and it continues...
put my 'new' shocks in today and find:
one shock blown
front springs too long
rear shocks 'might' be touching the swaybar
DAMIT why is my car the only one thats retarted
one shock blown
front springs too long
rear shocks 'might' be touching the swaybar
DAMIT why is my car the only one thats retarted
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put my 'new' shocks in today and find:
one shock blown
front springs too long
rear shocks 'might' be touching the swaybar
DAMIT why is my car the only one thats retarted
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LMFAO!!!!!
one shock blown
front springs too long
rear shocks 'might' be touching the swaybar
DAMIT why is my car the only one thats retarted
</TD></TR></TABLE>LMFAO!!!!!
There are a lot of retarded cars out there.
When I got my custom Koni suspension last year, the springs rubbed against the tires so I had to shorter springs. I then learned that the top mounting point for the suspension just wouldn't work. Called a bunch of places but no one had anything that would do the job. I was exteremly lucky and between a friend and someone he knew, was able to make some custom parts. These were not easy to make.
Ah, the joys of building a racecar!
When I got my custom Koni suspension last year, the springs rubbed against the tires so I had to shorter springs. I then learned that the top mounting point for the suspension just wouldn't work. Called a bunch of places but no one had anything that would do the job. I was exteremly lucky and between a friend and someone he knew, was able to make some custom parts. These were not easy to make. Ah, the joys of building a racecar!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isn't your EF the one that weighs A LOT?
yes, my EF is a heavy lady
The sway bar and rear shock thing, make sure the sway bar is centered.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is. it looks to be rreeall close on both sides. i gotta get the rear ride height where i want it and then take another look. but i doubt its gonna make a differance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redcivic92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spencer, get that car up and running mang. Oldt is trying to get me to run H1 in my H2 civic because there aren't enough H2 guys around yet. I'm gonna get killed by those guys. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh, no worries. it WILL be ready to go come hell or high water
shock is comming out tonight and going to buddyclub usa tomorrow. hopefully i found some new front springs too. so that'll be good. ill probably end up bending the rear bar -OR- taking the bar out and dumping more spring back there.
question for the RR guys. any ideas for what to use for a door pannel besides aluminum? something i can get at lowes racing supply or home depot performance?
yes, my EF is a heavy lady
The sway bar and rear shock thing, make sure the sway bar is centered.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is. it looks to be rreeall close on both sides. i gotta get the rear ride height where i want it and then take another look. but i doubt its gonna make a differance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redcivic92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spencer, get that car up and running mang. Oldt is trying to get me to run H1 in my H2 civic because there aren't enough H2 guys around yet. I'm gonna get killed by those guys. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh, no worries. it WILL be ready to go come hell or high water
shock is comming out tonight and going to buddyclub usa tomorrow. hopefully i found some new front springs too. so that'll be good. ill probably end up bending the rear bar -OR- taking the bar out and dumping more spring back there.
question for the RR guys. any ideas for what to use for a door pannel besides aluminum? something i can get at lowes racing supply or home depot performance?
H2 requires doorpanels? That's just gonna make your EF, which weighs A LOT, MORE A LOT.
Spence, check the rules. I coulda sworn you can remove inner door panels (both metal skin and plastic panels).
Spence, check the rules. I coulda sworn you can remove inner door panels (both metal skin and plastic panels).
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i can if i remove the glass. since im still driving it to events/dont have an inclosed trailor, im keeping the glass. so i need something to keep the glass in the door if it shatters.
Make something to keep the glass up while driving to the event, then remove the glass when you get there. That's what I do, but I tow the car on an open deck trailer. If you want to drive with the window down, just don't install that window for the drive home.
I can post pictures of what I did to hold the window in place if you like.
I can post pictures of what I did to hold the window in place if you like.
ok, so apparently all i have to cover are the existing holes in the door. not sure if that makes life easier, but its easier to find that much material than to score an entire sheet. now, if only i could open the door enouch to work on them in the garage.....
no front shocks+snow+tight garage=door project back burnered. i guess hatch gutting is on the agenda for this weekend.
no front shocks+snow+tight garage=door project back burnered. i guess hatch gutting is on the agenda for this weekend.
man, i have two spare sheets of metal here at work with your name on it!!! if only you were closer you could have them. they are like 18 gauge steel though, not aluminum.
I was just thinking about this the other day. As i am planning on something in the near future. What do you think the chances or tracking down some ABS sheets are? I know in the Audio world I see 12x12's all the time. But if I could track down larger ones it would work perfectly.
while you guys are on-topic about covering the door holes. I was just wondering how the guaging works for the sheet metal? If I'm looking for .060" sheet, what gauge would that be?
I've seen that site but that's way too expensive. It'll cost $125 w/o shipping for the custom cut pieces to cover the doors exactly. $125 just for a piece of sheet metal or two? ouch.
I have found a few places that offer ABS for sheets large enough that are in the 30 dollar range. I think that would be very light and easy to work with, is this just a bad idea or is there anyone utilizing a similar setup?
well, if i remember correctly and understand the rules correctly, the plastic sheel inside the door is all you need. so i'm gonna be doing something along those lines
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Still have those rear shocks
</TD></TR></TABLE>
rears are fine. its the front thats busted. but i might pick them up as spares.
</TD></TR></TABLE>rears are fine. its the front thats busted. but i might pick them up as spares.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
rears are fine. its the front thats busted. but i might pick them up as spares.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on me for reading comprehension. Sorry bud, wish I could help you there but Josh already bought my fronts.
rears are fine. its the front thats busted. but i might pick them up as spares.</TD></TR></TABLE>
on me for reading comprehension. Sorry bud, wish I could help you there but Josh already bought my fronts.




