eh?

I didn't see what class you're in or what type of car you're driving, not that it matters all that much, but a Limited Slip would help you quite a bit if you're driving a FWD.

Generally speaking, do the shocks and the springs. If you can't do both, do the shocks first. However the best spent money will be on seat time and instruction. The best mod I've ever made was a couple of years ago. The mod cut about 2 seconds off my time and it was totally free, I just had to ask for it...

I rode along with a D-Stock National Champion.

When I jumped back into my car, yep, 2 seconds faster. I know this isn't what you were asking for, but I just had to share that tid bit.

So, get as much seat time as you can, and if you can help it, ride with instructors, have them ride with you, and if you don't mind, have them drive your car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My class goes according to PIPS - which is like points per mod thing..

Im in a class called BSS.. which is agasint stock engine cars around 120-160 hp.. suspension and smaller modifications..

I took 2 courses at a local track, and lots of ride alongs with pro drivers..

I got out of the car with my instructor, got in the drivers seat and shaved more then 2 seconds off the time my instructor put in my own car..

Im still young, 17 years old and Im considered the newbie of the league, because Im the newest and the youngest one out..

Its a b18b1..


here the list if you guys want to know, just so you can get an idea of the parts I have..

1995 Acura Integra RS-SE

Engine:

Fluidyne 2 core rad
AEM CAI
5Zigen JASMA 421 Header
B&M FPR
OEM Honda Oil cap
Spoon Resevoir covers
Spoon Oil Plug
Tanabe Super Race Medallion Exhaust
High Flow Cat
NKG Wires and Plugs
Viper 800 Alarm

Breaking/Suspension:

Power Stop Rotors
ITR Calipers
Russell Steel Braided Break Lines
EBC Dustless Pads
Neuspeed Race Springs
KYB AGX 4 Way Struts
Poly Suspension Bushings
Neuspeed Rear Lower Tie Brace
Neuspeed Rear Upper Strut Brace
Neuspeed 4 Point Strut Brace

Exterior:

Fresh Mailano Red Paint
JDM SI-VTEC FRONT LIP
JDM SI-VTEC FOG LIGHTS
JDM SI-VTEC BUMPER LENSES
2000 Acura Integra GSR Blades
Spoon Style Power Mirrors
OEM JDM rear wiper plug

Interior:

Prothane Shifter Bushings
Pilot Short Shift
JDM ITR Shift ****
Kenwood CD Player
Alpine Frontr & Rear speakers
Integra Type-R Shift Boot


Thanks for all the advice guys, really apprecaite it!

 

In that case, yeah, Azenis would be a good tire to use for Solo 1 AND Solo 2, as they grip pretty well cold yet can take a decent amount of heat. However, if you have free RA1s, I definitely use them for Solo 1. I'll take 'em otherwise .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For Solo 1 (one) Toyo is a great choice.

However doesnt Solo 1 require a rollbar, belts, fire bottle and firesuit?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not until you get into the higer classes.. but I do have a fire bottle in my car..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s3an &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not until you get into the higer classes.. but I do have a fire bottle in my car.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would strongly encourage the safety gear if you are running on a big track against the clock.

 

Yeah, Im trying to save up to buy a cage..

Do you know any companies that make them? Im not sure if getting one done locally is a good idea..

 

http://www.kirkracing.com
http://www.ioportracing.com sells autopower

 

Thanks guys.. I got this quote ealier today and it kind of caught me by suprise..

Quaife LSD - $1360.00 (brokerage?)
ACT Stage 2 - 6 puck clutch - $640.00
Bully Stage 2- Full Disc - $790

Those are all Canadian, but it sounds way to far out of my budget..

 

Dont need anything other than a stock clutch.

Stock ITR flywheel is a bit lighter, its a cheap upgrade.

 

your good help man!

Do you have msn or icq? It would be much easier then wasiting bandwitdh..

 

Getting one done locally (as in, getting it welded in as opposed to bolting it in) is superior assuming the cagebuilder is competent. Ask other racers (with nice cages) in your area who did theirs - word of mouth speaks volumes.

--Karl, who has had both and knows

 

A couple local guys have told me they were pleased with their cages, I just assumed that a bolt in would be better because I drive the car daily and it would be easier to keep it out during the week and put it in for weekend events.. Im 17, and this is my daily driver...