quick question..........

sometime this week I'll be swapping master cylinders on my 93 hatch to a larger one to go along with the brakes on the car now.

changing booster / master cylinder combo ( I already have the 40/40 prop valve )

NOW -
do I change them both , fill with fluid and bleed each corner ?
OR - do I need to also bleed the master cylinder itself ?
its a used unit with SOME fluid still in it , it is NOT brand new.

just trying to get everything planned out and have never changed a master cylinder before..............



[Modified by Doctor CorteZ, 2:04 PM 10/22/2002]

 

You will want to bench-bleed the master cylinder. It could save you a lot of aggravation later on.

 

thats what I thought.
but I am sure how to do this ...........

 

Bench Bleeding 101:

NOTE: To do this right you should buy a bench bleeding kit - but it can be done without (I have done it both with and without one)

Assuming you have the kit:
1. Stick MC in a vice
2. Fill resevoir with fluid
3. Connect the fittings to the MC and run the lines back into the resevoir
4. Using a solid blunt object (ie: LARGE Phillips screwdriver) push the piston all the way in several times or until you see no more air bubbles in the resevoir

I have also bled MCs by having someone work the pedal while I tighten and loosen the line fittings utilizing the same method as I would for bleeding a corner.

 

thats how I pictured doing it.....

thanks man.

 

I went looking for a MC bleeding kit recently and couldn't find such a thing. I heard that most autoparts places have them, but no luck around here???

 

I don't think it is actually called that. I think you will get what you need in a brake bleeding kit. All you need are the little plastic fittings that screw into the MC and have nipples on them for rubber hoses.

 

Yea, I'd know it if I saw it...

In general, hell would freeze over before I asked for help in a store. You think that may be part of my problem?

 

well I have one more Q

with a vacuum bleeder if I am able to completely flush the entire system is bench bledding still required ?

just a thought......

 

IMO it is not required however it is always a good idea. Air can get trapped in the MC and work its way out later at a more "inconvenient" time.

 

cool.
once again thats what I thought....

 

I wouldn't trust it. I like my vacuum bleeder (compressor powered), but I'd worry about air getting hung up in the MC.

Bench bleeding takes all of a couple minutes. For that matter, just go out in the yard, grab a couple brake lines to plug into the MC, hack them off far enough down to stick in a bottle and you're good to go. As someone who did not bench bleed his MC, and who has dealt with inconsistent pedals all year long I'd strongly recommend doing it. If problems arise, it's one less thing to worry about.

On a side note, I took my speedbleeders out two events ago and my braking situation has improved quite a bit. One of them was completely shot. As soon as I started loosening it, fluid started running out. . I also realized that in a town this large, not a single place has a new bleed screw to fit a honda/acura. It's sad. The parts dept. at the Acura dealership told me that I had to buy a whole caliper to get a bleed screw. - I was too disgusted to argue with them.

 

do you still need some bleed screws Jeff ?

and I will bench bleed the MC just to be sure.


[Modified by Doctor CorteZ, 3:52 PM 10/22/2002]

 

Yea. I could only find 3 (2 good ones) so I was planning on ordering some with the wheel bearing and few other parts I need.

 

let me know if you want me to send you a bonus along with the check...

 

DON'T PUSH THE PISTON (PEDAL) ALL THE WAY IN - YOU CAN DAMAGE THE SEALS.

Scott, who's ears are ringing.....what I said isn't just an urban legend....and bench bleeding likes it when you put your finger over the outlet port....

 

bench bleeding: and easy to do

which is why Casey found himself bench bleeding a new M/C last November; he learned this the hard way and found himself $180 poorer for the experience

 

prolly more info than you need.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=311227

 

never have too much info

thanks man......

 

This may be the most stupid question I have ever asked, but do you need to change the booster when you change switch to a larger master cylinder? The reason I ask is that I have the GSR MC but the standard civic si booster is in place. Thanks.

 

Yes... the flange/bolt holes are aligned differently for each MC/Booster combination.

For example... on a stock civic the holes might be vertical. On a GSR they could be diagonal, and for an ITR they'd be horizontal. I'm not positive about which is which, but it's something like this.



GSR is on the left, ITR is on the right.

[edit]
Ok, now that I think about it... I'm not entirely positive that the civic booster is different than the GSR... so maybe you don't always have to change the booster. I guess I'm no help


[Modified by JeffS, 3:37 PM 10/22/2002]

 

I havent found any civic/integra booster than interchange
you MUST use the correct bore booster / MC combo.

 

I just put a GS-R master cylinder & booster in my '92 Si. The bolt patterns are definately not the same.

Anyone want to buy a '92 Si m/c-booster combo?

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

 

Damn... I thought this was about Beer.