Yah you can tune the restrictor to control response time. I used an adjustable restrictor and gauge from mcmaster carr to tune my value and then replaced it with a permanent washer in the pressure side line. Without the restrictor the pressure will sit near zero when the wheel isnt being turned. After you steer it and the load increases but it takes time for the pump to respond to the load and increase pressure. The smaller the restrictor the more the pressure stays high and you need to find the best compromise between electrical system load, pump abuse and steering response time.

I didnt do much street driving with the setup but i found that on the road course quite a bit of lag could be withstood. The restrictor that seemed too laggy for me around the paddock was actually "over assisted" in the driver's mind on track.

 

This is one of the downsides of the electric system though, rapid back and forth direction changes in steering will warrant a tighter restrictor and in the end you find a higher constant load. So thats why the speed variable control system makes sense. In the parking lot you need a high base pressure and at 60mph you cant even feel a thing.

 

has anybody tried this with other pumps?/know what other pumps are compatible? i'm finding it hard to locate a pump for a reasonable price :/ suggestions?

 

When I decided to add an electrical PS pump to my car, I first looked around the local wrecking yards, but found very few Toyota MR2s. I then looked online for a late model MR2 pump (with the cannister attached to the top of the pump), but didn't have much luck. You might get lucky on Craigslist, or E-bay, but the price on E-bay is pretty high. Personally, I ended up finding a website called Spyderchat which is a forum for MR2 owners, and I searched for a pump there, and found one 40 miles away for say $225 in good shape. The link is http://spyderchat.com/forums/forumdi...-Private-Sales and you might need to register to use the site. - Jim

 

I used Renault Clio worked out awesome although a bit heavy, includes a large reservoir/cap.

 

What kind of module control is needed for an electric steering rack that's on the Honda's? I wonder how hard it would be to swap one of those on.

 

Hmm, and everyone agrees with that?? I don't and I have no evidence, but no fraking way that the power steering pump draws the equivalent power as is made by my Honda lawnmower. A 1-1/2 hp pool pump moves nearly 100 gallons per minute. Don't know if those are even reasonable analogies, maybe, maybe not.

The oem device is a small hydraulic pump and might drag 2 hp if that. And, as you mentioned, this EHPS requires a 50 amp relay and fuse and a 1/2 to .75 hp draw on the alternator. I'll bet dollars to donuts that when you finished the entire project you'd be hard pressed to find 1 hp net on a dyno. But no one ever checks that.

 

Scoupe 5sp maybe before you make such false accusations you read up on the ehps on this forum. Kiwi I believe found that there was a 10~15 hp draw on the dyno...

 

Believe what you want, however, the accepted drive train loss #'s including transmission, power steering, air conditioning and alternator is about 12-15% tops on a fwd. ~20/25 hp on a B16 or B18? The power steering pump isn't 10-15hp of that, especially if running an underdrive pulley.

No accusations made in the post. The author of this thread says he got 8 hp. imho "I believe" that number is optimistic. That's all.

 

Agree to disagree then. There is one other big factor here though, I can place the weight off the front of the car and place it low and behind the front axle

 

thank you so much for turning me onto this forum. worked out beautifully!!

sidenote: has anybody found out if the pulse for the speed sensor is the same on the mr2 PS pump as our cars?

 

Question:

I just finished installing this exact same setup in my 2000 Integra but the pump will not power on.

I am using the Accord ABS fuse box. I have A1 from the pump hooked to A1 in the fuse box. I have C1 on the pump hooked to C1 in the fuse box and I have B5 on the pump hooked to B5 in the fuse box. And I have the battery connected.

My fuses are good. I am getting power to the 50amp fuse and all the 15amp fuses. I am not getting any power to the 7.5amp fuse nor am I getting power to A1, C1, or B5.

Does anyone have any ideas?

I am not running a toggle switch to turn it on or off. It is hooked up just like I described.

Please, need help asap!!!

Thanks!

 

Keep in mind that c1 connects to the accord fuse box in addition to a 12v ignition, 7.5v fused source. Take a look at the diagram on the p/s pump picture carefully. This is what tells the pump to turn on.

 

I've done this swap used MR2 Mk II power steering pump, I have OE eg power steering rack and used Hi press Pump from the pump to the rack and from the rack to the reservior to the pump. Electrical I have all good used 10 AWG wires, Bosch relay, circuit breaker and The Steering still is hard to turn? Why? Please I need help becuase I have track days nearly. Used Dexron III fluid.

 

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong - but a 10 gauge wire sounds to be a tad small for that pump. And from the sounds of it - with only a 10 gauge, the pump may/may not be getting all the power it needs. Are you using a fuse/breaker on a switch for the relay or using a ignition 12v signal? what size breaker? Have you checked your grounds?

 

has anyone done this with an older honda? I would rather run the newer mr2 spyder pump in my 1991 integra but i do not have an electric vehicle speed sensor.

 

A speed signal is not required for this conversion to work.

 

I missed this part on the first read -



Thanks for not raping me on that. lol.

 

Well I still can't get the pump to turn on

 

Have you tested that pump even works?

 

I haven't had time since Road Atlanta to work on it anymore. I've been busy with work and also I side swiped the wall going through T1 so I have a few things to look at.

I'll have time tomorrow to work on the car and test it.

 

Hm, I am going to have to give this a try........
Now if I can just find one of those pumps !

 

What terminals do I need to put power and ground to, to test the unit?

 

You will need the ground of course,
and 12vdc+ to all 3 terminals showen in the digram on the first page of this thread.

Did you have all 3 of them hooked up ?

 

To test my pump, I only had ground and power and then tried ground and the 12v.

When I get the car back from the cage builder I will test the pump by putting power to all 3 and grounding the unit. I really hope I'm just f'cking stupid and doing something wrong vs the pump being bad.