I finished installing an axle and went to reconnect the lower ball joint. When the crown nut got about 1/2 way up the bolt, the ball joint started turning with the nut, so it would no longer tighten. I started loosening and the ball joint held still, so I was able to get the nut off. I repeated that process about 3 times with the same results. Is the ball joint shot? They aren't supposed to rotate like that are they? If I can figure out a way to get the nut on, will it even be wise/safe? Do those ball joints have to be pressed in/out? I just finished putting the damn thing back together, so I'd really hate to have to disassemble the whole suspension on that side again, but if it's not going to be safe then that's what I'll do.

- Scott

 

if you don't have air impact then try loading weight on that wheel with a jack and wood.

 

What i do is tap the lower arm witth a hammer lightly( from underneath) and it will lock in and hold better so you can put the nut back on. Dont hit too hard.

Edo

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D Rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you don't have air impact then try loading weight on that wheel with a jack and wood. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do this or just pull down, or push up on the hub. Somehow put some friction on the balljoint to hold it. You can also clean up the threads with a tap/die set to have the nut slide on and off easier.

 

Get yourself a tap and die set and always clean your nut and stud threads before rebolting that **** together. You will be happy if you do. Use grease and, as a tip to get the balljoint off the arm every time, use teflon tape around the tapered stud like you would when you install your shower head in your bathtub


FYI you may have to hold the balljoint stud with something like vicegrips so that you can run the die over the threaded stud. Be careful not to mess up the tapered shaft with the vicegrips, but if you do, clean it up with a file...

yaya lots of work buts its a clean install every time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HapaHaole &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get yourself a tap and die set and always clean your nut and stud threads before rebolting that **** together. You will be happy if you do. Use grease and, as a tip to get the balljoint off the arm every time, use teflon tape around the tapered stud like you would when you install your shower head in your bathtub


FYI you may have to hold the balljoint stud with something like vicegrips so that you can run the die over the threaded stud. Be careful not to mess up the tapered shaft with the vicegrips, but if you do, clean it up with a file...

yaya lots of work buts its a clean install every time.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Two things about ball joints, one, the handy Honda ball joint separator tool is great and you feel much better by not beating on your upright or LCA to loosen the ball joint tapered shank. Also, if you jack up the LCA so that the ball joint shank has some pressure against the LCA hole, then the ball joint shouldn't rotate unless you somehow mashed the threads. Mashed Threads -&gt; Die like Shawn said.

 

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. I didn't realize that the LCA actually helped hold the joint in place. I'll give the jack and/or hammer tricks a try when I get home. The threads look ok, but I've been putting off getting a tap and die set for too long, so I"ll go pick one of those up tonight and run it over those pieces.

- Scott

 

Yeah, depending on how you pulled that ball joint out of the arm, you may has "mushroomed" the threads, in which case, you need to file them down a little and run a die through them. The nut should thread on pretty effortlessly. It also helps to add some anti-seize on all that stuff so it comes apart easier next time.

 

also i noticed most regular tap and die sets dont heve the right size for this , i bought a 40 pc set and it had 12x1.5 but not the 12x1.25 as needed or was it a 10x1.25 hmmm dont remember

 

i try to keep new castle nuts handy. they always work.

ive had to retap the balljoint and old castle nuts before with success. i was hesitant to use vice grips to hold the balljoint in place around the tapered surface, but it was the only way to secure it while turning the die. left a bit of a gouge, but i just filed it flat and it worked fine.

also, using an impact wrench to get the castle nut back on works too in most cases.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HapaHaole &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as a tip to get the balljoint off the arm every time, use teflon tape around the tapered stud </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good one! I smear it with anti-seize. Balljoints always separate easy now.
Try a new castle nut Scott.
$.02

 

Thanks again for the input. I'm off to HF after work to pick up a tap and die set, a file, a bottle of anti-seize (if they have it), a box of cotter pins, and possibly some new castle nuts. It looks like the size for the lower ball joint is 12x1.25, which won't be included in most kits. Thanks for pointing that out Jimmy. Otherwise, I might not have looked it up before I went. The tie rod end is 10x1.25, which I believe is more common in the kits, but I'll check for sure.

- Scott

 

The tie rod and upper ball joint threads are 10x1.25 on 3rd gen Integras, which is a pretty handy size to have for a Honda. I believe the lower ball joint is 12x1.25

 

Damn. Wouldn't you know I went 3 places and none of them had neither a tap nor die in 12x1.25. I got a kit that had most of the standard metric sizes, but that one is not in it. Anyway, I decided to take the other advice and jack up the LCA on a block of wood. That didn't do it. Then I took Edo's advice and knocked gently with a hammer. That seemed to do it. HF cordless impact gun FTW. My air powered gun is a sissy, but the cordless took care of it once the LCA was more snug. I think the anti-seize helped also. Anyway, I definitely learned something here and hopefully this thread will help someone else down the road if they bother to search.

- Scott

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlyZlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn. Wouldn't you know I went 3 places and none of them had neither a tap nor die in 12x1.25. I got a kit that had most of the standard metric sizes, but that one is not in it. Anyway, I decided to take the other advice and jack up the LCA on a block of wood. That didn't do it. Then I took Edo's advice and knocked gently with a hammer. That seemed to do it. HF cordless impact gun FTW. My air powered gun is a sissy, but the cordless took care of it once the LCA was more snug. I think the anti-seize helped also. Anyway, I definitely learned something here and hopefully this thread will help someone else down the road if they bother to search.

- Scott</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good job Scott you are almost ready to cross the state line.

Edo

 

When you are splitting the balljoint leave the castle nut on - loosen it a few turns, split the balljoint out of the lca, then remove the nut. Keeps the threads from getting messed up.

I believe I bought a 12x1.25 tap online - sears doesnt carry them unless you buy a $90 set.

 

I'm sure this has been answered many times elsewhere, but where do you get a ball joint splitter like that? I've seen it in the Honda manual, but never in a store.

 

Autozone, $8. Its a 'u' with a bolt through the middle.

 

For some reason, I thought I had seen it in this thread, but it was on the RAxles website. I meant this type of splitter since it looks like it could work on the upper ball joint a lot better.

 

That's the OEM honda tool - I think 'Falcom' is the company that makes it. Its expensive, and it works. But so does the $8 tool.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlyZlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn. Wouldn't you know I went 3 places and none of them had neither a tap nor die in 12x1.25. </TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW, that sound familiar. If you want, I'll stop by that place again and pick one up for you and bring it to Cali.

Glad to hear you joints are back in place. If only I could be so lucky.

Erik

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlyZlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn. Wouldn't you know I went 3 places and none of them had neither a tap nor die in 12x1.25.</TD></TR></TABLE>

try to get new castle nuts next time youre at the dealer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the OEM honda tool - I think 'Falcom' is the company that makes it. Its expensive, and it works. But so does the $8 tool.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I fubared a couple balljoints with one of those $8 tools. The #3 hammer gets them everytime

 

so have i.

3lbs sledge is much more convenient anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokin rubber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fubared a couple balljoints with one of those $8 tools. </TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as you leave the castle nut on and position the tool properly you wont...