I did a search for this, and I couldn't find anything, so I decided to ask here:

How did all the HC racers install their kill switch, both the wiring and the actual physical location? Thanks for any input.

 

You sure about the search? There was just a resurected thread about a month ago. It had several line drawings to help you figure it out.

Maybe it was under master switch.

 

here it is

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1098293

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexrover17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and the actual physical location? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think this is the best place for it:

 

The angle of that plate steel just seems dangerous . They should move that inside the cage and put the switch actually facing the driver, just my .02$ though.

 

For my 2 cents-Congrat's Travis on the move and the picture of your switch. If anyone wants to see mine, e-mail me and I'll send them to you.

One more time for the install: Very simple-first buy a Longacre 2 pole switch. Get yourself about 10 feet of either #8 or #10 gauge wire and an asssortment of ring terminals. You will also need a new Positive cable for the battery and the feed to the starter (measure for length). Remove the cover from the underhood fuse panel. Disconnect the negative and positive cables from the battery. Disconnect both feeds from the Positive cable (Fuse panel and Starter). On the opposite side of the fuse panel you will find a heavy White w/Black Stripe wire-make sure this is the feed to the ignition switch as it controls shutdown on a CRX. Disconnect this wire from the terminal (a 50 Amp fuse is part of this circuit). You will be making this cable as long as necessary using the same size or heavier wire to reach 1 of the 2 small terminals on the Master Kill Switch. Make up a cable to match this one and connect it to the 50 Amp fuse terminal and the other small switch terminal. This will take care of the shutdown circuit as it removes power from the Ignition and Alternator Field.
The wiring for the 2 large switch terminals is simply to install the replacement battery cable to one and the starter to the other along with a feed to the Main Fuse panel where you removed the Red wire when taking the cable off.

MOD'S--please make a FAQ and if requested I can provide pictures of our setup. The original design was done by Krause & England and meets safety requirements. Where you decide to put the switch is up to you-just make sure that safety personnel can get to it quickly. Also there is no requirement that it be reset once tripped-that is why I used a pull cable.

 

Just remember it is not a "kill" switch, but rather a MASTER switch. It must shut off ALL power to ALL circuits, "killing" the engine is just a secondary, but required, effect.

The switch must stop the engine - test at 2000RPM - and ALSO remove power everywhere. With the switch off use a 12V testor to test the ALL contacts at the alternator, main fuse box, ignition, etc. If there is any power at ANY of the tests, you switch is NOT a master switch.

 

The only exception would be an electrically triggered fire system, right Grumpy?

Or do all of them have a 'backup battery'?

 

The next electrically triggered fire supression system I see will be my first, so I didn't clutter up my post with electrically triggered fire supression system because electrically triggered fire supression system takes a lot of typing to get right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grumpy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The next electrically triggered fire supression system I see will be my first, so I didn't clutter up my post with electrically triggered fire supression system because electrically triggered fire supression system takes a lot of typing to get right.</TD></TR></TABLE>

nice

 

Thanks for the input...

When I searched, I didn't check the archived material....my bad.

 

Rexrover17, are you going to make Buttonwillow?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rexrover17, are you going to make Buttonwillow?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Won't make the race, but I hope to be there for the HPDE with the car...give it its second test session (first didn't go that well ) This way, I can also meet the rest of the norcal and socal guys competing. I also want to do the HPDE to see where I stand on getting the license, without taking the school.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only exception would be an electrically triggered fire system, right Grumpy?

Or do all of them have a 'backup battery'?</TD></TR></TABLE>

almost all electronic fire systems use a 9 volt battery and are independant of the cars electrical system

 

Thanks for the info. I have never really researched them.

I do, however, remember reading an 'exception' a long time ago for master switches in a rule book somewhere.

 

Guys - This seems to be a simple install, but I am having a little difficulty understaning the ignition wire splice. Here is my setup. I fabricated a plate to go in my airbag hole and mounted the switch there. I will run the new battery cables through the firewall and to the switch. Done. Ok, but when I look at the fuse panel under the hood, I see a fuse for 50A labeled ignition, but I don't see any wires coming out. All I see is the one main (size 8?) wire coming from the under hood fuse panel. Is this the wire I splice? It seems to heavy gauge to run to the small connectors on the number 1 side of the kill switch? Any advise in greatly appreciated!

 

Fat terminals interupt the positive circuit from the battery to the main buss, where it connects in stock form. Little terminals put a switch in the lead to the alternator - the "field" side? - so that it gets no juice to make more juice. This makes it irrelevant what is going on in the ignition circuit, if there's now power to ignite anything.

I kind of hid my switch between two tubes so it has a lower whack-factor. It's out of the weather, is handy to the outside world, and I can reach it when belted in.



K

 

Kirk - I thank you for the picture, but I am not sure my question was answered. Can anyone confirm where the ignition wires comes from?

 

For the ignition wire, if your car is like my '89 CRX, look in the fuse panel under the hood.

Firstly disconnect the battery connections. Then, once you've found the 50A fuse you mentioned, follow it out of the panel.... I believe there are three wires side-by-side, all with screwed in connectors under a removable cover, one of which is the ignition wire. Confirm its the correct wire by performing a continuity check across the screw connector and the 50A fuse.

Once the correct wire is found, cut into it outside the fuel panel and connect the electrical disconnect switch in series with this wire.

Good luck.

Robert J.

 

Each of us seems to have our own way of doing this. If you want pictures of mine-drop me an e-mail. The install of the wiring is very simple overall as noted by Lee and others.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Each of us seems to have our own way of doing this. If you want pictures of mine-drop me an e-mail. The install of the wiring is very simple overall as noted by Lee and others.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the input everyone....wiring it up tomorrow...hope it all goes smoothly.

 

If you are close to the NYC border, you can come down and see how my car is wired. During the week is best.