okay so i didnt want to post the same topic in two forums, so please check out this thread. thanks
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=108370

 

Im ordering Kosei K-1s for my moped...I mean ITR. They are light and cheap. I hear they cost like $109 for an Accord (4-lug)...I say get em.

 

I have a set of Koseis for my Prelude. They are very light, but very soft. You have to be careful with them! I had a little spec of some sort of scrap metal on the hub, and torquing down the lugs drove the metal into the wheel and ruined it. Make sure they send you metal centering rings also. The older ones came with plastic rings, which melted at track temps. Heh - remember that one Felton?

Matt

 

Who do you have to kill to get the metal centering rings? I have a friend with a K1-equipped STS 200SX SE-R who needs to dump his plastic centering rings, and when he called Tire Rack, he was told they didn't have them. Any idea where I can point him to get a set of the metal rings?

 

I remember! In fact, I think your situation was one of the ones that prompted the creation and availability of the metal rings.

PS- Chris, If Tire Rack doesn't have the metal rings, they should be available directly from Kosei or any Kosei dealer.

Jon
(on my 3rd set of K1's & still love 'em...)

 

TR claims they don't have any metal hubcentric rings

Got the number for a place that does?

Warren

 

Try a local reputable shop that sells custom wheels. Most of these places stock tons of hub rings just for about any wheel/car combo... At least they do around here...

 

Just don't use the rings. You don't need them. They just make putting the wheel on a little easier. I've never even used the centering rings on my car, and they're a LARGE difference (like 8mm) between the hole in the wheel and my hub.

You just have to make sure you torque the lug nuts gently and evenly, and you'll be fine. Once the lug nuts are tight, it's the friction of wheel against the hub that handles vertical loads, and it's tension on the lug nuts that handle cornering loads, so the ring doesn't do anything anyway.

And all that info was based on explanations from an automotive engineering student. His rough calculations determined it'd take something like 30,000 pounds of sheering force (vertical load) to budge an aluminum wheel against a steel hub with 5 lugs at 75 ft-lbs.

-Mike

 

He is right. Honda/Acura wheels are lug centric not hub centric. Positioned by the lugs/nuts not the hub center.

 

>>He is right. Honda/Acura wheels are lug centric not hub centric. Positioned by
>>the lugs/nuts not the hub center.

That's true as long as you use H/A stock wheels or aftermarket wheels that use the same type of nuts. If you use aftermarket wheels that use a flat-bottomed nut rather than H/As round-bottom nut then you do need hub rings to keep the wheel centered.

Regards,
Alan

 

Well, the stock wheels are hubcentric (at least on my integra and NSX). Not to say the lugs don't help, but when you put the wheel on, it fits very firmly on the hub and doesn't move.

Most aftermarket wheels (at least japanese ones), use a cone seat, which as far as I can tell accomplish the same job as the rounded "acorn" seat that the OEM wheels use.

-Mike

 

I stand corrected. I thought that all of the H/A cars used lug centric mounting. Hmm. I didn't think that the K-1 was a true forged wheel. You might also consider the Rota Circuit 8 & Slipstream wheels. They are about 11-12#s in the 15X6.5" size. These are cast but have seemed to hold up pretty well.