So today I got the zero rate springs and perches and did I install them correctly? Remember that these shock mount inverted.

 

I don't have what you have, but that looks upsidedown to me.
Isn't the low rate spring supposed to be on top?

$.02

 

In the vise is the bottom mount. This shock runs inverted. The zero rate spring is on the bottom and per the GCR must be fully compressed with the car on the ground. So I assumed this is right???


Modified by VTECAcuraGSR at 6:54 PM 3/31/2006

 

Mine are on top. (not that I am the guru)

 

its irrelevant when the car is on the ground but its better to have them on top to prevent anything bad from happening around the shaft.

 

Here is what the GCR says...

"Springs of any origin may be used, provided they are of
the same number and type as originally fitted, i.e., coil,
leaf, torsion bar, and that they shall be installed in the
original location using the original system of attachment.
The joining of two or more coil springs by any means is
prohibited. The use of tender springs (designed to capture
the spring within the perches at full droop) are permitted
provided the tender springs are completely compressed
when the car is at static ride height. Shackles or spacers
may be used to adjust leaf spring ride height. Spacers,
including threaded units with adjustable spring seats,
may be used with coil springs."

The tender springs will not be compressed if on top or am I missing something?

 

They're going to be compressed wherever they are, as long as they're not still in the box. I think you should try welding them into the middle of the big springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECAcuraGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the vise is the bottom mount. This shock runs inverted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Right. I knew that, but typically (from what I've seen anyway) the low rate spring is on top. Weather or not (in the top configuration) the low rate spring is compressed at ride height is something I think that needs to be measured with the car on the ground.

$.02

 

I just got it, you are right John.... The top perch is holding the weight not the bottom!

 

doesn't really matter.

 

is that black sleeve the same Dia as the threaded sleeve doesn't look like enough travel before they make contact

 

California Dude - You are right. I just flipped it around the way it is suppose to be.. (Thanks guys) and I can't use those Hyperion coil collars. They are 2.5" and hit the threaded coil over collar on the shock. Woohoo! $100 in returns to Pegasus. I will need to safety wire the shocks together somehow.

 

I also think they should be on top. Since their purpose is to keep the spring seated during full droop, you'd want them at the top, since full droop occurs rapidly on the track when a corner unloads. I think that having the helper at the top would allow it to function more effectively than if it were at the bottom, because if it were at the bottom then the inertia of the main coil might compress it when the corner droops, while if it were at the top, the only time the helper would be compressed is under the weight of the car.

 

I would concur that it technically doesn't matter whether the zero rate spring is on the top or bottom so it should be placed in th location that help keep things aligned best and risks the least trouble. I would generally suggest that it go on the shock body end for centering rather than the shock rod end as there would be more potential misalignment risk.

I have always been perplexed by the centering spacer systems when used with zero rate springs because they can make contact with the spring seats or threaded sleeves sometimes before they spring itself carries the loading. This wouldn't be a problem if the lower rate spring had enough length when collapsed to allow the contact but the zero rate (at least Hypercoils) flattens down really short and the spacers and spring perches car hit. I made a centering ring for mine out of a $1 piece of PVC from Lowes and it has worked quite well for years. The two spring tails sit directly on each other with no piece between them but I have not found a problem with that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I made a centering ring for mine out of a $1 piece of PVC from Lowes and it has worked quite well for years. The two spring tails sit directly on each other with no piece between them but I have not found a problem with that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would imagine the piece of PVC only has to be slightly longer than the helper-spring at full extension correct?

Am I also correct in thinking that would only work if your helper is on the bottom (closest to the ground) since gravity is what keeps the PVC next to helper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would imagine the piece of PVC only has to be slightly longer than the helper-spring at full extension correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't even have to be as long as the unladen helper spring, just a tick longer than the max length it gets to when the shock is fully extended.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Am I also correct in thinking that would only work if your helper is on the bottom (closest to the ground) since gravity is what keeps the PVC next to helper</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ah, maybe you are not familiar with the gravity defying properties of duct tape, yellow being my preferred color. Remember that I am using $1 worth of PVC from a home supply store so I have already proven that I value function over pride in this case.

 

for which car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Lee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have always been perplexed by the centering spacer systems when used with zero rate springs because they can make contact with the spring seats or threaded sleeves sometimes before they spring itself carries the loading.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea. The "kit" I ordered from GC is a perfect example. All parts from GC and it I still had to hack it up so there was no chance of contact when the zero-rate spring was at coil bind.