ok thats weird, i let it out to dry for about 30 mins after 3 coats of primer, sanded it down with 2000 grit, and now it kind of looks like the same as it did before but with just light scuff lines, is that correct?

why cant i just primer it again then spray the black color on?


Modified by EvenStar at 7:33 PM 9/3/2008

 

whole thing

 

if it's going to be painted, yes, the whole thing will need to be sanded eventually...whether with a scuff pad or some 320, etc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mike Ockhurts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whole thing</TD></TR></TABLE>


whole thing = paint stick to all

 

so how am i suppose to know when the sanding job is ready for primer?

sorry this is my first time

 

When the whole thing is dull or scuffed it is ready.

 

alright, so after that apply 2-3 coats of primer, then sand it down again with whatever grit i have correct? then apply the color spray?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EvenStar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alright, so after that apply 2-3 coats of primer, then sand it down again with whatever grit i have correct? then apply the color spray?</TD></TR></TABLE>

seriously??? Watch a youtube video on painting or pay someone to do it

 

scuff it again after primer yes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

seriously??? Watch a youtube video on painting or pay someone to do it</TD></TR></TABLE>


Someone always has to respond like this at least once in a request thread @H-T.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Gary- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Someone always has to respond like this at least once in a request thread @H-T.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you not realize how many hundreds of posts/links/pictures/videos there are of people painting parts??

I haven't been a member as long as most, but it gets tiring seeing the same threads pop up that could easily be avoided by a simple google search.

 

I would recommend Wet-sanding with 400 before primer.

 

ok thats weird, i let it out to dry for about 30 mins after 3 coats of primer, sanded it down with 2000 grit, and now it kind of looks like the same as it did before but with just light scuff lines, is that correct?

why cant i just primer it again then spray the black color on?

 

What are you painting?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rock Meathammer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you painting?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

my OEM lip kit

i remember my friend sprayed his car down with primer, sanded it down, primed it again, and applied the color coat on top. ill assume that the material is just different since lip kits are plastic.

 

spray the primer and sand it with some fine grit paper. When you run your hand over it, it should feel smooth. When the entire part is smooth, but there is still and even layer of primer you are good to go. If you spray primer and run your hand over it after it dries it should feel kind of rough. You dont want that and that's why you sand it smooth.

 

You need 50 grit!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Patrick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need 50 grit! </TD></TR></TABLE>

dont they use that grit on the top of skateboards.

 

200-300 grit is what you need for this stage, not 2000.

Reported for a move to paint/body for more knowledgeable answers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Leo C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200-300 grit is what you need for this stage, not 2000.

Reported for a move to paint/body for more knowledgeable answers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry about that, i needed quick replies thats why.

anyways, finally finished them.. cant wait to put on the top clear coat

 

I think you need to follow the manufacturers instructions when preparing a surface for basecoat.

As for getting a surface ready for primer, you should.....follow the manufacturers tech sheet. it's got all the answers right there.

As for getting a surface flat.... you can use 120, 220, then wet 300 or 400.

Anything else higher, you're pretty much wasting your time, because it won't be rough enough to block down the imperfections.