Anyone know how to fix the common understeer problem you get when you swap in a H22 into a civic? I'm guessing adding somekinda weights in the trunk or something of that matter.

I know there has to be a 'professional' way to do this. And also, does anyone know of anygood shops in So. Cali that would know how to do this?

by the way this isn't for an all out race car, just the occasional trackday.

Thanks!

 

Adding weight is never going to be the answer.

- LSD
- stiff rear sway bar
- well-chosen spring rates

 

No.

Remove H22. Sell it. Purchase B20vtec. Install B20vtec.

I'm serious.

 

I really do want a B20vtec, But I want to keep my motor relatively stock.

is there anyway to do that and keep it reliable. I keep hearing people say that to get a reliable B20vtec your gonna end up pay over 5 grand .....

What do you think? If I do get a B20 block, I guess I would get some stronger rods and higher compression pistons.

Could I keep the head stock? I'm thinking just a B16 head.

And what tranny would be best? GSR?

Is this gonna cost me an arm and a leg?

 

First thing I'd mess with is tire pressures and alignment. Toe out the rear agressively. Beyond that, you might need to dabble in some fairly severe spring rates and rear swaybars. Down the deep dark hole of spending money you go.

Yes. And probably some internal organs too.

 

What's wrong with a stock B20 block underneath a stock B16A head? Why do you need to go and change rods, pistons and stuff? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but dont they put out in the neighborhood of 180hp to the wheels, without getting all fancy on the internals? That's got to be close to H22 power, and 100+ lbs lighter.


[Modified by MaddMatt, 8:24 PM 5/29/2002]

 

Yep, H22 is a HEAVY ****. Not a good swap for anyone who wants to turn corners.

Heck, a stock D16 will outrun a H22 on an autox course. On a drag strip...well...H22 is far superior.

 

Just wondering... has anyone actually driven an H22 hatch on the track?

Just curious if the "too heavy to turn" thing is more rumor than fact.

 

Wondering the same thing.

 

I am very interested in this also. I'm guessing though that it would be easier and cheaper to correct the handling issues than change motors, 100 lbs. or not. My car lost almost 100 pounds losing AC and getting a CF hood, so I'm sure he can reduce weight somewhere. Plus the weight is centered low in the car, unlike my soon to go sunroof motor. I definately agree about the LSD though, this will make it much better, although it does bring you back into spending $$$$$. Did any JDM H motor come with an LSD? That would probably be your best route to getting one affordably, buy that trans and sell yours. Hmm, lets see...

Swap tranny $400-$600 (can you do this yourself?)
springs $200-$300 (you already have good dampers, right?)
Rear sway $200-$300
total=$1000-$1200 Is this cheaper than changing motors and selling the H?

....with a LSD and proper suspension tuning, with equally skilled drivers, I'm personally think this combo would kill a D series and most B's in autocross, and probably road racing as well, depending on the course. These are of course only my opinions, I just think that torque pulling out of the corner with setup would be worth it.

 

yes, there are 3 kinds of H22 trannies... open diff, honda lsd, atts
The honda lsd tranny was not sold in the states (of course) but they're not hard to come by.

 

I think it is cheaper than selling the H22 and getting the B20vtec ( only reason those are my 2 options is because I want the torque!)

As for upgrading the rods in the B20 block for the vtec head, I hear alot about the rods not being able to take the higher RPMs youd be spinning them with the vtec head.

 

Even though the extra 100lbs the H22 has is low, it is still in the worst place possible for handling in a FWD car-- directly over the front wheels.

I don't care what you do to lighten things up, you'll still probably never get rid of the push.

 

...messageboard rumor... ignore it.

 

So I could basically slap a B16 head on the B20 block and be good to go....

How reliable would it be?

 

I didn't think it was that easy either. What's the stock B20Z compression ratio?

Edit: I checked out KB58's page (members.***.net/kimini22/car) and said his H22+tranny weighed in at 475 lbs


[Modified by 4doorH22, 4:12 PM 5/30/2002]

 

Keep in mind that you're really in the wrong forum to start a CRVtec discussion.

There are only one or two people in there that have them... or maybe have one in progress... Start at http://www.crvtec.com/ and then head to the hybrid forums for more info... no, it's not a slap and go... it's a little more complicated than that.

 

I agree with this (although maybe not in that order), but I'd say get a bigger front sway bar too. Just make sure you increase the stiffness of the rear bar more than you increase the stiffness of the front. I'd also add better tires to the list.
[Edit: I thought the H22 added 80 lbs over the stock engine? That shouldn't be too hard to compensate for]



[Modified by Steppin Razor, 1:25 PM 5/30/2002]

 

You guys are going to laugh from all the earlier J-spec/NA-spec discussions but I would think you'd want to increase the front spring rate to something possibly higher or equal to the rear, run a small front bar and camber brace and rather large rear bar. It seems you'd want to keep the front end from digging and allow the rear to plant coming out of the turns but get some rotation out of the rear bar and use the center of mass over the front axle to work as a pivot and run a small enough bar up front to keep the outside wheel's compression from ligntening the inside front.

Just venturing and total and complete UNeducated guess at this.

Please give me a second to find the nomex gloves . . .

 

The weight gain from an H22a over a D16 is 200lbs plus, not 100lbs. Stock D16 with tranny is about 185lbs, stock H22a with tranny is 400lbs plus.

Also, your not going to save 100lbs by removing the A/C and getting a CF hood. A/C saves 42lbs (I've removed 7 of them) and a CF hood saves maybe 10-15lbs.


[Modified by Steve91, 4:06 PM 5/30/2002]

 

My stock hood weighed over 40 lbs. My single layer carbon weighs under 10. This is the internet, I exagerated a little, come on.

 

common misconception of the H22A, it is in fact only around 30lbs heavier than a B series motor which can be easily cancelled out with a CF hood.

 

The only reason I started on the B20vtec thing was because I'm looking for the most cost effective way to fix this problem.

 

Steve91:BretxOr:One of you is completely full of ****.


[Modified by MaddMatt, 7:03 PM 5/30/2002]

 

yeah what he said...

too many different answers....how heavy is the H22 exactly? anyone know?

what about the B series I know they all weight about the same, but how much.