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and it continues...

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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 06:05 PM
  #1  
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Default and it continues...

put my 'new' shocks in today and find:
one shock blown
front springs too long
rear shocks 'might' be touching the swaybar

DAMIT why is my car the only one thats retarted
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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Default Re: and it continues... (Lo-Buck EF)

isn't your EF the one that weighs A LOT?


The sway bar and rear shock thing, make sure the sway bar is centered.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 06:38 PM
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Spencer, get that car up and running mang. Oldt is trying to get me to run H1 in my H2 civic because there aren't enough H2 guys around yet. I'm gonna get killed by those guys.
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 08:18 PM
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Default Re: and it continues... (Lo-Buck EF)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put my 'new' shocks in today and find:
one shock blown
front springs too long
rear shocks 'might' be touching the swaybar

DAMIT why is my car the only one thats retarted </TD></TR></TABLE>

LMFAO!!!!!
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 04:00 AM
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There are a lot of retarded cars out there. When I got my custom Koni suspension last year, the springs rubbed against the tires so I had to shorter springs. I then learned that the top mounting point for the suspension just wouldn't work. Called a bunch of places but no one had anything that would do the job. I was exteremly lucky and between a friend and someone he knew, was able to make some custom parts. These were not easy to make.

Ah, the joys of building a racecar!
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 04:14 AM
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Default Re: and it continues... (slammed_93_hatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isn't your EF the one that weighs A LOT?

yes, my EF is a heavy lady
The sway bar and rear shock thing, make sure the sway bar is centered.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is. it looks to be rreeall close on both sides. i gotta get the rear ride height where i want it and then take another look. but i doubt its gonna make a differance.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redcivic92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spencer, get that car up and running mang. Oldt is trying to get me to run H1 in my H2 civic because there aren't enough H2 guys around yet. I'm gonna get killed by those guys. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh, no worries. it WILL be ready to go come hell or high water

shock is comming out tonight and going to buddyclub usa tomorrow. hopefully i found some new front springs too. so that'll be good. ill probably end up bending the rear bar -OR- taking the bar out and dumping more spring back there.

question for the RR guys. any ideas for what to use for a door pannel besides aluminum? something i can get at lowes racing supply or home depot performance?
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 04:51 AM
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Default Re: and it continues... (Lo-Buck EF)

H2 requires doorpanels? That's just gonna make your EF, which weighs A LOT, MORE A LOT. Spence, check the rules. I coulda sworn you can remove inner door panels (both metal skin and plastic panels).
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 05:29 AM
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Default Re: and it continues... (Another Drew)

i can if i remove the glass. since im still driving it to events/dont have an inclosed trailor, im keeping the glass. so i need something to keep the glass in the door if it shatters.
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 06:04 AM
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Make something to keep the glass up while driving to the event, then remove the glass when you get there. That's what I do, but I tow the car on an open deck trailer. If you want to drive with the window down, just don't install that window for the drive home. I can post pictures of what I did to hold the window in place if you like.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 05:56 AM
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Default Re: (117)

ok, so apparently all i have to cover are the existing holes in the door. not sure if that makes life easier, but its easier to find that much material than to score an entire sheet. now, if only i could open the door enouch to work on them in the garage.....
no front shocks+snow+tight garage=door project back burnered. i guess hatch gutting is on the agenda for this weekend.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 08:54 AM
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Default Re: (Lo-Buck EF)

man, i have two spare sheets of metal here at work with your name on it!!! if only you were closer you could have them. they are like 18 gauge steel though, not aluminum.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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Default Re: (E-AT_me)

thats alittle much. but i've got some ideas floating around my head as to what to use on the door.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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Default Re: (Lo-Buck EF)

I was just thinking about this the other day. As i am planning on something in the near future. What do you think the chances or tracking down some ABS sheets are? I know in the Audio world I see 12x12's all the time. But if I could track down larger ones it would work perfectly.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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Default Re: (PariahBoardshop)

while you guys are on-topic about covering the door holes. I was just wondering how the guaging works for the sheet metal? If I'm looking for .060" sheet, what gauge would that be?
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 12:58 PM
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I bought my aluminum from http://www.onlinemetals.com which was .060" or at least very, very close.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 01:09 PM
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Default Re: (granracing)

I've seen that site but that's way too expensive. It'll cost $125 w/o shipping for the custom cut pieces to cover the doors exactly. $125 just for a piece of sheet metal or two? ouch.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 01:15 PM
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Default Re: (1200 Hobos)

I have found a few places that offer ABS for sheets large enough that are in the 30 dollar range. I think that would be very light and easy to work with, is this just a bad idea or is there anyone utilizing a similar setup?
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 01:31 PM
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Default Re: (PariahBoardshop)

I'm not sure about abs but the only thing I could see going wrong with the plastic is it cracking around the edges where you would drill if the sheet is thin.
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 02:04 PM
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well, if i remember correctly and understand the rules correctly, the plastic sheel inside the door is all you need. so i'm gonna be doing something along those lines
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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Default Re: (Lo-Buck EF)

Still have those rear shocks
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 02:57 PM
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Default Re: (Stinkycheezmonky)

my company buys 4x8 sheets of ABS. wish i were still at work, i'd find the name...
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 11:44 PM
  #22  
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Default Re: (Stinkycheezmonky)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Still have those rear shocks </TD></TR></TABLE>
rears are fine. its the front thats busted. but i might pick them up as spares.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 12:02 AM
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Default Re: (Lo-Buck EF)

rear sus? what do you mean rear sus? never heard of that?

you can blow shocks too?
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 04:56 AM
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Default Re: (Lo-Buck EF)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
rears are fine. its the front thats busted. but i might pick them up as spares.</TD></TR></TABLE>

on me for reading comprehension. Sorry bud, wish I could help you there but Josh already bought my fronts.
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 10:24 AM
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Default Re: (Stinkycheezmonky)

yea. when mine went 'squish' i thought about josh blowing his out when the car fell off the jack
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