<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kingrat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Chris

If you car is understeering you might be able to control it by adjusting you rear camber. I tried from 1 degree negative to around 2 degrees neg in the rear.

The more camber the less understeer/more oversteer I got. Its a very fine adjustment to make though. as for toe I ran 1/8th to 1/16th toe out up front and a 1/16th toe out in the rear.

Also can you adjust your sway bars? and whats your front camber?

Alex.
KRM.
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was that a typo/sarcasm, or did you just say more rear negative camber made the car looser?

nate

 

I was curious about this too. I used to have my rear camber shimmed to zero for rotation for autocross, but was much too loose on fast long curves. Removed the washers, got about 1-1.5 degrees neg. camber and was much happier. Car still rotates OK for the tighter stuff as long as I am careful with weight transfer.

 

I have way too much negative camber right now in back. -2.9 front and -2.6 rear. 0 toe in the rear and toed out a 1/16 up front. I will give the car a little less negative camber in back for this race. (Less than -2) I already swapped the stiffer main springs to the back. Won't be a huge difference but should be a bit better.

I have a question about toe though. When someone says the front is toed out a 1/16th is that total toe or 1/16th per side? My sponsor from last year does my alignment but I remember them asking me that. Seems like we just did 1/16th total to be safe.

My rear sway bar is adjustable by the way. I don't think the Bilstein dampers that come with the Type road race coilover kit are off the shelf. (At least I hope not.)

 

Lots of negative camber (read - too much) in the rear can help loosen the car up by reducing the contact patch. It also adds less rolling resistance down the straights.

This only works on cars with minimal body roll. Ya know, like those with 1200lb rear springs and 24mm swaybars.