*sigh* i cant upgrade my braking system right now as much as it kills me. but i need the money. Is there any way to fix a caliper that has seized onto the rotor? do i need to replace the caliper? (rotor is getting replaced, warped anyway) ill just get some GOOD pads and high temp fluid for now.
TIA - Joe

 

If you can get the caliper off the rotor, couldn't you do a rebuild on it? That oughta be the most economical way.

 

WHat do you mean..
you can't take the caliper off the spindle..
or is the caliper and pads melted to the rotor?

or do you mean the piston on the caliper is stuck..
is so..
rebuild kits are cheap.. but a pain in the ***..

 

the piston is frozen. its not physically melted or damaged but its seized onto the rotor meaning even when no pressure is applied to the brakes its still touching.

Good news: my mom is giving me 250$ twords my brakes

Where can i just get a stock replacment caliper and new front rotors?
thanks everyone. Joe

 

rotors: coletti motorsports

calipers: A&H motorsports (Honda remanufactured)

 

Cool, Thanks
what about a non remanufactured caliper. hehe. i have a little money just not enough to do a full upgrade.
edit:got a website for ethire?


[Modified by KAMiN, 12:39 PM 3/19/2002]

 

I just checked out Majestic Honda...I think they wanted $367 for a new caliper for your EX. A rebuild kit will be substantially cheaper, and unless you make over $100 an hour, it would be most economical to rebuild what you have.

 

Ah, yea. thats damn expensive. http://www.fastbrakes.com/pages/kits/bigfront.htm
with calipers $360.
i might go with that but i dont want the 11" disc. i dont need it.

 

This description here doesn't necessarily indicate a problem. The pad is always in contact with the rotor. The piston does not really retract when your foot is off the brakes, it merely stops applying pressure to the pad and rotor. When jacked up, does the wheel with the "bad" caliper spin freely? Or do you encounter substantial resistance?

Edit: also, with the pad off, have you tried to compress the piston back into the caliper with a caliper compressor or C-clamp?


[Modified by 4doorH22, 4:01 PM 3/19/2002]

 

with the car on jacks there isnt susbstantial resistance but it does not spin as freely at the other wheel. (you can hear the friction)

 

Which end of the car is this caliper on?

B/c compressing the piston is different at each end (C-clamp in front, Lisle brake tool in rear)

 

front passenger side.

 

I don't think I would buy a new stock caliper, then. Get 11" rotors and accord V-6 calipers ($136 ea, from A&H, incl. core charge). Dremel the bracket so the rotor clears and you are good.

Why toss money into something you planned on upgrading?

 

Ok. so im looking at about 300 shipped for the calipers. should i just go with the rotors from fastbrakes.com then? wait, isnt it the same kit that they sell? heres the link again if anyone missed it. http://www.fastbrakes.com/pages/kits/bigfront.htm
11" with calipers for 360. thats what the site says. ill email/call them again tonight. hehe.

 

All I know about his kit is that he is moving away from selling single piston OEM type calipers for Integras, at least.

Strictly Wilwood stuff now.

He still sells rotors. Maybe he has civic stuff still sitting on the shelf. Good luck. Brian should be able to answer questions if he doesn't have the right parts, so you know what to buy.

 

thanks for all the help, ill shoot him an email later tonight.

 

also - if you need a used caliper i can hook you up - shoot me an email

if you have a civic ex with the 10.3" brakes , i should have one here

35 plus 15 to ship to AZ

Jamie@bestforeigncarparts.com

 

Ill let you know.
Thanks