RagingAngel

Does anybody know if it's possible to use the stock tube style cooler with the EHPS?

I'm thinking it should be sufficient for lapping days as I don't think anybody has had a powersteering issue with the stock cooler/pump or will the EHPS heat up the fluid that much more than the OE belt driven unit?

kommon_sense

The stock tube cooler should be sufficient. I'm using a very small $30 FAL cooler with my setup, but thats only because my civic didn't come with a factory cooler.

One small thing to keep in mind though is that when running ehps, you are now also relying on the fluid to cool the electric pump.

RagingAngel

I'm in the process of trying to do this conversion and decided to price out the connectors.
P6 connector Part # 90980-12068 - $4.98
P7 connector Part # 90980-10897 - $7.55
P8 connector Part # 90980-10942 - $7.61

Sub-Total: $20.14
Shipping FexEx Ground(lower 48): $10.95
Total: $31.09

Might seem a bit pricey for 3 connectors/pigtails but I've tried looking around at the wreckers and while they might be somewhat common, the MR2 spyder was never officially available in Canada.

And I just had to impulse buy a unit with no pigtails...SOL for me.

The bonus is if you become a facebook fan of Olathe Toyota, you apparently get a discount code! How much discount? Don't know, can't access facebook at work, plus I need to find an American buddy to place the order for me as they don't accept CAD Credit Cards.

Robin6

I have everything for this conversion if anyone is interested in buying it off me.
cheep too!

Pump, fuse box, pig tails from toyota, everything except the mounting bracket.

7/8/2012
Update, no low ballers...had enough already.

motornajoia

Hi there...

I've seen a lot of installations of this MR2 pumps but has anyone tried of some other pumps?

Like I'm in Brazil and here we don't have that car so either the pump so I did some research here and found some other pumps but not sure if they will work.

here is a VW Pump that I found

http://produto.mercadolivre.com.br/M...-polo-2008-_JM

Have anyone tried something like that? Or something similar to it?

Does all the EHSP will work for that conversion having the electric done right?

Thanks a advance

Alex

CB450

I have looked at many different pumps, but have found nothing with the simplicity of the MR-S pump, with it's automatic slow-down feature, or it's simple speed sensitive system.
Everything else relies on add-on ECUs, like the SW20 MR2 did.
Not at all user-friendly for adaptation to other cars.

The only problem I have come across, is that many of the cheap ones have worn out commutators on the motor.
It almost looks like a design flaw, because the brushes are in great serviceable shape still, but the commutators are either on their last legs, or already worn through to the base plastic.
I think a softer brush should have been used, but what ever....

So.......
I am now getting set up to replace the commutators, and have blank, unfinished commutators in stock.
In the next few weeks I should be able to offer a rebuilding service for these.

peaceable

iTrader: (1)

Could you post a couple pictures please?

Robin6

CB450

Robin6, tell us something about that thing.
Is it constant delivery, or does it have progressive pressure/delivery like the MR-S unit, that is vehical speed sensitive ?

peaceable, sorry for the delay, but I had other irons in the fire that had to be addressed, like converting an Ikeya sequential shifter to work on a W58 Toyota trans, a complete heim joint suspension arm set for my car, and making adaptors to put 13" rotors on it.
But that is all done, so the next step is making my MR-S power steering pump healthy.

As I said, I had located replacement commutators with the correct number of segments.
But the ID is smaller than the Toyota motor, and the length is a little short.

The bore is not a problem, as it was easily opened up on the lathe with a minature boring bar.

The length is still long enough to support the whole brush, so that is adaptable, with enough work.
It will have to be spaced out from the armature a ways, but then the tabs for the windings are too short.
So I set up my Tig to weld extensions on the replacement comm.
Never tried welding 1mm square copper wire before, but got through it with.
Having figured out the proceedure, the next one should be easier.
In the picture, they are still too long, and will need to be shortened, and formed.
Next step is making a set-up that will assure they will all be the same, then it's just a matter of hooking the looped ends of the windings over the new tabs, folding the tabs over, and soldering them.
I use 5% silver content solder when I do comms on RC & slot car arms.
The slot arms have a much more severe application, at 300,000 rpm, and 400-500 degree opperating temp, so this app will be no problem.

Anyway, here are a few pictures:

Worn MR-S pump arm, beyond being useable since the comm segments are completely worn through to the base phenolic.


Replacement comm.


Arm with original comm removed.


New comm being bored to fit MRS shaft.


And the longer tabs being tig weled onto it.


The bennifits of doing all this ?
A more user friendly system, that will vary output to my needs, unlike a constant delivery pump that will not.
Before I spent closs to a grand on a constant delivery pump, I would go the little extra, and just buy a new MR-S pump.

More to come, but if I said in a couple of weeks, it probably wouldn't work out that way.
So you will see me when you see me...........

Anyone who wants to reach me, my e-mail is duaxmachine (at) sbcglobal (dot) net

peaceable

iTrader: (1)

Oh, so there is someone else on this planet that knows about slot cars. It's a great hobby path to learn about electronics theory and application. We use to have access to a local track set-up in an out-off-the-main-drag shop front until the year before last, but I guess he had to close it down. He had two really good-size tracks. I was kinda hoping for a local resurgence in this time when a lot of folks can't afford to leave town for much else but work.

CB450

LoL !
Yeah, My son & I used to race the Texas circuit, with the likes of PA Watson (4 time national & 4-time world champ), Gary Puetz, and the Late Craig Landry of Zap Performance fame.
Even produced a small line of go-fast parts under the name DMW, & the 'Liquid Lightning' comm drops, which I also sold to Team Orian in bulk, that they bottled under their own name for RC cars.

But we too are suffering from a lack of a good track, as the only one left in town cares to ignore racers, and just cater to walk-in rentals of his crap cheap rental cars.
The track is in very bad condition, and will not allow fast open cars to be run to their potential.
And I don't feel like travelling 200+ miles to get to a good track for weekly events,
and if I don't have a place to run a few times a week, the old reflexes go to crap, and there is no way to try new things to stay on top of the game.

So I just play with my Cressida these days.

Seedc2

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone installed this on a DC chassis with B series motor? I received the MRS EHPS pump and underestimated the size of this thing. I don't have AC and obviously no PS, but I don't know where I can place this thing... Help anybody?

Renegade

Give Jeff at Special projects a call, he can make a bracket, used on his DC chassis, to mount the pump form the shock tower in the engine bay. Another option is to mount on the front frame rail near where the AC and PS was located.

powerneedy

I have mine located on the passenger side down low on the fire wall and the reservoir next to it on frame rail. I will try to remember to take a picture of it as it seems i misplaced the one I had.

Seedc2

iTrader: (1)

How did you mount the pump? sent you a PM

powerneedy

Robin6

^^Clean setup! Nice job.

peaceable

iTrader: (1)

Ya, I suppose for a lot of reasons, these definitely are not the best of days...

autodoctor911

I would suggest another EHPS setup for most applications. It is the same pump used in Porsche GT3 cup cars, made by TRW

It uses only a ground, 80A fuse or circuit breaker(high amp solid state power transistor built into unit, so no relay is needed), an ignition on circuit, and an Alternator signal circuit(so it doesn't run with key on engine off, can be manually switched if desired). It manages pump volume/pressure based solely on steering demand within the pump unit, with no external steering wheel position/speed, or vehicle speed inputs even in it's original street car application. It does have an OBD wire for checking codes in it's stock applications(Opel Astra,Mercedes A-class, etc.). It monitors pump speed, fluid temp, pressure and demand internally. Also, it has a built in long wiring harness that was originally part of the vehicle harness(no connectors). It has the capability of external control/interface through stability control system with 2 extra data lines, but this is not used in most stock applications. When the extra +12v wire is connected to the ignition on circuit in parralel, the internal controller reverts to standalone internal control mode. When started, it spools up to max speed for an instant, then goes down to idle speed, waiting for demand.

In the US, look for a Saturn Astra pump. I found one on Ebay for ~$70. They can be found for around $150-250 used normally, or $600-900 new or rebuilt. There are some Porsche tuner types selling premade kits($$$$$) for late model Porsches, but with some decent fabrication skills, and maybe some hoses custom made by a hydraulics shop, it should be no problem installing it on any car for a few hundred bucks.

randomuser

thanks everyone for these ideas and tips re electric steering --

i accessed service manuals for mr2 in order to check output pressure of pump if possible.
both the 95 and the 02 pumps are "set" to output at 711 psi minimum with the steering pump pressure gauge outlet valve shutoff., engine idling, and speed=0.

so, does this not mean that the max output pressure low tolerance from toyota is 711 psi ?
in other words, does the shutoff valve ( when shut) not simulate the steering rack at max load ?

this seems low when bearing in mind that my civic pump specs are 1138-1280psi under the same conditions.

what am i missing here ?

thanks

randomuser

nevermind on the 93-95 ps pump pressure since it is apparently adjustable, but
is the newer model pressure output adjustable as well ? and, does anyone know max. pressure of 93-95 pump. i read 2000psi, but i wonder if that wasnt derived from lower body region.

i guess that screw adjusts the flow control valve relief pressure and is set to the 711 psi level at the factory.

essex

Does anyone know the weight of the MRS pump or the Astra pump? Is this setup heavier than stock?

JV3

have you ever got an answer to this? Did you solve it? I am about to do the same thing. I am wondering if, even using the fuse box, if you still have to run a wire to the ignition switch like it shows in the original diagram.

zangxuma

i love a car too without power steering once the car is rolling

maxogsr

I m done with the plumbing of this conversion with the mrs 2001 pump. Now I need to do the wiring. I m gonna use the bosch type relay but wiring is not my thing and relay is even worst... I need to know witch wire connect on witch leg of the relay.

Here a shema...https://www.servocity.com/Relay_Manual.pdf

Can someone help me with this? I would really appreciated!